
Municipality in Chiapas, Mexico
Photo: User: (WT-shared) Wandering at wts wikivoyage, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
San Juan Chamula, usually referred to as simply Chamula, is a small town in the mountainous jungles of Chiapas in southern Mexico. Chamula is the main town of the indigenous Tzotzil people (a Maya civilization who are sometimes also called the Chamula). The town feels a world apart from the rest of Mexico. Chamula is fiercely independent, they grudgingly accept the presence of outsiders, and they maintain a strong local government with its own police force that generally does not accept help from state or federal authorities.
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Church of St John the Baptist
It is the main church in Chamula, and is a must see. Inside you can see a seemingly random blend of Mayan traditions with Catholicism. The main altar shows San Juan (John the Baptist) instead of Jesus, and saints who resemble gods are lined up along the walls church. People go to church to be healed rather than to pray for salvation. They perform rituals on the church floor (covered by pine needles instead of benches) in the community of the family which usually involve a lot of candles and sometimes Pox (liquor) that is also served to small children. You must not take any photos in the church -- this is very offensive to the people and could result in your camera being confiscated as well as fines or even jail time.
St John's Cemetery
Picturesque local cemetery that's uniquely Chamula. They plant pine trees at the head of graves rather than using headstones and build a low earthen mound covered by pine needles. Many graves have flower arrangements as well, almost always marigolds. A ruined historic temple occupies the middle of the cemetery. It's a fascinating small cemetery that locals are just dying to get into!
Casual traditional food served in a spacious second-floor dining room with the best views in town. Big glass windows line the dining room which has views of the market and streets. Good snacks (antojitos).
Immaculately clean, modern coffee shop with bright inviting dining room and friendly staff. Specializes in coffee and chocolate drinks. The mint hot chocolate is a winner. Variety of breakfast plates.
Wide range of artesanias and hand crafts, especially blankets and textile products. There are also food and produce vendors.
There are colectivos to Chamula leaving all day from the zocalo (town square) in San Cristóbal de las Casas. The one-way fare for the colectivos is M$22.
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Tuxtla Gutiérrez · Regional · TGZ
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