Municipality in Andalusia, Spain
Photo: ButteBag, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Compact and walkable, the small city of Úbeda can be found just off the main Andalusian tourist trail at the centre of Spain's Jaén province. As a refreshing change, Moorish heritage is not the main draw here; it's the fantastic collection of Italian-inspired Renaissance era palaces and churches.
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The church of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares de Úbeda sits on a sacred place, built atop the remains of a mosque destroyed during the conquest of the city in 1233. The oldest parts of the church were built around 1259, but visitors mostly enjoy all the remains and additions of various styles the site has acquired over the years. The cloister, added towards the end of the 15th century, is a particular favourite. The church was badly damaged in the Spanish Civil War, waiting until 1983 to undergo a 28-year restoration.
Circling the city, these walls were first built around the 10th century, and have been extensively modified over the years. Various doors and watchtowers puncture the barricades and peak out atop the bulwarks. The scenic loop in the southeastern quadrant of the city affords particularly spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and its olive-laden hills.
Palacio de las Cadenas
Considered to be one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture in Spain, the palace was built between 1546 and 1565. Architect Andrés de Vandelvira designed this palace as a Roman house, creating its entire structure around a large courtyard with a fountain in its center. The main facade is very well proportioned and quite beautiful. This has been Úbeda's town hall since at least 1850.
One of the oldest in Úbeda, this church is believed to have been built some time during the 13th century. Its location in a central square and its proximity to the old town hall, made it the perfect choice for city council meetings throughout the 15th century. In the early 16th century, the building was embellished with Renaissance details under Alonso Suárez de la Fuente, who carried out extensive renovations and enlargements.
Built between 1536-1559 under the patronage of Francisco de los Cobos. It was conceived as a funerary monument, and was re-envisioned while under construction to elevate the patron's fame, fortune, and personal glory. The complex sculptural decoration of both the main facade and interior contrast boldly with the austerity of the Palacio de Molina, on display just down the road. The chapel's grandiose circular centralized crypt is meant to expresses a unity with, and the infinite essence of, God.
This massive space was built around 1562-1575, and spans an entire city block. It's since been completely renovated and now houses a massive event space as well as a library. Work by new and established artists adorns the walls and rotates often. Check their calendar for information about upcoming live performances.
If Cheers was a Churro café and not a bar, it'd be this place. Locals pop in and order their usual. After catching up on the newest gossip, they plunk a few coins down on the counter and bid a good day to all.
The wines and olive oils here are top notch. The waitstaff is accustomed to providing recommendations for local and foregin palates alike.
Outstanding traditional Spanish cuisine (and wines!) with a nice view of the Plaza and nearby 16th century church. When it gets busy, the waitstaff really hustles.
Clubby vibe, open late, with hookahs available on the outdoor patio.
Relatively pricy, but not without reason. This is a stunningly restored and updated 16th-century palace. Near everything.
By bus
Dozens of ALSA buses shuttle back and forth to nearby Baeza (€2, 15 min) and Jaén (€6, 1 hr) daily, while there are also frequent connections with Granada (€8-13, 2½ hr) and other points to the south.
By car
The A-32 from Linares, and the A-316 from Jaén will both run you into town. If you're headed instead from far away Albacete, the N-322 will be the road for you.
Seeing the sights in town is an activity best undertaken on foot. The bus station is about a mile from the center; however, so consider cabbing it to your hotel when you first arrive.
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