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Capital and the largest city of Niger
Photo: https://www.flickr.com/people/rolandh/ Roland (diasUndKompott), CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Niamey, the capital of Niger, is a calm, fairly modern city of around 1.3 million (2020) on the banks of the Niger River surrounded by the Tillaberi region in the far southwest of Niger. It is the administrative, cultural and economic hub and hence generally offers good facilities for travellers, both budget and upmarket. Niamey offers unique open-air markets that are great for people watching; they’re patronized by members of the Tuareg, Sonuri and Fulani tribes, as well as wrestling, some beautiful views of the Niger river and the massive Grand Mosque.
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This complex was built in 1959 by the colonial French government as the L'Institute Francais d'Afrique Noire (French Institute of Black Africa), although the original museum was largely destroyed by fire in 1980. The museum is fairly small and run down. There are some Hausa-styled pavilions containing displays on Nigerien history & customs and exhibitions focusing on such things as traditional instruments, palaeontology/archaeology, costumes & uranium mining. The national zoo is depressing, mostly Sahelian animals. Other sites on the campus include traditionally-built dwellings, a small bar, and many handicrafts sellers. Bring water or buy it outside, as it is expensive inside. The exhibits and boutiques are closed in the afternoon 12:00-15:00 although during that time you can still see the animals and artisans. Entry costs CFA 1,000, a photography permit is CFA 1,000, and a guided tour (in French) costs CFA 2,500. There are two entrances: one on Rue du Musee and another opposite the Palais du Congres.
You can tour the Grande Mosquée, a gift to Niger from Libyan dictator Muammar Qaddafi. Just walk up to the main doors of the Grande Mosque and the guardian will greet you and give you a tour. Or arrange with him ahead of time: his name is Issaka and his number is 96.30.24.27. You pay “whatever you think is appropriate” but be aware that you will have to pay three separate times: the first time is a donation to support the upkeep of the mosque and their charitable activities; the second time is a small donation for the women’s room of the mosque, and then a tip for the guide at the end. So, you might pay CFA 1000/400/1000 per person but exact amounts are up to you. As part of the tour you can climb the minaret and take pictures. Tours are in French, Hausa, or Zarma. Not open around prayer time, Fridays, and Muslim holidays. He likes to rush you through, but take your time and enjoy it. You might need to “remind” him about the minaret. Dress conservatively; women must wear a head scarf.
The largest place of worship for the city's minority (but still sizable) Christian population, the cathedral mixes local and European architecture & décor. This cathedral is very lively during sermons and churchgoers are finely dressed. Services are offered in French & Hausa, inquire at the Catholic mission (+227 20 733259).
The largest market in Niger and the country's commercial centre, this colourful and vibrant site contains over 5000 stalls (1500 of which are enclosed). See below (under "Buy")
Across the street from the Musée Nationale, they have an extensive library (all in French), a bar, a cybercafe, and offer French and Nigerien language courses, and have a great activities schedule featuring musical acts, debates, films, plays, etc. Pick up their performance guide and plan your trips into Niamey around some great concerts and events. Even if nothing is scheduled, the library and bar are good places to meet expats and locals who are interested in learning and meeting new people.
Oumarou Ganda Cultural Centre
Like the CCFN, this cultural centre has a 5,000-spectator amphitheatre, a bar and a large library containing lots of French-language books & magazines.
Go out for an afternoon at the races at the hippodrome. A race is held Saturday afternoons around 17:00 or so, and it's free to get in. Go for the ambience, the pageantry, and if you like, make a bet.
Traditional Wrestling
You need a fair bit of luck to run into these traditional wrestling matches, as they are only held a few times every year, and can by law only be organized when crops are good. When they do, it's by far the most popular sport, and with a 2,000-year-history also the oldest. In the main national tournament each of Niger's eight regions sends 10 leather loincloth clad fighters to face of the 20 diameter ring. The first to fall, or even touch a knee to the ground, loses the match. Most matches are about 12 minutes long though they can last just a few seconds. Even if you are not into sports the cultural aspects; like opening prayer, praise poems, salutations, gift giving, traditional charms and the enthronement of the champion should keep you well occupied.
Most of Niamey's hotels with swimming pools allow non-guests to use the pool for a small fee (often a couple thousand francs). The best are at Hotel Gaweye & Grand Hotel, whose pools have a scenic view over the River Niger. There are public swimming pools beside Hotel la Fluviale (CFA 1,000) & beside Hotel Sahel (the "Picine Olympique", CFA 1,000). Ask to see the pool first to avoid paying for a dirty pool.
Serves excellent senegalese dishes (not the fatty, oil-saturated dishes that you often find) for CFA 1,500, They also offer a range of natural juices like bissap, jus de baobab and ginger for CFA 250 a glass.
Favourites include sauce d’arachide (peanut sauce) for CFA 800 including beef (more for chicken or fish), yassa (onion-based Senegalese specialty with veggies and meat) for CFA 800 including beef (more for chicken or fish) and spaghetti-poisson (spaghetti and fish) for CFA 2,000. They also have good bisap (sweetened hibiscus leave drink) for CFA 200 a small bottle. By some accounts, the best Senegalese food in Niamey. Good place to go if you are in the neighbourhood of either Grande Marché or Petite Marché.
Delicious hamburgers for CFA 800 or teazburgers (cheeseburgers) for CFA 1,400. Probably the best burgers (stuffed with fries) in town. They also have egg burgers for the vegetarians, fries, omelettes, tuna burgers and lots of other stuff including soft drinks. There are two locations: 1) Take a taxi to “Centre Cultural Oumarou Ganda”, north of the Grande Mosquée. From there, walk north towards the yellow Sonitrav sign and look for their shop on corner of the next crossroads; 2) Take a taxi to Rond Point Grand Hotel and they are on the west side of the round point on the road that heads down to the Kennedy Bridge.
Try the fufu, delicious at CFA 500/bowl, generous meat portions are extra. Or, if you are feeling adventurous, try the bonkou which is fermented corn dumplings with sauce. They also have soft drinks, PureWater, etc. Owners prefer to speak English. If you want a spoon you have to ask for it. Good place to go if you are in the neighbourhood of Grande Marché.
From Grande Marché’s Porte Principal (main entrance), head away from the marché. On your left, tucked in amongst other shops and hidden behind a bunch of street vendors, you’ll see a yellow-painted building with the Flag beer sign. Once you go in they have an enclosed shaded courtyard with wooden booths and tables. They have beer and cokes, and plenty of street food sellers are outside for various food options.
Delicious and cheap food. Run by a woman of Asian descent. Call ahead the day before and order the Chinese soup (20.73.24.83). Ask a taxi for “Pharmacie Inikwara” and then walk north for half a block. Look for the big cement swan planters out front.
Amazing food cooked by a sweet Cameroonian lady, plus cheap drinks, tucked away off the street. Ask what she has available for the day as the menu is flexible and the things that she has prepared for the day might not even be on the menu. Try the Soupe de Viande ou Poisson, an incredible meat soup with a Thai lemongrass flavour. Other delicious dishes are the Eba with sauce feuille (manioc fufu with a chapata topping that tastes like sautéed spinach), Eba with Ndole sauce (salty but good), and Riz Cantonais. (Again, some of the above are not on the menu so ask for them or ask what she has available that day.) There is also delicious steak with sautéed veggies, plus other basics like fries, petit pois, mixed salad, and aloco (plantains, when in season). Take a taxi to Rond Point Maourey. If you are facing the hotel, walk ½ block along the street that runs left of the hotel.
Take a taxi to “Hotel Sahel”. Stop the taxi before he turns into the hotel. Walk 20 feet further down the road (east) and turn into the Piscine Olympique. Walk through the empty sandy ground, greet the friendly guardian on his pedal bike, walk behind the often-empty Olympic pool (but if it’s open you can go for a swim for CFA 1,000), and into the restaurant. Food and drinks are ordered separately and come on separate bills. Cokes are CFA 300, conjunctures (small Bière Niger) are CFA 600. Food options are brochettes (steak: say “filet”; merguez: beef sausage, tongue, liver, and kidney) for CFA 250, French fries, peas, green beans, and when in season, fried plantains; each of these dishes is CFA 1,000. They also have a tasty salad (at your own risk), ½ chicken, or full chicken. Great place to take newly-arrived visitors for sunset because of the unbeatable view.
Take a taxi to Rond Point Liberté. Start walking in the direction of the Stade, and it is there on the right. It is run by a nice Sudanese guy who speaks English. The prices he gives you in English are in Nigerian naira, so you must multiply the price by 5 for the price in CFA. For instance, if he says CFA 200, it is really CFA 1,000. They have delicious steak, fries, salad, rice and sauce, etc. Nice place to go after a shopping trip to Grande Marché.
Lattes, goat cheese soup, pain de chocolat, pain des epinards, salads, sandwiches, Lebanese specialties, and many other good things. Bright, clean, and modern, it is a very popular favorite amongst anyone who enters its doors. Taxi to “Score” (by Petite Marché), and it’s right across the street.
A swanky rooftop escape overlooking Rond Point Maorey. Go up there for drinks, dinner, dancing late, pedicures, watching the world go by. Have a beer and watch the rond point for accidents and near misses.
Lebanese Cuisine. Take a taxi to "Pharmacie Yantala." This inviting restaurant offers the best in Lebanese fare. The mezzé is the meal to order: it’s a sampler platter of taboulé, hummus, baba ganouj, meat pies and other Lebanese delicacies for CFA 10,000: split it between 2-3 people. The falafels and chawermas are also very tasty. Service is friendly and efficient.
In Chateau 1 one can also have quality Senegalese food. Slightly higher prices than the other Senagalese places but still good. From the main Chateau 1 intersection, take the eastern road and it is just down a little way on the left.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner. A favourite among the expats because of its extensive and varied menu, including everything from burgers and pseudo-milkshakes to decent Chinese and even Japanese food. Try the pizza. Sonara I Building (same building as Air France) on Rue du Souvenir.
Great atmosphere, with dining outside or in a small hut. Food from all over western Africa. The menu has good descriptions, and the waitress helps you with your order to make sure you’ll like your meal. Excellent brochettes. Off Chateau Un on the same road as the BraNiger outlet, heading north.
Chinese. Dine al fresco or indoors. Air-con. Run by a Chinese family. The food is excellent. Can’t go wrong with this choice. Off the rondpoint Grand Hotel; look for the Christmas lights. Friday nights has Karaoke.
Cheap and good Chinese food. Tell the taxi Pharmacy Chateau Un. They will also deliver but you have to pay for the service and it is often a wait, so order early.
Another highly rated Lebanese restaurant tucked away in Chateau 1. Off the main road that turns into Maurice Delens. Look for the plaque, on the same side of the street as ChouBoy and Jojo Market.
West African. Lunch and dinner. Very popular African restaurant for Westerners and Nigeriens. Owned by a Cote d’Ivorian, reasonably priced, nice ambiance. One plate and a few side dishes is enough for two. A little tough to find and very slow service but it’s worth the effort. Not far from the Eglise Baptiste.
North African Cuisine. Coming from Tillaberi, turn onto Maurice Delens toward Mali Bero and then take the very first left. You’ll see the sign immediately. This delightful and attractively decorated restaurant serves delicious couscous dishes and traditional Algerian tadjines. Try the Salad Casbah as an appetizer with its variety of tomato, aubergine (eggplant) and green peppers. For the carnivore, try the Couscous Royale, which has a good portion of chicken, mutton and sausage brochettes. They also have a fine selection of cocktails including daiquiris. Service is first rate.
Chinese. Good food and extremely popular. Has fresh noodles and hot pot (order one day in advance). Good date place because of its romantic atmosphere. Great for family meals because the service is fast and the kids can roam in the garden, look at the menagerie of animals or play on the swings and monkey bars. Located on Tillaberi Road, not far from Pharmacie Yantala. Taxi to OMS and it's across the street.
French and African cuisine. On the Corniche Gamkalley. Dine on a boat. Sunday lunch by reservation only. Very slow service, but good food. Good for a change in atmosphere. It’s also possible to rent the boat and have your meal while cruising the Niger.
French and African cuisine. Service is a little slow but the ambiance makes the meal worth the wait. Located directly across from the Commisserate Central, 2 blocks past Dragon d’Or. Good seafood dishes and good pizza. Serves free bread with pimenty salsa. Local music groups Friday and Saturday nights starting at 21:00.
Italian. Another expat favourite, especially for their desserts and their meals. Homemade pastas, ricotta and mozzarella cheeses. They even have cappuccino and tiramisu. Everything on the menu is good. Located on Rue de la Tapoa.
Pizza and pasta. Take away or eat-in. A wide selection of pizza toppings, and the service is quick. Good, thin crusted pizza in a comfortable setting. Also great calzones. Great for children as they can watch the cook make the pizza. Near Rue de Combat, by Croissant d’Or on Rue du Commerce. Tell the taxi "Siege BIA", and it is just down the street on the right.
Chinese. Lunch and dinner. Dine indoors or outdoors. Air-con and private party rooms available. This restaurant is run by the same owners of Le Dragon D’Or. The food is very good. Located on Mali Bero, one block south from the intersection with Maurice Delens.
French cuisine. Reservations required. A very pleasant restaurant, decorated with photos of the Sahara Desert and the Tuareg. If you ask in advance, the owner will show a slide presentation. The food is excellent. Off of the Place de la Republique, on Avenue de President Karl Carsten.
Upscale Ivorian restaurant. Tell a taxi “Station Terminus” and then walk north ½ block. Not far from the Grand Hotel and Hotel Terminus. Serves “Western” and a variety of West African dishes. Friendly staff.
Very small portions but a wide selection of good food, and a friendly owner from Australia.
The Night Market Bar
It's best to arrive just before sunset in this bar. Go in and get a drink plus street food (both outside and inside) at the cozy locals-only bar, when it gets dark. Then, go out on the street and shop for modern clothing in the glow of black lights amid the throngs of young men and women.
A bar for the locals. It has a great feel and is tucked away in the Nouveau Marché neighbourhood. The beer is cold and they have great fare for lunch and dinner if you are interested in local food. Well worth the trip to a local bar in a non-expat area.
Pool-playing and casual atmosphere, though it's definitely for wealthy locals and expats. Lebanese and Western fare and great cocktails.
The Grand Hotel has also houses a popular bar with an amazing river view, which is especially good around sunset. Jazz and happy hour brochettes on Thursday and Sunday nights.
Good sized rooms in good condition as this hotel opened in 2004, though no river views and no swimming pool.
Traditional cottages with thatched roofs, though a great deal more upscale than the locals residences set in a pretty garden, with a good restaurant and a hip pool with loads of atmosphere during the evening.
Nice rooms, good music some nights, and great bar food. Run by a French man and his Nigerien wife. Attached gallery also has some interesting art on occasion
Centrally located at Rond Point Maourey, this hotel has aircon, running water, a nice terrace, and a somewhat worn down look. Still one of the better mid-range options.
Air conditioned rooms with showers, and several bungalows right on the river, with great views. Some rooms have been renovated. It's not the safest of neighbourhoods though.
4 star hotel with swimming pool and a central location.
Each room have own entrance from patio. Good restaurant. Swimming pool.
A cheap and clean place to stay 2 blocks from Rond Point Maourey. Around 10,000F for a two-bed room. Officially it's only available to NGOs and other volunteers, but they have been known to take in polite guests.
Very cheap government lodging that is open to guests as long as the government is not using it for a training.
Four-star hotel: great view, older but decent conveniences (hot water, semi-functional central air-con). Don't walk near the ravine that runs near there to the centre of town as it's infamous for banditry. Great swimming pool and high speed internet.
Four-star hotel. Some rooms renovated, magnificent view over Niger river and the city of Niamey. Air-con. Great jazz and brochettes on Thursday and Sunday nights.
Newly built hotel in the city centre.
Grand marché de Niamey
By bus
Buses travel between Niamey and Cotonou in Benin, taking 14 hours for the journey.
By boat
While the Niger River runs through the city and there are no impediments to river travel (rapids, waterfalls), there is no regular boat service like there is upstream in Mali.
By car
There are several highways leading to Niamey.
By rail
A railway link between Niamey and Cotonou was planned and the construction started in 2015. However, the project quickly got to a halt and the tracks now lay abandoned between Niamey and Dosso.
By taxi
Taxis (small white cars) are plentiful and easy to use. They are almost always shared (1 passenger in the front, 3 in the back) unless you ask specifically to pay more to make it private.
By car
There is a Hertz car rental agency in Niger that rents Toyota RAV4. It is very expensive.
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Niamey · International · NIM
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