Town in Chūbu, Japan
Photo: Evelyn-rose, CC0 via Wikimedia Commons
Sekigahara (関ヶ原町 Sekigahara-chō) is a rural town at the western edge of Gifu Prefecture in the Chubu region of Japan. It is most famous for the October 1600 Battle of Sekigahara, but its picturesque location nestled in a small valley between mountains, combined with its complete lack of large tour buses, makes it a nice day trip from the larger nearby cities of Kyoto, Nagoya, and Kanazawa. The small size of the town and the well-marked paths between historic sites make Sekigahara even more appealing, as a visitor can traverse the entire battlefield in about a day.
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岐阜関ケ原古戦場記念館, Gifu Sekigahara Kosenjō Kinenkan
This new museum (built 2020) offers a good introduction to the battle itself. It is especially helpful because the first two exhibits (both visual media - a bird's eye view of the battle and an anime-like 4D theater movie depicting what it was like in the fray) provide the necessary background to understand how the 6-hour battle went and why Tokugawa won. The upper floors contain mainly replicas (although some original artifacts and documents are displayed) of writings relating to the battle or Tokugawa's rise to power, and then goes in depth of the aftermath of the battle and the consolidation of his rule. Kids and the young at heart will enjoy the third floor, which offers a hands-on exhibit where you can play around with different types of weapons used during the battle (such as katanas, matchlock rifles, and battle fans). The fifth floor is an observation deck that gives a panorama of the battlefield and town, and has signs (in Japanese) that indicate where each important thing is/was. The staff don't speak English and about 85% of the exhibits have English translations, but the movies have English subtitles.
国指定史跡 関ヶ原古戦場 開戦地
A marker dedicated to where the first shots of the battle were fired. It also has benches and information boards that detail the order of battle and positions.
Higashi and Nishi Kubizuka
On opposite sides of the train tracks, two shrines commemorate the sites where two large mounds of the severed heads of fallen soldiers were buried. As per traditional Japanese concepts of reverence for the dead, these shrines are dedicated to all who fell in the battle, not solely forces of one side.
床几場 Shōgiba
Also called "Tokugawa's Final Encampment", this is the spot where Tokugawa Ieyasu held a council meeting after the end of the battle and was presented with the decapitated heads of the enemy's leaders. A small shrine marks the spot.
奥平貞治の墓
A leader who fought under the traitor Kobayakawa. He died while attacking Otani Yoshitsugu's army. The grave was built here by one of his descendants.
笹尾山 Sasao yama
To the north of the town on a small hill that offers a commanding view of both the town and the battlefield. This is where Ishida Mitsunari, Tokugawa Ieyasu's main opponent and leader of the Western Alliance at the battle, based his camp. Two rows of wooden palisades flank the base of the hill, and a stairpath allows visitors to walk up to the memorial at the top. Can easily be seen from the observation deck of the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum, as well as from most of the town.
小早川秀秋陣跡
Infamous traitor to the Western Army, Kobayakawa Hideaki is considered by many historians to have tipped the battle in the Tokugawa (Eastern army's) favor. He defeated Otani Yoshitsugu and then attacked Ukita Hideie's army, throwing them into dissarray and eventual defeat. After the battle, he was made leader of Bizen Province, the province previously lead by Ukita Hideie who he betrayed and attacked, along with Mimasaka Province (both in Okayama). It is said that he went mad after the battle due to his betrayal leading to his death in 1602 at the age of 21.
岡山烽火場 Okayama noroshi-ba
To the northeast of the town, this was from where the flare was fired that signaled that the Western Alliance needed reinforcements. The signal sent a message to Tokugawa that enabled him to move his camp closer to the battlefield, boosting troop morale among the Eastern Alliance forces. Like Ishida's Encampment, this can easily be seen from most of the town.
大谷吉継の墓 Ōtaniyoshitsugu no haka
One of the westernmost memorial markers in the town, this spot marks both the encampment and final burial site of Ōtani Yoshitsugu, one of the Western Alliance's main commanders. When he realized the defections of Kobayakawa Hideaki and others and the increasingly small likelihood of Western victory, he committed seppuku, or ritual suicide. Best reached by bicycle (although it is within walking distance, it just takes longer to get to than most other sites), but the final stretch up the mountain must be walked.
関ヶ原戦国甲冑館
関ケ原古戦場 Sekigahara kosenjō
This marks the site of the bloodiest clash between the Eastern and Western armies in the Battle of Sekigahara. The monument here is flanked by the flags of the leaders of both armies, Ishida and Tokugawa.
宇喜多秀家陣跡
Ukita Hideie from Bizen Province (present-day Okayama), served as Vice Commander of the Western army, and brought the largest army on the Western Front, consisting of over 17,000 soldiers. Hideie was able to escape the battle and travel all the way to Satsuma Province (Kagoshima) before eventually being apprehended. He was spared a death sentence but was exiled to Hachijojima where he spent the rest of his life.
There are plenty of other markers and memorials scattered throughout the town, too numerous to list. The maps on the bridge over the train tracks list them with their relevant commanders.
Local history covering 6 eras from prehistoric to contemporary.
今須宿問屋場
Toiyaba were places in post towns where Daimyo and officials went to get or exchange horses, personnel, and perform various administrative tasks. They existed in every post town, however very few Toiyaba exist today. The Imasu-juku's Toiyaba is Gifu's sole remainder.
美濃国と近江国との国境
A stone monument marks the border between the former Omi Province and Mino Province. On either side of the border, there are also markers that give the modern borders of Shiga Prefecture and Gifu Prefecture.
関ケ原宿本陣跡 Sekigahara-juku Honjin-ato
Sekigahara was one of the post towns along the Nakasendo. The honjin was a designated inn where passing daimyo and other important officials would stay. Like most of the honjin, the building no longer exists. On its former site there is a marker and a tree that stood in the front garden. The rest of the former honjin now contains Hachiman Shrine. The gate of Sekigahara's honjin is preserved in the neighboring town of Tarui at Honryuji Temple.
関ケ原宿脇本陣跡
Every post town had a wakihonjin which was an inn used for daimyo when the honjin could not be used, when more than one daimyo were staying, or for lower-level vassals who could not stay in the honjin. Wakihonjin were also available for the public to stay in when daimyo were not here. The wakihonjin no longer exists, but a replica of the gate was built here with a signpost. There is an additional signpost marking the birthplace of the Priest Shido Munan (至道無難禅師生誕地) who was a Zen master during the Edo Period.
エコミュージアム関ケ原
A small museum featuring exhibits about the flora and fauna found in western Gifu Prefecture. The exhibits are interactive and fun for children.
関ケ原鍾乳洞
A 518-meter-long cave that maintains a temperature of 15 °C (59 °F) all year round. The cave has many stalagtites and stalagmites, some of which have been noted and named for their unique appearances, such as "The Giant's Foot" (巨人の足) which really does look like a giant leg and foot. It also contains fossils and there are trout in the river that runs through it. The pathway is flat and has no stairs, so it's known for being a good cave for families with younger children.
歴史民俗学習館 Rekishi minzoku gakushukan
Renewed in 2020, this museum focuses on topics other than the famous battle, from archaeological times to today.
関ケ原ウォーランド
While it's not a historic site, War Land is an open-air recreation of the Battle of Sekigahara. It includes encampments with the famous leaders marked so you can take pictures with your favorites. They also have samurai armor rentals for an additional fee so you can take pictures in the battlefield as a fighter. Armor rentals are not available in the summer due to the high risk of heat stroke. Just outside of War Land, they often host other events, such as summer umbrella (hanagasa) displays and cosmos flower viewing in the autumn.
ふうせん
A cafe across the street from the Battlefield Museum.
花伊吹
A restaurant and general store located near War Land and the Iketera Pond.
伊吹庵
Small cafeteria-style cafe with good and relatively cheap food.
まんぷく処
お松寿し
A sushi restaurant near Uoshige restaurant on the south side of town.
未来食堂
A restaurant near the Battle Commencement Marker, with views of the surrounding mountains.
魚しげ
A restaurant specializing in eel dishes, located in the heart of the southern side of town.
Kito関ケ原
A glamping spot with 3 different options; the glamping dome, the villa suite, and the dog cabin which includes a dog run for travelers with pets. All accommodations include an open-air onsen bath.
ますや旅館
An inn located at the former Sekigahara Post Town (Sekigahara-juku) on the old Nakasendo Route.
岐阜関ケ原古戦場記念館 別館
This is the museum's souvenir shop, located in a separate annex (bekkan) across from the museum. Here you can find a variety of items from clothing to stationary to pottery with the emblems of the Eastern and Western armies, as well as the emblems of some of the domains involved. There are also books and maps about the battle, as well as edible souvenirs.
By car
Sekigahara is at the intersection between Routes 365 (N-S) and 21 (E-W). To the south of the town lies the E1 (Meishin) expressway that runs between Komaki (outside of Nagoya) and Nishinomiya.
By bus
There are no public buses that transport people into or through the town.
By bicycle
Bicycles can be rented at the Tourist Center opposite the Station entrance, or at the Memorial Museum to the north of the Station.
By bus
The town-operated Fureai Bus rotates on 5 different routes, three times a day. It's not so convenient for the time-pressed traveler; you may tour by foot, bicycle, or private vehicle.
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