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Place in Quintana Roo, Mexico
Photo: AdriLov, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Felipe Carrillo Puerto is a small traditionally Mayan town near the Mexican Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo. Ever since the development of Cancun in the 1970s, Felipe Carrillo Puerto has grown as a non-tourist city that is home for many of the staff of Mayan Riviera resorts and all of the service industries that support the tourist economy. Felipe Carrillo Puerto is often overlooked by foreign travelers, but it does have its charms and is developing a reputation as an alternative base for budget travelers who want to escape the high prices and bland character of the international cookie cutter resorts.
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Zocalo, Town Square
The town's main plaza is like zocalos across Mexico. It's a spacious open green space with towering coconut trees, paved walkways, and an adjacent colonial era church. Parque Principal is a bit unusual in that it has a stone aqueduct that may be a replica. Shops and restaurants are on adjacent streets. The bus station is next to the plaza, as are taxi sitios and the sitio for combis to Chetumal (combis to Tulum and Playa del Carmen are at a sitio about 2 blocks away on Hwy. 307).
Holy Cross Church
The town's oldest church was built during the Yucatan Caste War in the 19th century. It is a symbol of Mayan defiance and independence, though foreign visitors will sometimes dismiss it because it is not fancy nor particularly large. The church is built of stone covered by white stucco and the interior is likewise modest but tranquil and attractive. The church is known for once having been the home of the "Talking Cross", a powerful relic that is now housed in a dedicated sanctuary.
Sanctuary of the Talking Cross
The Talking Cross is a relic of the local Mayan people that was born in the cenote at this site, which is the permananent home of the cross, which frequently travels to other churches throughout the region. When in its home, Mayan elders watch over the cross while it is displayed to the public. Evening masses are conducted at the sanctuary. If you visit the sanctuary, be aware that Mayan tradition is to remove shoes when entering.
You can learn Spanish in lots of places throughout Latin America, but few schools offer Maya language programs and let you stay with local Maya families, immersing yourself in their culture as you go. Na'atik offers Spanish classes and homestay programs with Spanish-speaking families, if that's what you'd like to do, but the Maya programs are what sets them apart.
Fun, casual outdoor palapa style restaurant serving seafood and regional specialties. Buffet breakfast available on Sundays.
Excellent restaurant specializing in Yucatecan cuisine (try the papadzules!) but with a smattering of "international" dishes. Large portions, reasonable prices, friendly service.
Bright, cheery small restaurant serving fresh Yucatecan style seafood with standard dishes like shrimp or ceviche but some more unusual things like shark, or shrimp empanadas. Friendly service, large portions, reasonable prices.
Traditional seafood restaurant serving some unusual Yucatecan dishes like caracol (conch) as well as standard Mexican seafood dishes (ceviche, coctel de camarones, etc.)
Lively, casual open-air palapa style restaurant serving traditional Mexican and Yucatecan regional cuisine. Portions are generous and food is fresh with plenty of fresh fruit and vegetable options. Occasional live music. Credit cards accepted.
Casual open-air restaurant with light fare including crepes, pasta, hamburgers, and birria. Portions are large and prices are small. Ample free parking.
Small coffee shop serving espresso, cappuccino, iced coffee drinks, sandwiches and light meals. Rooftop dining area.
Moderate hotel with comfortable, well-furnished rooms with TV and air conditioning. Friendly service.
Family-run hotel with clean, comfortable rooms with TV, WiFi and air conditioning. Restaurants and markets within easy walking distance. Off-street parking available.
Budget hotel with worn but servicable rooms and furnishings.
Simple budget hotel with basic rooms that have hot showers and cold air conditioning. Cabins also available.
Basic budget hotel in the heart of downtown. Rooms are small and frequently have maintenance issues. No guest parking area.
Moderate budget hotel with clean rooms with TV and air conditioning. Has a swimming pool that is often closed. Gym available.
Comfortable, clean, well-furnished rooms with air conditioning. 1 km to Tren Maya station. Off-street parking available..
The town's main public marketplace is typical of those in larger towns with a wide selection of fresh produce and lots of sellers with prepared regional dishes including panuchos, cochinita pibil, sopa de lima and many others.
By bus
From Tulum, Mayab and ADO buses depart every hour for Felipe Carrillo Puerto. As of August 2024, the 1-hour ride will cost M$100 (US$5).
By train
The train station in Felipe Carrillo Puerto opened in May 2024. It is a short train ride to Tulum. From Cancún International Airport, it is a 3 hour train ride that costs M$743 for a foreign tourist.
By combi
Combis are shared vans that run continuously along a set route. They are extremely common in the Yucatan peninsula with routes along federal highway 307 along the entire Quintana Roo coast.
The town is very walkable, particularly el Centro. Bikes are a good way to get around town in general and a bike rental shop is located behind Holy Cross Church (Santa Cruz). Taxis are plentiful and affordable.
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Tulum · International · TQO
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