Town in Töv, Mongolia
Photo: Chongkian, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Zuunmod is the capital of Tuv province, Mongolia. While the town of 15,000 may not be of much interest, the ruins of a destroyed Buddhist Temple is just outside the city along a hiking trail to Ulaanbaatar.
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Manzhir Khiid, Khiid meaning "monastery"
Former Buddhist Monastery built in 1733, and destroyed in 1937. It once consisted of 20 buildings housing 300 monks, many of whom were executed in late 1930s. After 1990, the main temple was rebuilt and turned into a museum with the ruins of 17 other buildings remain visible. There is a tourist ger camp on the site From the bus stop in town walk down the same street past the central park and museum. At end of the road turn right and walk down a few hundred meters. At the next major junction at traffic lights turn left. Cross the low plain on the road and after 200 m turn left again into a suburb of the town, mainly a group of huts and low buildings. Pass the small active Buddhist temple. Soon the dirt road leaves the last houses behind. You can go onto the hills that follow the road to Manjushri Khiid on the right side of the valley. They are worth for the views and the Obos. Follow one hilltop after another. After the one with two large Obos go down again onto the road that then goes through a gate, where on busy days you have to pay an entrance fee to the National Park of Bogd Khan Uul. Walk another kilometer to the monastery site. Just after the parking lot turn right up the hillside past a small museum with stuffed animals and past a huge broken bronze cauldron. You should soon be able to see a major path leading up into the trees. Follow this path which is marked with yellow on the trees for about two to three hours to the summit of Bogd Khan Uul. There are signs in Cyrillic Tsetsee Gün, which is the name of that highest rocky outcrop at 2256 m. From there you can see Ulan Bator and will be able to reach the city after another three to four hours walk. Alternatively you can spend quite some pleasant time in the valley amongst the ruins of the monastery, which you can see (yellow roof of rebuilt hall) on the hillside to your left when you come from the parking lot. Scramble into the rocks behind the monastery for Buddhist rock carvings. Walk back the dirt road from the Manjusri Monastery to Zuunmod, which will take you two hours. Compare the setting of the temples (both ruins) at Tsetserleg and at Zuunmod. They are very similar with the rockface behind the temple. Avoid Sundays for Manjusri Monastery as it becomes very noisy. On a weekday in March it is perfect. Even the walk up to Tsetsee Gün is easy in winter, but make sure to listen to the weather forecast. You don't want to be caught up there in a snowstorm all on your own. People ill prepared did actually die on that walk which leads over very exposed high ground, though 80% is through sheltered pine forest. It is safer to return from Tsetsee gün to Zuunmod, as the path is better marked. In summer heavy thunderstorms appear out of the blue. So even in summer take waterproofs and a pullover when going into the mountains. In bad weather you may lose orientation and have to spend the night up there. You wouldn't be the first. Along the main path there are poles with numbers. Try to remember them if you are lost. Call for help on your mobile and mention the number.
The road to Zuunmod is well paved. It even makes a nice cycle ride! There are medium-sized buses and micro-buses leaving throughout the day from the Dragon Center in Ulaanbaatar from 08:00 to 20:00.
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