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Municipality in the Mexican state of Campeche
Photo: Comisión Mexicana de Filmaciones from México D. F., México, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Candelaria is a small town in the jungles of Campeche, on the banks of the Rio Candelaria. This is Mayan territory with the El Tigre archaeological site being the best known local ruins. It is also a magnet for naturalists who come for the jungles, the river, waterfalls, and the myriad species of plants and wildlife. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
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The town's main plaza is rather ugly by Mexican standards with far too many paving blocks and far too few trees. It is what it is, and that is ugly and uninviting on a fiercely hot sunny day. Fortunately, 99% of Mexican towns have much more attractive zocalos than Candelaria.
Itzamkanac
El Tigre is a very cool (and very large) site that is right on the Rio Candelaria. Renown during the pre-Hispanic era as an important trading center for a large area, it was also an important ceremonial site and is famous as the place where Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes executed Cuahtemoc, heir to the Aztec throne of Moctezuma. The city was the capital for the Chontal Maya and its domain spanned a large region from the Gulf Coast through much of today's states of Chiapas and Campeche. The site includes two large plazas with four large buildings. There are at least 13 temples on the site and 3 Mesoamerican ball courts, including one in the Central plaza area. The architecture is a mix of Peten, Rio Bec, and post-classic styles. Archaeologists surmise that the city had at least 10,000 residents at its peak. The archaeological site is about 50 km from the town of Candelaria and though it can be reached by a narrow, dirt jungle road, the more adventurous (and fun) way to get there is by riverboat from the Candelaria waterfront. The boats are small pangas and take about 2 hours to reach the site, departing early in the morning. Unlike many INAH-operated historical sites, interpretive guides are not available in the park, but rather are hired in Candelaria and will accompany you along the way. Group tours to the site can also be arranged in Candelaria with van picking you up at your hotel around 06:00 and returning you there the same evening.
The river starts in the Peten region of Guatemala and runs 400 km to the Laguna del Carmen. Near the town, the river is wide with a strong current but is popular for canoe trips and fishing. A malecón along the town's riverfront is a popular walkway for evening strolls. There are several waterfalls along the river including Salto Grande, Salto Toro and Salto Muerto ("Waterfall of the Dead", yeahhhh, that's what I'm talkin' 'bout!)
Scenic riverside restaurant with several palapas in a park-like setting on the river banks, each palapa with its own dining table. The food is mostly carne asada, grilled meats including beef and chicken. Several shrimp dishes are available. Full bar with large cocktails.
Friendly small coffee shop serving breakfast, sandwiches, and full dinners.
Basic restaurant that serves Yucatecan Mexican food, such as pok chuck, but often hit-and-miss service.
Stylishly contemporary Japanese restaurant with an elegant dining room with white cloth napkins and tablecloths, attentive waiters, and delicious Japanese food including a full sushi bar and favorites like teriyaki and tempura. Probably the best restaurant in Candelaria.
Small, Moderate hotel with spacious rooms, comfortable beds, and friendly service.
Modern hotel with clean, comfortable, spacious rooms with comfortable beds, cold air conditioning. Off-street parking available. No on-site restaurant. Lower floors are better because there is no elevator.
Modern upscale hotel with spacious rooms in semi-private cabins. Large outdoor swimming pool available.
Basic budget hotel with somewhat dated furnishings.
Comfortable Moderate hotel with clean, spacious rooms with cold air conditioning. Ample off-street parking. Outdoor swimming pool available. WiFi is sketchy.
By bus
From Campeche, Autobuses ATS operates one daily bus to Candelaria. The trip takes 3 hours and costs M$300.
By train
Candelaria is a full-service station stop on the Tren Maya on the section between Campeche and Palenque.
The downtown area is best navigated by walking. Renting a bike is a great way to get a feel for the town or reach further points of interest.
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Ciudad del Carmen · Regional · CME
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