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Northern Senegal, Senegal
Photo: Radosław Botev, Attribution via Wikimedia Commons
Langue de Barbarie National Park is south of the city of Saint-Louis, in Northern Senegal.
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Boat tours leave from the Langue de Barbarie National Park headquarters on demand throughout the day from 9AM to 4PM The pirogue tours last approximately 1 ½ to 2 hours and visits either the “Bird Island” or the lighthouse at Pilote, visitors choice. Pirogues can also be hired to transport you back to St. Louis or to one of the campements on the Langue de Barbarie north of the town of Pilote, if you wish to do this you will have to discuss a price.
Each month the Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie offers visitors a special treat.Professional bird counts are held on the 24th and 28th of each month, this offers visitors a unique opportunity to help with the count. On the 24th a walking tour leaves from the Héron Cendré Restaurant. Visitors can walk along with an écogarde and help spot water birds. Several other species of birds can also be seen during the count. Space is limited to 4 people.
On the 28th of each month the écogardes count the bird species from the Zebrabar to the old mouth of the Senegal River. This unique opportunity allows visitors to experience the full length of the Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie. Gulls, terns, herons, sandpipers, plovers, pelicans and osprey are commonly seen.
A bike rental brochure is available which points out some interesting sites in the area and gives you a little information on each of them.
A small tidal wetland in the shape of a crescent moon constitutes the eastern limit of the park. It is a great place to see shorebirds and many other species of migratory birds.
Discover the traditions of the Maures with a visit to the small village of Dara Salam situated about 7 km (4½ miles) south of Mouït. This is the village of Nogoye Fall. She would be happy to show you her village. Dine with a local family and stay for tea “attaya” under a Moroccan tent or talk with Noguaye to take a camel back ride. If you need assistance with communication the écogardes at the park can help.
Visit the ruins of Balacoss a military fort built in the 1920 during French colonial rule to help control access to the Senegal River and the capital of St. Louis. It is situated on a large sand dune which offers an extraordinary view of the river.
Located near the village of Gouye Ren on the main road through Gandiol, the cannon was installed as part of Fort Balacoss in 1920. It was positioned at this strategic point to protect the former mouth of the Senegal River from invasion by sea during French colonial rule.
Gandiol is dotted with small salt ponds. These rich and inexhaustible ponds fill with water each year during the rainy season then dry up leaving behind a crust of valuable salt which is then extracted, treated and sold by the people in the surrounding villages. One can see piles and piles of salt covered with whatever is handy lining the edges of each of the ponds. The period of extraction is from January to May and is a major source of income.
Enjoy a great view of the “Birds Reproduction Islandˮ from the village of Moumbaye. This observation site offers a place to rest after your journey as well as a place to purchase a refreshing beverage.
Gandiol is the onion capital of Senegal. The onion fields can be found tucked between the sand dunes where the soil is perfect for raising the vegetable. Carrots, peanuts, parsnip, tomatoes and other vegetables are also grown throughout the region.
Visitors can climb to the top of the 25 m tall Gandiol Lighthouse. Once used by foreign vessels to navigate the Senegal River the lighthouse continues to be maintained for the local fishermen and lighthouse lovers.
Found in the center of Tassinère, the Petit Musée is a charming little museum featuring the history of local art. Local art is sold in a small shop associated with the museum. CFA 500 entrance fee.
The mangroves offer nature lovers and photographers a unique experience to see many bird and animal species unique to the habitat. Found throughout the region, the mangroves are a great place to visit and explore.
The 750 ha (1,900 acre) Reserve of Guembeul is home to scimitar-horned oryx, addax, Saharawi dorcas gazelle, and gazelle dama mohor. At one time common throughout the country, in the early 1900s, hunting or starvation wiped out the local populations. Efforts to bring them back have paid off. Partnerships with Spain, Israel, and Canada have allowed these animals to return to their native home. Guembeul is also home to the African spurred tortoise, the largest tortoise in Africa, red monkeys, monitor lizards, over 190 species of birds and many other species of wild animals. Fees: CFA 1,000 park entrance per person and CFA 3,000-5,000 for a guide per group.
The Héron Cendré restaurant is run by the park guides. It is not part of the park, nor does it get any funding from the park. These local women will be happy to share their culture with you through local foods. The restaurant prepares one local meal per day, if you would like to call ahead you can request the type of meal you would like to try. Senegalese dishes take a long time to prepare so please be patient. It is difficult when a person simply shows up to whip something together quickly because there is no refrigeration on site and everything has to be purchased fresh at the morning market. It is best to arrive in the morning and order your lunch before you leave for the boat tour, it should be nearly finished by the time you get back. If that isn’t possible please call ahead and specify the time you would like to eat. Breakfast and dinner can also be prepared on demand. Regular operating hours for the restaurant are from 9AM to 5PM
Owned and operated by Ursula and Martin Dürig, a Swiss couple. 18 km south of St. Louis, this is the largest campement in the area and is popular with overland travelers. It is located on an island on the river front. There is a tall observation tower so you can get the lay of the land. They have many different choices of accommodations ranging from very basic to luxurious depending on your budget. The campement is run entirely by solar power and gas. There is a small playground for children (be sure to supervise your children as some of the equipment can be dangerous). Guests are also invited to use the canoe, kayaks, or wind surfing equipment for no charge. There is a bar and restaurant associated with the campement. They have the largest capacity of any campements in the region with many different choices: Camping, Mauritanian tent with bunk beds, small hut with beds only, and bungalows.
Open from November to May. The Teranga is a family-run campement (hotel) run by the Berraz family. Jean-Pierre and Josette and their son Theirry and his wife Samantha. This beautiful little campement is located 15km south of St. Louis near the village of Tessinére. Once in the area you can simply follow the signs to find it. There are four bungalows available for 2-3 people each and a large tent available for rent as well if you are looking for something a little more authentic. The campement has a small bar shaped like a mini car (common public transportation throughout Senegal, it looks like a large van and usually has young men hanging off the back), restaurant, pool, souvenir boutique, 4X4 rentals, and several excursions. They also have pick up and drop off services to the airport in Dakar, for prices and more information see their website. Thierry speaks a little English but no one else at the campement does, so bring your French dictionary and a bottle of mosquito spray (they can be pesky around sunset). Also if you are taking public transportation such as taxis make sure that they know to go to Teranga near Gandiol, Tessinére not the one on Hydrobase. That is a common problem and you should be aware.
The Niokobokk is managed and owned by Isabelle et Didier Bouilly. This quaint little bed and breakfast is located on the Senegal River 16 km south of St. Louis. The Niokobokk is an eco-lodge and is run entirely on solar power. It faces the Senegal River and from the roof you can see the river, the ocean and the canal through the Langue de Barbarie which was dug in 2003 to stop the flooding of St. Louis. It has grown from just 10 m wide to almost 1 km in size. The rooms are beautiful and comfortable. A pool is available for guests to use. The inn is located about 2 km north of the Lighthouse in Pilote. It is the only building in site. It is kid friendly with a swing set out front and babysitting services are available. The owners speak both French and English. Meals can be purchased at the inn for a reasonable fee. If you are traveling by public transportation around Senegal it would be best to have your meals at the hotel as it would be difficult to find other restaurants in the area. They can be found but they are 2-3 km or a boat ride away. This is a small bed and breakfast type inn. The capacity is 6-10 people.
WiFi from 19:00-24:00. Electricity 18:00-24:00.
The campground is owned and operated by the écogarde of the Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie. This small campground is very basic and perfect for those traveling on a budget. A tent is not necessary because you can rent them from the park. There is a small bathroom with a western style toilet and shower. You will need to provide your own toilet paper and soap. Grills and a fire ring are available for use and you can probably find someone in the area to purchase wood from. There are several boutiques in town where you can purchase snacks and supplies or you can order all you meals from the Héron Cendré Restaurant or visit one of the local campements for meals. The écogardes speak very little English so you may want to have your French dictionary handy.
By car
Rent a car: Prices vary according to the company and the car.
By bus
Sept-place (station wagon that transports up to 7 people) from Gare Pompier in Dakar to St. Louis (tourists on a budget): price of the sept-place: CFA 4,500/passenger, CFA 250-1,000 max.
By taxi
Louis or Mouit: You should be able to get a personal taxi from the airport to St. Louis or Mouit for around CFA 60,000 depending on the condition of the taxi and negotiation skills.
Travel within the region of Gandiol
You can get from one village to another by taking a bush taxi, mini car, a horse-drawn cart, or a pirogue (boat). You can also be adventurous and hike to other villages.
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