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Capital of Samoa
Photo: Rickard Törnblad, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Apia is the capital of Samoa. It is on the northern coast of the island of Upolu and has a population of 42,000 (2021). As with most Pacific Island capitals, Apia is a little shabby and run down. Reasonably small in size and with few obvious attractions, Apia is very useful as a stop-off point for first-time visitors to get their bearings, plan travel around the island of Upolu, organise accommodation on the beach, and recover from jet lag. Most of Samoa's highlights are outside the town, although many are within a very short drive.
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This house was built by RLS, the author most known for Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde, during the final years of his life, which he spent in Apia. It was said to be the only place that he or his wife ever truly called home. Although none of his most famous works were written here, he did write some short stories here, including "The Bottle Imp", which he wrote specifically for the Samoans and Pacific Islanders. The Samoan translation of this story became the first work of literature to be written into Samoan (excluding the Bible) and the only work by Stevenson to be translated into Samoan within his lifetime. The house is now a very well-kept museum with a good collection of items either originally from the home or equivalents.
Located at the top of Mount Vaea overlooking the home, it is best visited in the early morning. As long as there has not been a lot of rain the longer and shallower path takes about an hour and is an easy walk. The steep path downhill is an option if it has been dry recently. Take water. From the grave, there are good views to the east and across the Pacific. There is no charge to climb to the grave.
The country's national museum is housed in an over-hundred-year old colonial building that was once a German school. Among other things the museum has Lapita pottery and stone adze heads, used by the early settlers to the islands; a good selection of historical photos; information about tattoos, and examples of Samoan birds.
This is when the locals go to buy fish for the special meal of the week, Sunday tonai.
Holds the parliament house, the law and titles court, the historic observatory, and many important tombs.
Built as a war memorial, the clock tower is regarded as the central point of the city.
Catholic cathedral and one of the bigger buildings in the town, also its cupols and ornaments sets it apart from the rest of the city's buildings. It was finished in the mid-19th century, badly damaged in the 2009 earthquake, and reopened after renovation and extension in 2014.
The Latter Day Saints church west of Apia was opened in 1983 and is with its 75-metre high spire another place of worship that's also a remarkable landmark. Like other LDS Church temples, only members in good standing may enter, but anyone can walk the grounds.
The only beach in Apia to the east of the harbour. Not really much a beach, though, it's mostly coral gravel. It's an official underwater park. The snorkelling initially seems pretty poor but if you venture further out (probably a good quarter mile swim) it gets a bit more interesting with the occasional turtle and black tip reef shark. Ask at the entrance where to swim, there's a marker post that helps. If you are stuck in Apia it's not a bad way to kill a few hours or just hang out at the "beach". You can rent snorkels here or better quality equipment from AquaSamoa at the Marina. Also check the tide chart at the gate before you pay, at low tide there is a long paddle out over very sharp coral to get anywhere deep enough to snorkel. The best time is on the incoming tide as the water level is high enough to clear the coral on the way out and you won't have to swim against the tide on the way back in.
One of the major sporting venues in Apia. Mainly used to hold rugby union matches but also association football matches and athletic events. Capacity is 12,000.
Delicious local food by the scoop for takeaway or eat-in.
Serves hefty portions of well seasoned fish and chips, fried chicken and chips and cheeseburgers. It's a challenge to finish the jumbo sized drinks. Limited options for vegetarians/vegans.
Arguably the most authentic Indian cuisine in Apia.
Premier steakhouse with impressive seafood too. Try the lobster.
The Italiano Café on the beach road, halfway between the tourist office and Aggie Grey's has decent pizzas for $18/27/36 (small/med/large). A “medium” is enough for 2!
The main produce market in Apia. Operates 6 days a week with a few additional traders on Saturdays. A great selection of local food and exotic fruits, including fresh limes, mango, avocado, pawpaw, pineapple, soursop, breadfruit, coconut, taro, leafy greens and several varieties of banana (including red ones). Try the palusami (taro leaves baked in coconut cream). It's a good idea to stock up on fruit here before heading anywhere on the islands.
Serves seafood, steak, salad and a variety of pastas. Jazz nights, huge deck overlooking the harbour, very friendly service.
Good food for reasonable prices and provides a view over the harbour.
Decent food for decent prices ($20 for fish steak w/fries). A popular meeting place for locals and ex-pats.
Popular, if slightly overrated, Italian-style restaurant.
Australian-run restaurant that is considered to be the closest to Michelin quality in the city. Guys running the place reportedly a bit distant.
Has a bar that affords views across the eastern part of Apia and the Pacific. The food is above average standard for Apia and prices range from $30-70 a main course.
Italian restaurant famous for its pizza. Vegetarian friendly.
Liquor store, sells a good range of spirits and wines that are much cheaper than buying them by the glass from your hotel.
Well established local and expat bar.
A local club that tends to be a bit rough and ready and caters to an older, beer-drinking clientele, but is a great way to meet locals and chat.
Restaurant, cocktail bar and event venue with DJs playing W-Sa nights
A prime choice for medical students doing their electives at the local hospital. Run by a Danish man and his Samoan wife. Clean and friendly with a pool and beautiful gardens. Option of staying in a traditional fale (very economical) or air conditioned rooms. Discounts can sometimes be negotiated for longer stays during medical electives, etc. Has Lavasoft Wi-Fi (paid).
Air-conditioned rooms with an outdoor swimming pool and restaurant.
With eight two-bedroomed units, the motel styles itself as family friendly. 10 minute drive from downtown Apia. Pool, basketball and tennis courts available.
Colonial style bed and breakfast. En suite rooms from $130 to 150. Complimentary tropical breakfast. Rooms are air conditioned. Has a pool and free Wi-Fi.
Has a restaurant & bar, a meeting room for business travellers and a swimming pool.
Very nice, air-conditioned rooms and friendly staff. May be slightly expensive for backpackers but reasonably priced for couples. Inclusive breakfast. Short walk to the centre of town. Some rooms have patios overlooking the harbour. Notice that the wi-fi (LavaSpot) isn't free, but don't buy the internet from the desk staff, you can get it cheaper by buying it directly from the intercept page.
Completely rebuilt hotel after the former Hotel Tusitala was destroyed by fire. Good quality, spacious rooms in large grounds. Has a main swimming pool, a children's pool, a playground for children, tennis courts, fitness centre. WiFi access is free throughout the hotel but is capped at 1GB per day per room.
Somewhat overpriced hotel for what you get. Convenient for visitors to Apia's large UN headquarters but a short taxi ride ($3) to town if you are a tourist.
The flea market nearby the fish market to the west of the Clock Tower, sells a variety of local handicrafts and imported items.
The new market or marketi fou is a traditional market selling all sorts of local produce as well as some handicrafts. One section sells kava by the cup.
The seafood here is at its freshest on Sunday morning as early as 05:00. You will find yellow fin tuna, eels, octopus, crabs, lobsters, sea urchins among other delicacies.
By boat
Occasional cargo ships dock at Apia port on their way around the world. A twice-monthly ferry sails to Tokelau. Yachties can berth in Apia Harbour, where there are good facilities.
By car
The aptly named Cross Island Road connects the southern villages on the island of Upolu with Apia.
Much of Apia is within walking distance, although this could be an uncomfortable experience on a hot and humid Samoan Day. Another thing to consider is the number of aggressive stray dogs towards dusk and in the evening.
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