Main seaport of Dunedin, New Zealand
Photo: Mattinbgn, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Port Chalmers is a deep water fishing and cargo port for Dunedin, one of the main ports for the South Island of New Zealand, in the Otago region. It is visited by several cruise ships each summer. In 2021, it was home to 1,500 people.
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Originally called the Jerusalem Hotel, it was built in 1876 After the original owner had financial problems it was purchased in 1879 by George Chick and from then on it was known as Chick's. In 1903 the Port Chalmers electorate went ‘dry’ and Chick's lost its licence. Hotels at the port banded together, taking their case as far as the Privy Council, in London, before winning back their licences in May, 1905.
From 2008 until 2016 when it closed for good it was a popular music venue, which attracted national and international acts such as Steve Albini, Sharon van Etten and Kurt Vile. The building is now used as a recording studio.
The basement was once used as an overflow jail, with meals being served with the assistance of the Chick family. Now bricked up, a smuggling tunnel lead out from the basement to the dock area. Legend has it that drunk pub patrons would be taken down and ‘shanghaied’ to wake up the next day halfway out to sea.
Stone church, built between 1871 and 1883. The church is built from Port Chalmers bluestone (breccia stone), with Oamaru stone piles and kauri interiors and a roof clad in slate scales. The church has a number of memorial windows including the Watkin-Creed memorial windows, placed in the Iona Union Church vestibule in 1974 when the Port Chalmers Methodist Church was demolished. They have not been permanently installed as a result of their different shape but rest in front of the existing stained-glass windows. Above the altar is a rose window.
This church was built from Port Chalmers bluestone (breccia stone) between 1871 and 1874 to the designs of prominent Dunedin architect R.A. Lawson. It is one of only a handful of New Zealand churches built in an Early English Gothic style according to the principles of the Academic Gothic Revival. The church building is constructed from and has several fine memorial stained-glass windows.
This building dates from 1889 and originally housed the Port Chalmers Town Hall, as well as the Town Clerk’s office, the Fire Brigade, the Police Station (including the Sergeant’s residence and cells), Court Rooms, Customs Office and Government Shipping Office. There was also a morgue that occupied a backroom downstairs. Today the library and service centre are housed in the area previously occupied by the fire brigade. Upstairs are various function rooms.
This church opened in 1878. Due to a shortage of funds the planned spire was not built. In 1898 Mother Mary MacKillop, and two Josephite Sisters, arrived into Dunedin on the request of the local parish priest to assist with teaching. Australia's first saint, Saint Mary MacKillop is also known as Saint Mary of the Cross. When they arrived they found the existing school then called St Mary’s School, to be in an old shed-like house and in a sad state of disrepair. A new school, St Joseph’s Primary School, was subsequently opened at the end of January 1898. MacKillop lived in Port Chalmers for two months and was the first Head of St Joseph’s in Port Chalmers.
Paid for largely by public subscriptions this memorial cairn commemorates Robert Falcon Scott's ill-fated Antarctic expedition was formally unveiled in 1914.
The structure consists of a tall and gently tapering column of Port Chalmers bluestone, surmounted by an anchor. A viewing platform gives an impressive vantage point over the port and harbour.
This small museum is located in the former Post Office building (built in 1877). The building’s location prior to the 19th-century land reclamation, was the beach in Kōpūtai Bay where the first settlers from the sailing ship ‘John Wickliffe’ landed in 1848 to establish the Province of Otago. The museum has a maritime collection and a settlers' collection, telling the stories of early pioneers and many port characters who have lived here over the years.
Located between Port Chalmers and Portobello to the northwest of the larger Quarantine Island/Kamau Taurua, this island has an area of 4.5 hectares (11 acres). When the quarantine station was running, single men were quartered in a two storied barrack similar to those on Quarantine Island/Kamau Taurua. Unlike its neighbour, Goat Island/Rakiriri today is uninhabited, and is designated as a scenic reserve and Historic Area. It is an important bird area due to its breeding colony of bronze shags.
The former studio of noted artist Ralph Hotere (1931-2013) was on land at the tip of Observation Point, the large bluff overlooking the container terminal. When the port's facilities were expanded in 1993, part of the bluff was removed, including the area containing Hotere's studio (after strenuous objection from many of the town's residents). Part of the bluff close to the removed portion are converted by the Hotere Foundation Trust with the assistance of the Otago harbor Board into an award-winning sculpture garden in 2005 containing featuring fours works by both Hotere and other noted New Zealand modern sculptors.
Many buildings in Port Chalmers and Dunedin are built of Port Chalmers bluestone (brecia), which was cut from a quarry just behind the town. The quarry, which was known as the ‘Big Quarry’ opened in March 1866 and operated until it closed in the 1920. After being used or many years as overgrown rubbish dump. Lady Constance Thorn ( -1997), a former long- time mayoress of the town, came up with the idea of turning the area into a dell of rhododendrons. The Port Chalmers and District Lions Club came on board in 1998 to develop and now maintain the garden. The sheltered dell features numerous rhododendrons, along with magnolias, prunus, maples and spring flowering bulbs viewed by strolling the woodland paths. A lookout accessed by stairs features a selection of old historic photographs of Port Chalmers over the years and also offers a superb panoramic view of the town and Otago Harbour.
Home to some of New Zealand's most fascinating and rare wildlife and providing visitors with exceptional experiences while allowing native flora and fauna to live naturally in a safe haven. A 307-ha enclosure inside an 8.7-km pest-proof fence, it provides a chance to see Kaka, Tui, Bellbirds, Tuatara, Kiwi and more in a native setting. Offers daily guided tours and night tours twice a week.
Covering an area of 15 hectares (37 acres) this is the largest island in Otago Harbour. Local Māori know Quarantine Island as Kamau Taurua. The island served as the quarantine station for Otago from 1863 until 1924. Now the area around the remaining buildings is leased by the Quarantine Island/Kamau Taurua Community (QIKTC), while the remainder is jointly managed by the QIKTC and the Department of Conservation.
The QIKT Community host a monthly ‘Open Day’, usually on a Saturday on the last weekend of the month. They charter a boat which usually leaves Back Beach in Port Chalmers, at 9:30AM on Saturday morning, and returns about 1:30PM to 4PM. It may be possible to come over on the afternoon boat too, if you are staying overnight. Bookings in advance are essential as boat places are limited. A pick up on the Portobello side for Peninsula dwellers is usually possible by prior arrangement.
Visitors are welcome to stay overnight in the lodge on the island, returning Sunday afternoon.
A sightseeing train trip travelling through spectacular scenery. It departs from the cruise ship wharf and takes you on a journey through the rugged and spectacular Taieri River Gorge, across wrought iron viaducts and through tunnels carved by hand more than 100 years ago. Take your camera and lots of memory. The same company runs trips on the old Christchurch line as far as Palmerston, about 2 hours away; these can be booked to pick up at Port Chalmers Upper railway station (really a patch of lawn above the town in Ajax St). Cruise ship passengers may be charged a premium to travel by train from shipside; it can be cheaper to travel by bus to Dunedin and take the train from there.
This company operates a boat tour to Taiaroa Head Nature Reserve and the albatross colony. Minimum numbers apply. Subject to minimum numbers, departures from Portobello at 10AM, 1:15PM and 4PM from 1 October to 31 March. Outside of these dates by arrangement. Departures from Back Beach, Port Chalmers upon request 10 minutes later.
About 15 minutes walk in the next bay towards the harbour mouth is this historic pub, popular with locals for its hearty meals and unbeatable location where on sunny days you can grab an outside table out the front for first-class views over the sparkling water. The hotel was built in 1847 and for the next 100 years it was known as The Crescent Hotel. The business has more or less continuously operated since then, narrowly escaping Port Chalmers prohibition in the 1920s as it was just outside the legal boundary of the borough. After years of unsympathetic makeovers, it was restored from 2001 onwards by a new enthusiastic owner.
Homemade baked goods as well as pizza, whitebait fritters and coffee in a rustic setting. In the back bar you'll find a range of local craft beers and cider on tap. They serve pizza and tapas on Thursday and Sunday nights. There is also regular live music in the courtyard.
It has large windows looking out onto the main street and a sheltered courtyard, in which to relax and enjoy a cooked breakfast, fresh baking, salads, cheese rolls, bagels and locally roasted coffee. They have a number of gluten and dairy free options. Works of art by local artists are displayed for sale.
This cozy pub serves up a full menu and offers a large selection of New Zealand craft beer. On some Fridays there is a six-course degustation with craft beers. They make their own breads, sauces, condiments and hand cut chips. All of their tap beers are available on flagon fill.
Excellent baking, both of the savoury and sweet kind.
Also known as “Black Dog” this flat-frontage, three-story hotel in the main street has been a local favourite watering hole for over 150 years. On a board at the end of the bar hangs rows of beer handles with the name of their users printed beneath each one. Those on the top two rows are all dead.
This establishment opened in 1846, claims to be the oldest hotel south of Nelson, and the oldest continually operated business, in New Zealand. It is older than the founding of the province of Otago by two years thanks to a magistrate on the first surveyor ship and a licence to sell alcohol thought more pressing by the sealers and whalers than democracy. The current building dates from 1875. The hotel is apparently haunted by the ghost of a former publican.
Has an old-school Kiwi pub.
Gifts, furniture, global art and homewares with a distinct Eastern style. The store also stocks a wide range of furniture built from recycled teak wood.
Sells second hand books, with collections from children’s books, comics, poetry, thrillers and many others.
Specialises in handmade felt cloches and crocheted cloches.
This manufacturing jewellery shop is crammed full of unique and quirky pieces of jewellery. They sell a wide range of locally made bone pendants as well as jewellery made from semi-precious stones, and unique collectible pieces.
Specialises in retro and vintage clothing, magazines, collectables as well as kiwiana. Among the clothing is a range of up-cycled and vintage inspired labels including: Maiden Hair, Men Swear and Zipster.
Quality label clothing, stylish bags, hats, boots, coats, knitwear and accessories, vintage and handcrafted jewellery, fabrics, buttons, belts, buckles and sewing accessories. The shop buys your clothing, jewellery and accessories.
Second-hand designer clothing, collectables and artworks.
Located in the old ‘First National Bank of Otago’ building this shop offers ceramics, fine art, craftwork and collectibles. The studio ceramics are made on the premises by Toni Walker.
This shop sells the whimsical artwork of children’s writer, illustrator and local resident, David Elliot.
New and pre-loved label clothing and giftware for sale. They will also buy your label clothes and accessories on a commission basis where you receive 50% of the sale price of any item sold.
This supermarket on the main street, about ten minutes walk from shipside, has plenty of grocery lines to choose from.
Sells the bold and distinctive works of contemporary Debra Fallowfield. Each item is handcrafted, ensuring no two pieces are the same. She is particularly sought-after for her unique custom-made wedding and engagement rings. Shop hours are limited, tending to only open on Saturday noon-4PM, and the occasional Sunday, or via appointment. Debra travels for work often it is suggested that contact her first on +64 27 201-4835.
By air
By car
State Highway 88 connects Port Chalmers to Dunedin; the turnoff is near the Dunedin Railway Station.
By bicycle
Port Chalmers is connected to Dunedin by the Harbour Cycleway or Te Ara Moana (The Ocean Path).
By bus
Orbus buses organized by the Otago Regional Council (Ph.nz) depart in Dunedin from the Central City Bus Hub (on Great King Street between Moray Place and St Andrew St).
By cruise ship
Cruise ships are an increasingly popular way to visit Dunedin. There are now over 100 visits each year (mostly between October to March). The Dunedin City Council provides free Wi-Fi at the port.
By ferry
During the season there is ferry and water taxi services operated by Port to Port which can take you between Portobello, Port Chalmers, Carey's Bay and Quarantine Island.
By taxi
Taxis cost about $45 one-way between Dunedin and Port Chalmers.
By train
The Port Chalmers railway station is a trackside grassy patch in Ajax St above the centre of the town.
The bus service that connects with Dunedin is the only bus service in town. Otherwise the town is so small that walking is the best option.
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