Malinalco

One of two central squares in Malinalco, this one featuring the bandstand/kiosk. Pleasant park for strolling, relaxing and people watching.

Historic 16th-century church built by the Augustinians between 1540 and 1580. Adjacent to church is the Convento de Augustino Transfiguracion. Both the main church and the convent reflect Renaissance style and are known for their frescos, painted by various artists over a period of several decades. Flemish artist Simón Pereyns painted some of the frescoes in the late 1560s. In the convent, the Augustinians enlisted indigenous artists known as Tlacuilos who painted many of the frescoes and Mediterranean designs in the architectural detail. Parts of the church were damaged by an earthquake in 2017 and are frequently closed off for renovation.

The ruins of Malinalco seem to be carved into the cliffside, giving it a dramatic feel and natural setting. The site features six structures built in the late 15th century and early 16th century. The most famous are two temples, honoring the eagle warriors and the jaguar warriors. Malinalco was a sanctuary for Aztec warriors and was used for secret ceremonies and rituals involving high priests and probably the emperor himself. The most impressive structure is Building 1, which was carved directly into the mountain's stone walls (including the sculptures). The main staircase is flanked by jaguar sculptures and a third is in the middle of the steps (all three scultpures are badly eroded after 5 centuries of neglect and exposure to the elements). The temple doorway is carved as a snake mouth with jaws gaping open through which you walk. Additional eagle and jaguar sculptures are inside the temple. All that remains of Building 2 is a raised platform. The stones used to construct the building were plundered by the Augustinian friars in the 16th century for use in building their convent. Building 3 was also carved into the rock of the mountain and is said to have been decorated with murals, which have degraded over the centuries to the point that there is little sign of any previous artwork. Building 4 is the northernmost building at the site and you can enter it by climbing a short set of stairs. Inside is a sunken altar. The site also includes an area of pre-Aztec ruins, though the area is closed to all but archaeologists with permits from INAH. A site museum (called Museo Universitario Dr. Luis Mario Schneider) is a modern, inviting facility that documents and explains the history of Malinalco and its ruins, with a number of relics on display that were excavated during several digs in the 20th and 21st centuries.

This is one of the coolest old churches in Mexico and not just because its stunningly beautiful (which it is), but because of the cultural value behind it. Long before the Spanish invaded Mexico, and long before the Aztecs had invaded Malinalco, the indigenous population worshiped an idol of the god Oxtoteotl in the caves of Chalma. When the Augustinian friars came in and started evangelizing the native population they were going to destroy the idol, but found that it had been miraculously converted to a Christ figure and that the indigenous people would worship that just they had the idol in its previous incarnation. Locals took it as a miracle, and the Augustinians were just happy to have them worshipping Christ instead of an indigenous god. Today, the "black Christ" idol is displayed prominently inside the sanctuary, which is an active church maintained by the Diocese of Tenancingo. The church also holds a famous sculpture of the archangel Michael and a painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe. A pavilion outside the church is used for traditional dancers. There is also a spring where pilgrims cleanse themselves in the healing waters and a room filled with retablos, testaments as to miracles granted after praying to the black Christ of Chalma. The church is hugely popular and famous across Mexico. It claims to be the second-most visited shrine in Mexico (after the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City). A small village has grown up around the sanctuary for locals who make their living serving the pilgrim and tourist crowds (vendors, innkeepers, etc.), but crowds during Holy Week far outstrip the resources of the small community with an estimated 50,000 visitors vying to crowd into the small church.