Jōdoji

1. 17 on the Old Temple Loop. Giants tread here before you; check out the huge straw sandals hanging from the Niōmon Gate. The striking red pagoda is a National Treasure.

1. 6 on the Old Temple Loop. The 500 statues in the Rakan Hall are an impressive sight, and best followed by a visit to the (unconnected) Maneki-Neko Museum next door, which has a whopping 1,500 statues of Japan's famous Lucky Cats.

Halfway down the Path of Literature, this is the largest temple on the hill, and #7 on the Old Temple Loop. Senkōji's specialty is the grinning Niko Niko Jizō doll, the "always smiling protector of children" that most Buddhist sages would have a fairly hard time recognizing as the boddhisattva Ksitigarbha. Look for the massive Kyō-onrō (驚音楼) bell tower, which rings in the New Year for Onomichi.

The starting point for the Path of Literature, Senkōji Park is famous for its cherry blossoms (in season); there are also great views of the Seto Inland Sea and Onomichi's massive shipyards. Located atop a small hill, the park is best reached on the Mt.Senkoji Ropeway (every 15 min between 09:00-17:15. ¥500/700 one-way/round trip adults, half-price kids).

Features a modest collection of Chinese, Japanese, and Western art and handicrafts. However, the building itself tends to attract the most attention, having been redesigned by star architect Tadao Ando in 2003.

The first stop on the Old Temple Loop, Jikoji is notable mainly for its imposing stone gate and the chance to create your own nigiri botoke, a miniature Buddha statue that is made by squeezing a lump of clay in your fist; the temple will fire the clay and send you the finished product by mail (¥1500 plus postage).