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Town in Lamu County, Kenya
Photo: Erik (HASH) Hersman from Orlando, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Lamu is a town in Coastal Kenya. Its old town is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Lamu is vastly different from most cities in Kenya, most particularly due to the small number of motor vehicles and corresponding traffic. Culturally, Lamu also differs from interior of the country as it has retained its historic character as the oldest continually inhabited town in the country and one of the most important Swahili settlements.
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Constructed between 1813 and 1821 by the sultans of Pate Island, with Omani assistance. It was used as a military fortress until 1910 when the British colonial government reorganized it as a prison. It remained a prison until 1984 when it was restored and reorganized into a library and a museum of environmental conservation.
Built in 1891, the Lamu Museum was the former residence of the British Governors during the colonial era. Here, you will experience and learn about the rich Swahili culture that is ever so evident in Lamu Town.
Takwa was founded around 1500 and probably abandoned around 1700. Twice a year the people of Shela come to the Pillar Tomb in Takwa to pray for rain. Only during high tide the ruins can be reached by boat trips from Shela at around KSh 5000 per boat (up to 4 people)
Riyadha Mosque
You can explore the Lamu archipelago by dhow, a traditional Arab sailing vessel with one or more lateen sails. Dhow trips are relatively inexpensive and you can go as far as Manda Island, Takwa Ruins or Matondoni. Kiwayu is the most pristine of the islands and it is in a biosphere reserve. Prices start at Ksh 3000 for a 2-hour sunset trip with no food, and increases from there.
Lamu is a hotspot for kite surfers
On the south end of the Lamu island is a beautiful stretch of white sand and tiny broken sea shells. The walk from main Lamu town is only about a mile and a half and well worth it due to the locals you meet on the way. Watch for the young boys selling homemade samosas on the beach. They are delicious!
Lonely secluded beach on Lamu, which is accessible by boat or by a longer beach walk.
Long, wide and quiet white sand beach. Ideal for walking, but also kitesurfing, snorkelling and other water sports offered. Popular for watching the sunset.
Long, lonely sandy beach on the island of Manda with the idyllic dune landscape.
Very nice and lonely beach with white sand, good for snorkelling
Small uninhabited island with lonely dream beaches, very good for snorkelling. Take along provisions and water. Arrival from Lamu by private chartered boat, approx. 30 min. At low tide you can cross over from Manda Island.
Lamu Shawarma King
Great value local joint. Serves chicken biryani as well as small shawarma wraps (in case you need your kebab fix) and fries.
The best kept secret on Lamu Island. A truly local Swahili spot. Try the meat stew – meat so tender it breaks apart on your spoon. Strangely it's in Shela along with all the upmarket tourist joints.
Try the curry fish!
Try the garlic crab or crab soup.
Meet up and drink beer with fellow travellers.
You can also enjoy a Tusker at the Lamu Palace hotel, but this is more expensive than Petley's, and very quiet, but OK if you want to hear the waves crash against the sea wall and read a book.
Very busy bar on Friday and Saturday evenings. Floating between Manda and Lamu islands. They have an alcohol license.
Has a limited selection.
A well-established budget hotel with a rooftop restaurant. Rooms without bathroom are cheaper.
Owned by a German, this was once the budget go-to in Lamu, but has become so popular that it is now somewhat overpriced for what you get. But, it is popular for a reason. Book ahead because it is often full.
Spacious rooms at a decent price.
Nice pool, wifi and bar.
B&B in Shela.
Includes a collection of West African art.
Showcases works by local artists.
By bus
Buses run from Mombasa via Malindi. The trip from Mombasa to Lamu (or rather, to the port of Mokowe on the mainland) takes 5-7 hours depending on road conditions.
By matatu
Matatus (crowded shared taxis) run between Minjila and Mokowe, the port from which you can catch a ferry to Lamu island (see the By bus section above).
By car
It's also possible but expensive to hire a car from Mombasa or Malindi. The road is almost entirely paved as of 2025, so the journey is much smoother than it used to be.
The main forms of transport are boats and boda-boda (motorcycle taxis). The boda-boda can take you between Shela and Lamu if you want to avoid the 45-minute walk in the heat.
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Lamu · Regional · LAU
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