City in Peru
Photo: Marvin The Paranoid, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Cuzco or Cusco (Qosqo in Quechua, Cusco in Spanish), in the Southern Sierras, is a fascinating city that was the capital of the Inca Empire. Cuzco is a and is one of Peru's most visited cities as it is the largest and most comfortable city from which tourists can begin visits to Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and other Inca sites in the region.
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
In the Municipal Palace at Plaza Regocijo, this museum has exhibitions of contemporary art. Admission with the boleto turistico
In the home of the Inca historian Garcilaso de la Vega, this 2-story museum has many paintings from the 17th and 18th century as well as historical displays chronicling the pre-Hispanic Inca civilization, the invasion of the Spanish and the role of Christianity in the post-conquest era. A tour is unlikely to take much more than an hour.
Museo Machu Picchu, Casa Concha
The largest collection of Machu Picchu artifacts in the world. These artifacts were collected by Yale University researcher Hiram Bingham beginning in 1912 and returned to Peru in 2011. The museum is housed in a late 18th-century house called Casa Concha.
A beautiful (and free) museum inside El Centro's textile store, featuring a gallery containing displays of traditional Quechuan and Andean textiles. The museum explains the historical significance of textiles and the techniques by which they are made. A must-see, and visitors can buy the traditional textiles as they come in. A large majority of the money goes to the women who produce them, and the textiles are of much higher quality than the synthetic and machine-woven textiles found throughout the city.
With information about the different pre-Columbian cultures and fragments of ceramics and textiles of the Inca culture. A very small museum, the showcase room includes three mummies and skulls modified by the Incas with holes or sloped foreheads. Allow an hour to an hour and a half. English explanations are present but lacking.
Displays a collection of popular art featuring handcrafts of the modern era.
Monasterio de Santa Catalina de Nuestra Señora de Los Remedios
Also a collection of religious art. Admission with the boleto turistico.
The Sun Temple, Qorinkancha
The central site of worship for the Incas. Like so many other testimonies of fantastic Inca architecture, it was severely devastated by the conquistadores, the Spanish conquerors, who built their Christian church, Santo Domingo, on top of the ruins. Yet most of the bottom part of the temple is fairly well preserved and makes the site worth several hours of your time. The site is one of the best in Cuzco, containing both Catholic and Inca heritage with stunning views of the surrounding area. Looking at the outside from Avenida del Sol, you get a perfect view of the church standing on the temple and you see the differences of the Inca and the Spanish way of building. Qoricancha also is the starting point of the yearly processions at Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival, in the remembrance of the Inca tradition of celebrating the winter solstice. This procession then moves all the way up to Saxayhuamán. In order to understand, especially the remarkable remains in the Inca section, a guided tour is advisable.
A shop ("museum") explaining the history of cacao (free) and offering chocolate workshops (not free) as well as cacao farm tours (not free). Different recipes from around the world are available all made with chocolate from the factory inside the cacao and chocolate museum. Great artisanal and organically sourced hot chocolate.
Extensive museum of pre-Inca, Inca, and colonial artifacts. Labels in English and Spanish, though the descriptions in English are sometimes pretty different from the ones in Spanish.
Museo de Historia Natural
Twelve-angle stone
A large stone in one wall has 12 sides and 12 angles. This one has become almost a symbol of Cusco and is a striking example of the precision of Inca architecture and stonework.
Down Av. Sol, is a statue of the Inca warrior King Pachacuteq. The statue is placed on a cylindrical base and the total monument is over 22 m high. The cylindrical base can be climbed, but views are disappointing because the monument is in a lower part of town.
Catedral Basílica de la Virgen de la Asunción
Elaborate large cathedral full of colonial-era religious paintings. The biggest church in Cuzco, in front of Plaza de Armas. As a tourist the entrance is S/25. If you go in a "misa" (mass) between 06:30–09:00, it is free. No photography allowed.
Dirección Desconcentrada de Cultura de Cusco
The ruins of an Inca palace, the home of 15th-century Inca emperor Pachakuti Inka Yupanki, which you can walk around in. The Inca and colonial stonework and architecture is interesting.
The park square has churches, shops, restaurants and bars surrounding it, and is a great place to spend an afternoon. The historical center of Cuzco is beautiful, but you will have to deal with all the street vendors and hawkers of cheap paintings and other souvenirs. They are everywhere in and around the Plaza de Armas. They somewhat spoil the experience.
A great place to visit one of Cuzco's many great coffee shops. Next to the Plaza is the main market, which is fairly traditional and is a worthwhile visit. The market has a mix of stalls selling food and other household items as well as clothing and souvenirs.
Take a Salsa class, or three. This is a fabulous little salsa school offering private and group classes at minimal price in two central locations. With enthusiastic teachers and a number of styles taught, this is the perfect time to polish your moves and get ready to shine on the dance floor. Ask for Franshesco Efernetti if you want private classes.
Information about Inka astronomy, projection and explanation of the southern sky in the dome, observing stars, planets and other objects with telescopes.
The closest and largest of these ruins is the amazing Sacsayhuamán (sometimes called Saqsaywaman and pronounced "Sock-say-wah-mun"), the ruins of an Inca fortress high above Cuzco. It is a steep climb from the Plaza de Armas up Plateros street which changes to Saphi. Look for the long staircase on the right, follow the paved curvy road up to the next cobblestone pedestrian path and follow this climb past the first closed control point to the second control. No need to take a cab if you can handle it. But, be careful, as robberies have been reported in mornings and evenings. There is a charge to explore the ruins at the second control or present your boleto turistico. Those on a budget can get a sense of the ruins without paying by walking up the hill and up to the entrance. You can then walk to the adjacent hill with the big Jesus on it and look down on the city. The sheer size of the stones that were moved and the importance of the battle there make it worth entrance fee. Even though only 20% of the fortress remains, the ruins are huge—budget at least two hours for exploring them. They include a dark tunnel you can walk through and a sloped rock that kids love to use as a slide. Read up on the battle beforehand as the guides don't discuss it. Also, a view of the circular base of the former tower as shown in many of the photos is not possible due to the protective ropes. Go earlier in the morning as later visits are disrupted a bit by whistles from guards telling unobservant tourists to get off the ruins. Or go even more early (before 07:00) and get in for free (2013).
Q'enqo
The second site up the road from Sacsayhuamán. Take the combi shared buses up the hill for S/1 or take a walk of about 0.5–1 km up a gradual incline to visit the site. Its name means "Zig-Zag" in Quechua, and probably refers to the Zig-Zag channels carved into a rock. Explore the pass through cave and view the altar on which llamas were sacrificed. The large erect stone shown on the boleto turistico is a solar calendar. On each side of the stone is a square wall two stones high. Each stone is representative of a number of days, the total is the total days in the year. Opposite the stone are the familiar windows in which mummies and human remains were discovered. Adjacent to the site is the smaller archeological site Q'enqo Chico. Accessible with the boleto turistico.
red fort
Named after the red hue of the hillsides nearby. The third site along the route, even heartier walkers will find the walk a bit long and a bit steep despite the paved and well traveled road. However, the views along the walk are great and small mud brick bars are intermittent between the sites. Hire a taxi or take a combi shared bus up from Qenko for S/1 to save time and energy. A larger site than Q'enqo, the guides have more to say about this site. It was likely a checkpoint or military control. Offerings of coca leaves among other things were received here. Accessible with the boleto turistico.
The most distant ruin on the route from Cuzco. It is a small site with an ornamental fountain whose source is unknown as reportedly archaeologists lack the tools necessary to determine the source without damaging the site. Likely it is an underground spring. In several Incan sites such as Ollentaytambo water sources were covered or underground to protect the water supply from poisoning. Accessible with the boleto turistico. Bathrooms are free with the boleto. Take a combi all the way back to Plaza de las Armas in Cuzco for 1 sole.
A one-of-a-kind rehabilitation center started by a family of biologists, which provides shelter to animals injured or victimized by poaching. It's a happy place where animals get better and those able are re-released. In 2012, there were three condors, llamas, alpacas, vicunas, macaws, pumas, an unusual furless Peruvian dog, local deer, all very friendly. This is the best place to see pumas, condors and vicunas up close. This is on the road from Cuzco to Pisaq. You can get there by motorcycle or there is usually person working for this refugee at corner of Plaza de Armas and Calle del Medio, which will organize transport for you in refugee's van for S/20 per person. Donations help with rehabilitation efforts. This place is ahead of its time, and very friendly and awesome.
Vinicunca
A challenging early-morning, high-altitude hike to a beautiful multicolored mountain. Tours usually start around 04:00 with a breakfast break near or in Cusipata at around 07:00. Now there's a new path leading to the mountain from the west, the former 3-hour hike (from the east) is more a 90-minute walk now. Horses can be hired for a fee, children with llamas or sheep offer to pose for a photo (free/included in the entrance fee, but a small tip is appreciated). Highest point: Montana Winikunka, 5036 m.
For late night food after clubbing, a very good fast food-type restaurant.
Good quality Chifa. Dishes for S/2-3. Ample portions invite sharing. Credit cards accepted.
Reasonably priced vegetarian restaurant with good portions. The S/10 dinner includes soup, main course and mate. Free salads with lunch. They also do soy meat very well. There are two of these restaurants but the one in Calle Tigre near Plaza de Armas is S/8 for exactly the same menu.
Nothing fancy but great cheap food: for S/10 you get a meal deal that includes a plate from the salad bar, a selection of soup, a selection of main dish, a dessert and a beverage. Or splurge with their more expensive menu offer for S/20. Very tasty Peruvian food. Friendly staff.
Friendly service. Great salad bar buffet included in all main dishes. Gorgeous garlic trout with rice or potatoes for S/10 (including the salad bar buffet and lovely fresh bread) but only for lunch. Great value breakfasts. Regular glasses of freshly squeezed juice for S/6. Also they have a proper espresso machine for good coffee in the morning.
Arguably the best vegan place in Cusco, and very good value for money. Looks good, smells good, tastes good, and the staff is super friendly. Lunchtime offer includes drink and salad buffet for S/15. À la carte dishes are more expensive, but worth it. If you're up for a hot drink and/or something sweet, try the enormous hot chocolate for the (very enjoyable) sugar shock of the day.
This small restaurant seems to produce everything themselves. Local food is extremely good, in the evening small performance groups enter the restaurant and give excellent performances. The prices are mid-range, but it is sure worth it. The daily menu lunch special is more like a snack.
This is a great place to get a big breakfast complete with eggs, bacon, avocado, toast and fantastic thick shakes. Very popular with tourists. Try the homemade lemonades. Right outside of Jack's is an empanada stand which has great rocoto salsa, a spicy salsa that goes well on the cheese or meat-stuffed pastries.
This is a very tasty place to go for breakfast. Another location, Cicciolinia Café, is on Ruinas, which is open from 7:00 AM and good for brunch.
They have a 13-page menu with all sorts of foods from around the world. Try the pisco sour tall.
A nice place to have a break with coffee and a snack. Especially the chocolate cupcakes are delicious and make up for half a lunch. They also have fresh cakes, quiches and juices.
Vegan restaurant popular with tourists, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Various international dishes, and some Peruvian food. Gluten-free and raw options. Menu in English and Spanish. Wifi available.
Well-known and frequented by tourists but not a trap. Excellent food. Good place to try cuy (guinea pig); some people have reported mud butt after eating it, it is tastily done and served without the head so eating doesn't remind you of your pet hamster. Try the appetizer tiradito de trucha. Alpaca also on the menu.
This place specializes in stews. Food is delicious and friendly waitresses will take good care of you. Well chosen music and a fireplace create a romantic atmosphere.
They offer some of the best guinea pig or alpaca dishes from the local Novo Andino cuisine as well as other local specialties, including cuy; it's served here without the head (but with the feet).
Peruvian classics in an upscale setting on the Plaza de Armas. Reservations highly recommended months in advance during the high season. Walk-in wait times can be >2 hours during peak meal times.
Small and a bit pricey.
Well-stocked.
This is the largest supermarket in Cuzco.
On three levels. Snacks, a cafe on the rooftop, restaurant with a good cheap menu, two discos, the latest movies on DVD. Some of the decorations and paintings are by the owner/artist. Lots of people, good music, good atmosphere and free salsa lessons. Salsa starts at about 21:00 and goes until about 23:00. If you really want to learn some moves, dance with Carlos, Miguel, or Checo, who work there. It also plays host to the legendary 'crew' lively lot of Lima ladies whose exploits with gringo males have reached mythical levels. On the corner of Plaza de Armas.
A place with more locals than the Plaza de Armas. It has a unique cave-like interior and is one of the city's oldest discos.
If you want to get away from the tourist crowd for a while and dance the night away with the locals, head to this very nice large club with a great mix of music and exotic drinks.
The night-brother of Jack's Cafe. Not exactly traditional Peruvian fare, but an excellent atmosphere among fellow travellers in a cozy upstairs pub setting. Purportedly the highest 'Irish-owned' pub in the world at 3,400 m, it offers a good selection of pub food (think cottage pie, casseroles, mash and gravy), local and international drinks (even had cider and Guinness), and a useful "No Gracias" T-shirt for sale.
Disco that offers salsa. If you want to learn Rueda Cubana, this is the place to go. Classes usually start around 21:00 and private lessons can be arranged with Cesar, the dance instructor. Mythology also offers a unique decor of gods and goddesses and has the cleanest restrooms of all of the nightclubs, by far.
Live music with local and traveling artists playing a variety of different music styles including salsa, meringue, criolla, and Afro-Peruvian. There are great decorative masks in the walls and a huge wooden woman statue with butterfly wings.
Chill restaurant/lounge. Ethnic food and comfortable couches. Has a variety of their own locally brewed house beers.
2nd floor, cnr of Choquechaca and Cuesta San Blas 207. Coffee bar/lounge with live music every night. Reggae, Latin, cubano, afro-Jazz, blues, bossa, funk, soul, rock and española. No cover. Friendly staff.
Small basement bar one block from the plaza de Armas. Very friendly place to watch American football or basketball and chat to the regulars and owners. Great pizzas and paninis, cheap happy hour cocktails and beers. A real bar for locals, expats and Cusqueños.
Modern, bright coffee shop serving hot and cold coffees brewed via chemex, french press, or Japanese sifon. Offers coffee drinks with alcohol. Sandwiches made with homemade breads.
A coffee lover's coffee shop where you can specify the kind of bean you want for your coffee, roast level, and method of extraction (from basic drip to french press or cold brew). Uninviting barebones interior, but good coffee anyway.
A quiet place, private bathrooms, TV, wi-fi, hot shower.
A great little hostal overlooking the city with a variety of comfortable, affordable rooms.
Really nice for a hostel. Very friendly staff. Hot water, continental breakfast, free wifi. It's a new establishment so some books may not have it listed especially if the print is a few years old.
Well-kept place with good-value rooms around a colonial courtyard, hot water, common kitchen, helpful staff, wifi.
Dormitory beds in a freaky, chilled out and friendly atmosphere with a sunny garden, fireplace, outdoor kitchen and gas hot water.
Hostel in San Blas area of Cuzco, about 3 blocks from Plaza de Armas. Free wifi, 2 free computers, free breakfast, all rooms have cable TV. Very friendly staff, rooms cleaned daily. Much cheaper than similar places.
A guesthouse near the Plaza de San Francisco run by a kind local lady that offers extremely clean and comfortable rooms, ensuite bathrooms, cable TV, and excellent breakfasts. 7-minute walk to Plaza de Armas
Pirwa backpackers hostel
24-hr hot showers, movies, in-house bar, pool (game) table, attentive staff, free breakfast, free internet, pick up service, and comfortable beds.
Movies, safe and relaxed environment, traditional meals, good view of the main plaza.
Private and double rooms and windows that look onto the mountain range. Good service and daily egg breakfast. Non-profit hostel supporting the children's hospital next door.
Two blocks from the Plaza, hot showers, common areas are decorated with local designs, safe, clean.
Great hostel with a wide range of rooms. Free wifi (in lobby, not room), breakfast, lockers, and coffee and tea all day. Check out their bar, and ask them to arrange tours for you. Friendly staff.
Shared double rooms surround a large concrete courtyard. There is a kitchen with a sociable commonroom with cableTV. A night cost S/15 and includes a small breakfast. It's popular with gringos.
180 beds, noisy party hostel in a 450-year-old Peruvian national monument. Dorms from US$13, basic breakfast included. Wifi, tea and coffee are included. Hot water with pressure in generally shared showers. 13:00 checkout and small lockers in reception that have plug sockets in them.
Has very beautiful rooms with private or shared bathroom and two small dorms. The place has a nice patio with a fireplace, it's completely clean and there is another sitting room with TV and cable and a computer with free internet on which to burn your own CDs or DVDs. Free wifi, laundry service, breakfast available. 2 blocks from the main square, close to the centre of 'fiesta'. Pressurized hot water available around the clock.
Close to the plaza. Amazingly hot showers, with good water pressure. TV, food available.
Free internet and wifi throughout, hot showers, towels available, and warm bed available. Use of kitchen. Only 6 blocks from the main square.
Quiet and cheap option about 15-min walk from the city center. Rooms are spacious and have private bathroom and local television and cost S/15 per person.
Old world nostalgia with breakfast. No internet.
Breakfast, cable TV, wifi, friendly staff. Large rooms some with desks and refrigerator. Posted prices are high, but they can be talked down to S/45 per night.
Sanblas Backpacker Hostel
Very big but nice place in a historic building with great view over the city. Free wifi, breakfast optional. They also run a tour agency and tend to be very pushy in trying to sell their tours (which are very pricey, so try to haggle the price down!). Advertised price is US$30 for a nice double, but in the low season it was possible to lower it to US$15 (May 2012). Rooms on the upper floors are much better than the lower floors!
A relaxed backpacker hostel with dorms, private rooms and a super friendly staff.
One of the cheaper hostels in the city, but surprisingly nice. Wifi, free breakfast, inexpensive dinners available some days, bonfires in the evening, and a view of the city from the upstairs kitchen/dining room. (The affiliated VIP House Hostel is around the corner.)
Quiet and cheap option about 3 blocks from the Plaza de Armas. Rooms are decent sized and have private or shared bath facilities and TV. US$30–55/room depending on type of beds, occupancy and season.
Quiet and cheap option about 2-3 blocks from the Plaza de Armas. US$30–48/room depending on type of beds, occupancy and season.
Awesome interior design, delicious breakfast and moderate prices. From Plaza de Armas, follow Plateros a block and a half or so. The hotel is in a lane up the hill. About half a block up, look for the door on the right. The sign is above the door, so you may not see it unless you walk on the opposite side of the lane.
Clean, friendly and helpful German chef, a lazy iguana, creative interior, cosy atmosphere. Double costs around US$20 (the one on top is quiet and offers a view of Ausangate mountain).
The colonial building has original Inca walls and exposed wood beams, and the rustic accommodations are simply decorated in a cozy mountain lodge aesthetic. All rooms are oriented toward Cuzco below, offering panoramic views.
Hotel with charitable purposes: all procedures from room booking and in-house restaurant go towards running an association that gives support to local unprivileged children.
Comfortable rooms set around a courtyard filled with lush plants.
Rumi Punku means "stone door" in Quechua: the entrance to the hotel leads through an ancient stone door, obviously of Inca design. The doorway is all that has survived of an Inca palace. The door is considered a historic item by the city of Cuzco.
In the historic artisan's quarter 2½ blocks from the main square in a neighborhood of narrow, cobbled streets and whitewashed colonial-era houses. Friendly staff. US$110 a night for a single.
Richly decorated and a nice place to splash out for a few nights. Big buffet breakfasts. Ask for room at top floor in the front - has skylights, lots of room, nice furnishings. Cable TV, wifi.
Free Wi-Fi, 2 blocks from Plaza de Armas, breakfast, hot water, kitchen.
Very quiet, beautiful rooms, clean and cozy.
Upscale hotel with spacious, clean, well-appointed rooms with quality linens, good smelling soaps, bottled water. On-site restaurant serves a hearty buffet breakfast.
Many of the rooms on the second floor have high ceilings with white-painted wood beams visibly charming. The hotel is organized around two interior courtyards. Breakfast is included. The staff are attentive, speak great English, and can help you make reservations. The most interesting aspect of Tierra Viva Saphi is the location it is at the boundary between fancy Plaza de Armas and the poor hills around Cuzco it's charming, but also somewhat out of place. Room 212 is excellent. 2nd floor rooms are preferable. 24 hour desk so it's easy to check out for those early Inca Trail departures. Free coca tea in the lobby a great way to warm up at night.
The hotel was part of the Koricancha temple and during colonial times it became property of the conqueror Francisco Pizarro. Impressive interior with many paintings from the 17th century. Very good spread for breakfast. The hotel offers a daily, free, tour about the hotel and its history in the evenings.
Modern hotel that combines warm room atmospheres with professional and experienced attention. Near Plaza de Armas.
Housed in a former monastery, rooms are former monks' cells, but they are far from monastic. By far the most expensive place to stay in Cuzco. Avoid rooms 414-419, which are near a noisy generator.
The official hotel of SAS travel. Good staff and comfortable rooms. In the tourist district, 2 blocks from the Plaza des Armas.
San Pedro Market
The largest market close to the center. Though it's becoming more tourist-oriented it still has plenty of genuine local colour, a nice change from Plaza de Armas. If you're looking for a full blown market with a special aisle for entrails, this is the place to be. Colorful, vibrant, packed, San Pedro Market is not to be missed. You can find all manner of fruits, vegetables, cheeses, chocolates, honey, meats, household items, clothing, gifts, fresh fruit juices, and even tailors to repair your clothes while you wait. This market is in a less (but still somewhat) touristy area. The market itself is somewhat poorly lit (shaded by an overhang). Watch your belongings.
Good for fair-trade textiles.
Good for well-made but pricey indigenous weavings and pottery. No obvious fakes or tourist junk.
A lovely place to enjoy a delicious breakfast before starting a journey. Handcrafts available as well as fruits, vegetables and grocery items.
Mercado Artesanal
If you don't want to go so far away, but still want touristy stuff, go to the big red building near the fountain. Also try the main market by Plaza San Francisco. This market is almost exclusively tourist-oriented goods. There are a few restaurants inside as well.
Another market, you have to take a taxi and it costs S/2 to get there. In this market you can buy pirated merchandise including DVDs and CDs. A good quality copy DVD is S/3. Be aware that DVDs here may be region-encoded for region 4. These will not play on many DVD players purchased in the U.S. or Canada. Look for DVDs encoded for region 0, or you can see about modifying your DVD player to accept all DVDs.
By bus
5 km walk (40 min) southeast from el Centro Histórico on Avenida El Sol and San Martin. You can also take a taxi for a few soles.
By rail
Cuzco is connected to Machu Picchu and Puno by rail. Rail service to Arequipa has been discontinued. Service is operated by PeruRail and Inca Rail.
By bus
There are several smaller bus terminals in Cuzco that travel to other destinations around the Sacred Valley of the Incas.
By taxi
Taxis are very common in Cuzco. Officially they cost S/2–4 depending on distance. Call Cusco Taxi. Often the drivers isn't a local.
By car
Driving in and around Cuzco can be very daunting, complete with a unique set of challenges that can make driving around Lima seem easy by comparison.
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