Belgrade

Built around 1575 when Islam was the majority religion, it's now the only mosque in Belgrade. Bajrakli means "with flag" - the muwaqqit calculated the exact time of Islamic observances and hoisted a flag to advise the other city mosques, whereupon each muezzin called from their minaret to those within earshot. It's been smashed up several times, most recently in 2004 during the Kosovo conflict, but restored.

Chocolate's role in the story of the city, and you get to make your own.

Gadgets, transport and machinery down the ages.

This Orthodox church was completed in 1929, replacing that of 1877. It has notable relics and frescoes.

Founded in 1844, it has more than 400,000 items on 3 floors. It's organised into Paleolithic, Ancient History, Middle Ages and Modern.

The south side of the National Museum is the city's main plaza. The equestrian statue is of Prince Mihailo Obrenović (1823-1868), who negotiated the withdrawal of Ottoman troops from Belgrade. The city Cultural Centre also fronts onto the square. In spite of the imposing buildings, it's a drab concrete expanse thronged with traffic along Francuska.

Sephardic Jews settled in Belgrade from the 16th century, as the Ottomans welcomed those fleeing Spanish persecution. The Ashkenazis arrived in numbers from the 19th century, escaping Tsarist Russia, and completed this synagogue in 1924. It's still active, but now closed to visitors because of the risk of attack. (It's the same story with the Jewish Museum at Kralja Petra 71a.)

Family-friendly place with all the fairground usuals: distorting mirrors, Ames Room, and so on.

This was the residence of the Obrenović and Karađorđević princely dynasties from 1884 until 1922. It now houses Belgrade City Assembly, no visits except on business.

Museum in the home of Nobel laureate Ivo Andric (1892-1975).

Huge collection of materials about the Serbian nation from ancient times to the present. In the coming years it's intended to move to new premises on the site of the former railway station.

Grand neo-baroque legislative palace, built 1907-36.

Large Serbian Orthodox church built 1931-40 in Serbo-Byzantine style. Within are the tombs of King Stefan Uroš IV Dušan (1308-55), and of King Aleksandar I Obrenović (1876-1903) and his Queen Draga Mašin.

Nikola Tesla (Никола Тесла, 1856-1943) made huge contributions to electric engineering, pioneering alternating current (enabling long-distance high-energy transfer), radio (underpinning today's mobile comms) and AC motors as used in household and office machinery. Half of this small museum is dedicated to Tesla's personal effects, while the other half contains models of his inventions. English-speaking tours start at the full hour and include demonstrations. Long lines build up at peak hours.

The largest church in Serbia and one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, under construction since 1935 and still not entirely finished. It's described as a temple (Hram) to distinguish it from the smaller St Sava Church (Tsrkva) adjacent. The crypt (downstairs from the main entrance) is an extensive, bright and polished area with walls covered with modern iconography, so it looks more like a metro interchange for Orthodox saints than a religious building. Services are held regularly here and in the Church, which you can also visit.

Small Orthodox church built in 1933, in simple Serbian-Byzantine style. It's adorned with frescoes and mosaics, and has a rich collection of relics.

Orthodox monastery church built in 1935 in the Serbian-Byzantine style.

This is in 3 buildings. Old Museum is a general display of the history and culture of the former Yugoslavia. 25 May Museum is an oh-so-Sixties building named for the official birthdate of Josip Broz Tito (1892-1980). It displays presents given to him during his 27-year presidency: he amassed quite a collection of youth relay batons. House of Flowers is his mausoleum.

West African contemporary art.

Residence of the royal family of Serbia. You can only visit on a guided tour (in English or Serbian), booked through the Tourist Information Offices. The tour takes in the White Palace, with a large art collection.

This operated from July 1941 to October 1944 under Gestapo leadership; at least 3849 perished here. It's now a museum.

Built on its present site from 1600, the monastery's main structure is the Church of Archangel Michael. The other churches are modern.

A large tell, a 10 m hillock of prehistoric settlements, mostly Neolithic. At weekends there are guided tours through the site.

Large museum of Yugoslav, Serbian and international art of the 20th century, in a striking modern building.

Closed for rebuilding until 2027. The main collection is in a striking geodesic glass building, with additional aircraft displayed on the surrounding grounds. The museum has over 200 aircraft flown by the Serbian and Yugoslav Air Forces, aero clubs and private & commercial aviation, from gliders to helicopters to jet fighters. There are a number of rare aircraft and other aviation equipment. The museum also displays relics of US and NATO aircraft "donated" during the 1990s Balkans conflicts, including wreckage from a US F-117 Nighthawk.

A cultural centre built on the former site of the Chinese embassy to Yugoslavia, which was bombed by NATO forces in a so-called miscalculated operation in 1999. There is a plaque commemorating the Chinese journalists who died in the bombing.

Four small telescopes enable daytime viewing of the city. On F Sa evenings from 20:30 if the sky is clear you can use the 110/2050 mm refractor and 200/2000 mm reflector for night viewing, with commentary and guidance from staff. The regular observatory is 3 km southeast in Zvezdara Park, and occasionally has guided tours.

This puts on opera, ballet and theatre. The main hall is worth looking in at, decorated with gilt and artwork.