Islands in Besut, Terengganu, Malaysia
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
The Perhentian Islands (Malay: Pulau Perhentian) are a small group of islands approximately 10 nautical miles (19 km) off the north-eastern coast of West Malaysia in the state of Terengganu. The islands are protected as part of the Pulau Redang National Marine Park. However, since the early 2000s they have experienced a steady environmental decline. Many coral reefs have died, and plastic pollution - both on land and in the surrounding waters - has become a serious problem.
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
Long Beach
French, English, German, Spanish, Malay spoken. Friendly staff, chillout atmosphere and mid-size dive groups. Dives are at 8AM, 11AM and 2PM. Night dives on occasion. When you are not diving you can hang out, there is a small local restaurant just beside the dive shop. They have accommodation as well in chalets, and offer packages that combine dives with nights.
Long Beach
English, French, German, Polish, Chinese and Malay spoken. Another respectable, long-running outfit (started in 1993) with locations on both islands; a nice chilled-out shop on Perhentian Kecil's Long Beach, and a relaxing shop on Perhentian Besar next to Mamma's Chalet. It offers affordable prices for courses and fun dives, and they always have small groups. The staff are very enthusiastic, friendly and always up for a chat.
Long Beach
Long Beach
Long Beach
Coral Bay
French, English, Spanish, Swedish, Malay spoken. Small, intimate shop with friendly staff, chillout atmosphere and small dive groups. When you are not diving you can hang out, use the internet (free for customers) and listen to music. Formerly Sunlight Divers.
Coral Bay
Coral Bay
Coral Bay
A PADI 5-star IDC and the only National Geographic centre in the Perhentian. Has two dive shops on Kecil's Long Beach: one adjacent to the Bubu Long Beach Resort and one at the other end of the beach adjacent to World Cafe. Also has a large dive shop on Coral Bay where dive equipment can be purchased. Offers fun dives with friendly staff, great service and small dive groups. Free wifi for customers.
Coral Bay
Coral Bay
Coral Bay
Coral Bay
A small, friendly dive centre.
An environmental friendly dive centre with own housereef on South Beach.
A small and friendly dive centre on the same beach as Perhentian Island Resort. It has modern equipment and excellent service. Dive courses and boat diving are always on offer, and the beach diving is great as well. Huge sea turtles can be seen off the beach.
Great evening buffet (all you can eat) for RM20 with BBQ food (seafood, chicken, kebabs, etc.) Live music most nights and free drinks. Nice chilled out atmosphere with free wifi too. Food during the day is set menu or similar buffet style food. The cheapest meals in Coral bay at their beach stand - fried rice/noodles RM5, 2 pcs sandwich/waffles RM5, beef/chicken burger RM5, spaghetti RM6, big water RM2. Many meals from RM6 at their proper restaurant, looks quite upmarket surprisingly compared to their low prices.
A nice restaurant with the best sea views over Coral Bay, most of the meals from RM8, water refill for RM1.5, only place with WR in Coral bay.
One of the two most popular restaurants in Coral bay, meals with reasonable prices - beef/chicken/kampung fried rice RM7, veg fried rice RM6, Thai fried rice RM8, veg fried noodles RM6, chicken fried noodles RM7 (same options with soup), fried vegetables with rice RM6, hot mango soup RM8, chicken cream soup RM8.
Simple and most popular restaurant in CB with good meals for good prices - fried rice Malay with veg&egg/Kerabu/Chinese/Kampung RM6, veg fried noodles with egg RM6, chicken/pataya fried noodles RM8, many salads from RM8, French baguettes with filling plus french fries for RM8 (same options for sandwiches), creamy soups tomato/chicken/mushrooms RM7, roti with egg/banana/onion/garlic/cheese/chocolate plus curry sauce for RM4.
Simple and most popular restaurant in CB with good meals for good prices - fried rice Malay with veg&egg/Kerabu/Chinese/Kampung RM6, veg fried noodles with egg RM6, chicken/pataya fried noodles RM8, many salads from RM8, French baguettes with filling plus french fries for RM8 (same options for sandwiches), creamy soups tomato/chicken/mushrooms RM7, roti with egg/banana/onion/garlic/cheese/chocolate plus curry sauce for RM4.
Set under big shady trees, away from the beach. A most enjoyable, popular restaurant off Coral bay, two minutes from pier next to Shari-la resort. Overall good value for money, while cheaper than most competition. Ewan is usually there and is very friendly and up for a conversation. Fast WiFi.
Cheaper than Panorama, but the meals are smaller and the place is not as swanky. Still a nice joint to have a meal and the staff are friendly. Also screen a movie at 8PM, and you will have a better chance of hearing it here.
This relaxing little restaurant with its palm-leafed roof and beanbags on the beach is a wonderful place to chill out whilst enjoying the view and eating great homemade sausages, burgers, spaghetti, pizzas and salads. They also serve good European coffee and are open for brunch as well - do try their eggs benedict or buckwheat pancakes.
Right next to the village pier, Medan Selera has a dozen or so stalls serving up cheap and tasty local fare. Rania Cafe (9AM to 5PM daily) is particularly popular for its self-service nasi campur meals, where a pile of rice with 3 toppings will cost you around RM15.
Nice beach side restaurant which was established in 2010. The friendly owners serve great tasting local and western dishes. The only public restaurant with amazing sunset views on Kecil. The other alternatives are the restaurants of the Marriott Resort.
The resort has two restaurants, one serving à la carte, the other as a deli buffet. Prices are quite high, but if you have breakfast/lunch/dinner coupons, the food is ok. Breakfast choice in May is not great, but may get better at the height of the season. There is usually a BBQ at dinner times serving fish, squid, chicken, and beef. The place is clean too, just ignore the stagnant swamp behind the resort and the rubbish along the beach.
The restaurant offers good food at good prices. RM8 for a dish of chicken fried rice, and RM11 for fried prawns with mashed potatoes.
Affiliated with the Paradise Resort, this simple but attractive restaurant is packed every night with people feasting on fresh seafood and other items on the menu. The quality of the food is very good. Prices have gone up lately but RM25 for 3 BBQ rock lobsters or RM20 for fresh barramundi in banana leaf, served with a small baked potato and salad, are still a steal by Perhentian standards. Vegetarian food is available upon request.
This is the only other largish restaurant near the north end of Perhentian Besar. Their menu is closer to typical "kampung" (village) fare; however, the nighttime BBQ fish is not to be missed - the portions are far more generous, and the spices are much bolder/fragrant than the rather plain BBQ offerings from Watercolours. As well, it is the more economical of the two restaurants. Try roti canai (local bread) for breakfast and pisang goreng (banana fritters) for dessert. Service is friendly but slow, so expect to wait over half an hour.
This little place is frequented mostly by locals and serves basic food - don't expect super tasty dishes.
It serves chilled beer.
Serves chilled beer.
Serves chilled beer.
Various types of accommodation including 24-hour electricity, dorm beds, small wooden chalets (very very simple) with fan and mosquito net to aircon rooms with beautiful views of the sea from the verandah. Food is OK. Wonderful receptionist, Dee Dee who seems to remember everyone's name.
This is the first ferroconcrete hotel on the islands, offering air-con, hot water and other creature comforts. Great views from the balcony. Excellent restaurant, but pricey compared with the rest of the beach. The resort has its own generator and 24 hour electricity.
Clean budget accommodation offers new mattresses, good sized private rooms, mosquito nets and fan. Shared bathroom, but they are spacious, clean and open concept (no roof so you feel like you're in the jungle) Really friendly owner and great staff. Have a restaurant and bar as well!. Do not try to sleep without earplugs because of loud disco until late hours every night in the neighbourhood.
Panorama offers a variety of rooms and prices, ranging from a single bed with fan (RM35) to a family style suite (two double beds, two bathrooms, and aircon - with 2 free dinners per night of stay RM140). Additionally, Panorama is a popular hub for many of those who stay on Long Beach.
After renovation it no longer offers budget or dorm rooms. It now has only exclusive rooms with air-con - probably the best on Long Beach. Prices are around RM450 a night. The cafe has good food, although a bit pricier than other places on the island, but where the cafe really shines is their excellent coffee and friendly service.
Well-worn wooden beach front huts (few more would see the beach if it weren't for a canopy they built) and larger stone huts for quite cheap. Wooden hut costs RM40 with bathroom shared by about 10 others, which could use some attention from the staff. Electricity is available from 7PM to 7AM with outlet, fan, light in all types of accommodation. Mosquito nets are usually provided. As with all the beach accommodation, security is an issue so bring your own padlock.
This clean simple family run resort has a variety of wooden rooms and bungalows with a mosquito net, a fan and a bathroom set around a beautiful tropical garden. Aircon rooms are also available. The resort also has a dive centre and dive/room packages are available
22 chalets, one dormitory and a restaurant overlooking white sand beaches and a blue lagoon abundant with fish and living coral, and offers a prime location from which to witness the island's stunning sunrise. Restaurants offers buffet at nights, with movies on big-screen projectors and if you're lucky, the Reggae Band from Langkawi comes here to perform from time to time. The restaurant area overlooks the entire beach, and wi-fi Internet is free when you dine at the restaurant.
Once the cheapest place to stay on the island and for good reason. The old cheap rooms are still available for around RM30 a night (RM40 in 2012 high season), but now you can also choose between a standard room (RM70 - RM120 in 2012 high season) and a deluxe room with air-con for RM200. Most rooms have nice views over the beach. But be warned: the nearby "beach disco" can get quite loud until 3AM.
On its own quiet beach, a 20-minute stroll down a paved jungle path from the busy beaches. Simple wooden chalets with mosquito nets, and a place to eat. All rooms with fan and sea view. Rates: room with shared bath RM50 to RM80, room with bathroom attached RM80 to RM150. Dorm RM40.
Air con dorms are RM20 with power outlets, by far the nicest on the islands, not advertised anywhere. BBQ buffet in the evening for RM15. Free drinks, free water refill and free Wi-Fi for guests in lobby. Other rooms priced from RM100 upwards which include 24-hour electricity, hot shower, satellite TV, aircon and fan in room.
In the middle of Coral Bay. BBQ buffet in the evening for RM15. Small rooms with fan priced from RM40 which includes 24-hour electricity.
The same owner as Ewan's cafe, Coral Bay. Set under big shady trees, away from the beach. Fan room for RM45 with attached bathroom.
Alunan is a 24-room boutique resort clambering up a steep hillside on Kecil's quiet south coast. All rooms are multilevel, with accommodation downstairs and a balcony/terrace upstairs. The Bayu restaurant is likely the nicest in the islands but priced to match, with some Western meals north of RM100. The real selling point here, though, is the amazing coral-packed house reef immediately next to the jetty, tended to by an in-house marine biologist, and visitors can even opt to plant their own coral in the garden. A couple of catches: despite the steep price tag there's no pool, other food or drink options nearby are very limited (although the kampung is a 15-min jungle hike away), and every day is leg day since it's quite a climb to the higher rooms.
The first branded hotel on the islands. Three pools, three restaurants, dive centre, spa, and a price tag to match. Has its own deluxe ferry from Kuala Besut, with one return trip daily.
This large resort is on Besar's nicest white sandy beach and equipped with the first swimming pool in town. Still, 5-star luxury it isn't, and some of the older, further-off chalets are downright grotty; take a look at your room first and ask to see a different one if you don't like it. It offers 24-hour electricity and water supply with heater, air-con with individual climate control, free wifi and in-room coffee/tea making service.
It is a decent option. Standard rooms are back in the jungle, so it's best to opt for a beachfront room. Air-con and fan-only rooms available. The restaurant food is good, although alcohol is not served and you are asked to not bring your own to the restaurant. No TV or kettle in the rooms.
The first in a series of near-identical no-frills chalets just south of the Coral View on the same beach, followed by Paradise Island Resort/Watercolours and Mama's. All offer basic non-air-conditioned chalets with basic attached bathrooms in the RM60-80 range.
Has clean but mostly basic non air-conditioned chalets (specifically request one if desired) with attached bathrooms. The Garden View chalets are RM 60 and the Sea View chalets are RM 80. There's not much difference between the two, although the Sea View rooms are bigger and closer to the sea. The standards huts with fan share the same roof so you can hear your neighbours. The staff are very friendly and helpful. The Watercolours Restaurant and Dive Centre is attached to this resort. For those on a budget, this makes a good place to stay. There are no power outlets in the rooms, although they do let you use the restaurant's outlets.
Mama's Place is run by Aziz, a very friendly and organized person who will go the extra mile to make your stay enjoyable. Bungalows start from RM70 for a clean fan room with private bathroom. Aziz provides snorkeling equipment, arranges transfers and is more than willing to give you advice. The attached restaurant offers basic meals for breakfast and lunch but puts on a great BBQ dinner by the sea.
One of the options on the south beach, New Cocohut offers air-conditioned chalets starting at RM130, chalets with a fan, and longhouse beds for less. The staff is friendly and helpful. The restaurant offers basic meals and beer at regular prices. However, expect run down toilets in the RM130 rooms with no water heater. The beach in front of Cocohut has some corals which could make it hard to swim at the shallow ends. 5-min walk to a nicer beach. Cocohut also runs the new Cozy Chalets. Its just next door to Cocohut, a bit uphill and you have to climb stairs to reach to the beach. These chalets offers airco and a good view.
A barebones longhouse-only operation in a creaky two-storey building, which looks like it will soon collapse and join Cozy in the dust pile of history.
One of the newer and classier hotels, offering air-con chalets from RM290, including hot showers and safety deposit boxes in every room. The seaside restaurant is also pleasant with fairly decent food and a small bar.
A very quiet and small resort. Located in a beautiful bay you can rent family and air conditioned chalets with bathroom (from around RM200). There is a restaurant and a good dive school. Friendly staff, Turtle and Reef Conservation Project. Ideal for families and those who wish to experience the islands` tranquility at its best.
Arwana is a family/student oriented resort at the very end of the beach, with reasonable room rates and a large swimming pool. Don't expect luxury or 'deluxe' as the decor is not to everyone's taste and be warned, some rooms are upstairs with no balcony. No kettle in rooms, but each room has a flask and there is free hot water on tap near the beverage counter. Air-conditioned rooms start from RM140, and there are dorms available for large groups at RM30/person. All the air-conditioned rooms have TVs with a few channels on. The staff are very helpful and can arrange your boat transfers if you haven't already. Free WiFi in the main lounge.
Quiet resort with a fan beach (RM60) and garden chalets (RM40-50). No power sockets in the rooms but electricity mostly 24 hours.
There are two resorts separated by the Fauna resort offering chalets and rooms at reasonable prices. Nice restaurant and the 2nd pool on Besar.
It had a lot of chalets and some rooms, but was reported to look deserted in 2014.
By plane
The nearest airports are at Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu, which both have near-hourly connections to Kuala Lumpur and occasional services (once daily or less) to other major Malaysian cities like…
By train
Tanah Merah, three stops before the end of the line at Tumpat, is the closest station to Kuala Besut on the famous KTMB Jungle Line from Kuala Lumpur via Gua Musang.
By boat
Speed boats from Kuala Besut, usually small fibreglass boats with two or three outboards, operate roughly hourly between 8AM and 5PM and charge a fixed RM 35/20 per adult/child one-way.
By boat or water taxi
Aside from walking, the only means of transport is by boat or water taxis.
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