City in Kantō, Japan
Photo: Jpatokal, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Nikkō (日光) is a town of 76,000 people (2021) to the north of Tokyo, in Tochigi Prefecture. Attractions include the mausoleum of shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu (Nikkō Tōshō-gū) and that of his grandson Iemitsu (Iemitsu-byō Taiyū-in), and the Futarasan Shrine, which dates to the year 767 AD. There are also many famous hot springs (onsen) in the area. Elevations range from 200 to 2,000 m.
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東照宮
The official mausoleum of dynasty founder Tokugawa Ieyasu and the most extravagant temple in Nikko, constructed in 1634 on the order of his grandson Iemitsu, though not his actual resting place. The shrine took 2 years to complete with the efforts of 15,000 workers. Although the surrounding shrine is very ornate, the tomb itself is surprisingly simple and unassuming. While it had been believed that Tokugawa Ieyasu's body was moved here from Kunōzan Tōshō-gū in Shizuoka following its completion, 21st-century research has revealed that his body was never moved here and remains in Shizuoka.
薬師堂
The Hall of the Medicine Buddha is known for a dragon painting on the ceiling. A monk is usually on hand to speak (Japanese only, some broken English if you're lucky) and strike a special block which produces a sharp, piercing echo if struck directly below the dragon's mouth. This is said to be identical to the cry of a dragon — not quite the roar of English legend but an attention-getter all the same.
陽明門
An incredibly ornate gate with over 400 carvings squeezed in. To the right of the main hall is the way to Ieyasu's tomb. Look out for another famous carving, this time of a sleeping cat (nemuri-neko). There are 200 stone steps, and steep ones at that; and then you finally reach the surprisingly simple gravesite.
大猷院廟
Iemitsu, the 3rd Tokugawa Shogun and grandson of Ieyasu, is buried here. Smaller, although much more beautiful than Tōshōgū. The main hall and mausoleum can only be viewed from outside. Unlike Tōshōgū, the tomb is not accessible to the public.
東照宮宝物館
A small museum of artifacts related to Tōshōgū and the Tokugawa dynasty. The introductory video is quite good, and the fascinating half-Japanese, half-Western suit of armor that Ieyasu is said to have worn at the Battle of Sekigahara is worth a look, but the rest of the exhibits are a bit lackluster: old scrolls, swords and knickknacks. The cafe is a nice place for a break though. Tickets can be bought in combination with the shrine or separately.
輪王寺
Founded by Shodo Shonin, the monk that introduced Buddhism to Nikko in the 8th century. Known for its three large Buddha figures (at the Sanbutsudoh Hall portion of Rinnoji Temple) and for the beautiful and peaceful Shōyō-en Garden (逍遥園), the entrance price allows you to see one of the three Buddhas and the renovation works.
二荒山神社
It was founded in 782 by Shodo Shonin, the monk that introduced Buddhism to Nikko in the 8th century. The existing structure, built in 1617, is the oldest in Nikko. The shrine is dedicated to the spirits of Nikko's three holy mountains: Mt. Nantai, Mt. Nyoho, and Mt. Taro.
神橋
This much-photographed red bridge separates the shrines from the town of Nikko. In feudal times, only the shogun was permitted to cross the bridge, and even today it's barred from pedestrian traffic — although there's a 4-lane highway rumbling right past. You can get a nice view from the sidewalk, but to set foot on the bridge and look down into the gorge below, you'll have to buy a ¥350 ticket from the booth nearby.
滝尾神社 Takino-o-jinja
This often overlooked mountain shrine is situated slightly up the mountain behind Toshogu and provides a welcome relief from the more crowded areas of Sannai. It takes its name from the picturesque waterfall that greets you at the base of the entrance. You can get there by walking for about 15-20 minutes along an ancient and atmospheric stone path that begins behind the Toshogu Shamusho (office). This path also features several other notable sites such as the Kyosha-do Hall (Japanese Chess pieces are left here as offerings for hopes of a safe birth), the worship hall Kaisan-do and the gravesite of Shodo-Shonin (the latter two are maintained by Rinnoji Temple).
憾満ヶ淵
A long series of jizo protector statues on the side of a hill, some adorned with hats and bibs, some crumbling with age, with a river, small waterfalls and rapids below. Legend says that the statues change places from time to time, and a visitor will never see them in the same order twice. It can be tricky to find - at Shinkyō, instead of heading up the steps to the temple area, follow the road around to the west (to the left, if you crossed over the bridge) and walk roughly half an hour following the river - look for signs along the way. You will be walking through a residential area. If you pass the Turtle Inn, you are heading in the correct direction.
日光田母沢御用邸記念公園
Built for the Emperor Taisho in 1899, the former imperial villa also served as a hide-out for Hirohito during World War II.
Has plenty of the local flora and gardens that were said to be favorites of the Emperor Taisho. It's now an adjunct to Tokyo University.
華厳滝
One of Japan's top 3 waterfalls, Kegon Falls features a 97-meter drop. A viewpoint offers spectacular photo opportunities. In the winter, the falls freeze, offering a unique scene.
Offers plenty of hiking opportunities.
Woodsman's Village is a place in the beautiful hills of Nikko, where one can rent a log cabin for a certain length of time to stay in. Also, there is an option for renting a barbecue grill.
Home arena of Nikkō Ice Bucks of the Asia League Ice Hockey. No competition day, play ice skating.
日光湯本温泉スキー場
Near Lake Yunoko and Yumoto Hot Spring.
Enshrined in Lonely Planet, every other foreign tourist to Nikko seems to stop here for yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) and noodles, so you might as well join the crowd. Every available space is plastered with business cards and scribbled recommendations from visitors. Their menu contains several vegetarian options as well. The food is nothing special, but it's cheap, cheerful and has menus in many languages.
Wagyu (Japanese beef) steak restaurant. Reservation needed. The dress code is not too strict, but no sandals, no running wear.
そば処 玄庵
Roughly at the halfway point of the long slog between the shrines and the train stations, Gen-an features homemade soba noodles, hot or cold, with your choice of tofu skin, chicken or tempura shrimp. The other drawcard is the wacky collection of violins and other stringed instruments mounted on every available inch of the walls, including a banjo made from a giant Japanese beer can. English menu.
カフェレストラン ベル
Either stop for a quick break with a hot beverage and some of their sweets, or go all in and taste yuba in various forms by ordering the yuba festa ("monk's diet"). Other dishes include ramen, curry, toast and more.
ラーメン梵天 日光店
If you're searching for dinner in Nikkō, you might very well end up here as it's one of the few places with a lot of space that's open in the evening. The ramen may not be the cheapest, but the bowls are big and they taste good. The spicy char siu ramen have an adequate spice level for westerners, the super spicy only if you're used to it. Expect queues of a few tourists around 19:00 as everyone's desperate to find a place for dinner; waiting time can be passed sitting on the benches in front of the store.
A remote hostel, surrounded by nature on the riverside with an ambient chillout lounge overlooking the river. Great Western breakfast.
日光杉並木ユースホステル
鳴沢ロッヂ
A Japanese traditional guest house.
A traditional Japanese guest house, located a few minutes from the Tobu and JR stations. Friendly owners.
東観荘
A traditional Japanese guest house walking distance to the UNESCO World Heritage shrines and temples. The staff are helpful and friendly. The rooms are very clean, and the futons are comfortable. They have private half baths (sink and toilet). The main bathtub/onsen is public (shared among hotel guests), but you can reserve the private "family bath" for 50 minutes during your stay for no extra charge — this is a great way to get a private onsen experience, plus the antechamber to the private onsen has a sink and hair dryer. The dinner (¥3000 per person, served in a common dining room, reserve dinner time at check in on a first-come, first-serve basis — reservations for dinner can also be made at time of room booking) a great value (many dishes) and cultural experience. Breakfast is available for ¥1000, first service at 07:30. There is free coffee and tea in the lobby, as well as a public use computer with Internet. Information packets (in the guest room) are translated into English, Mandarin Chinese, Korean, and Spanish.
About 15 minutes on foot from Shinkyō Bridge, in a quiet area near the Kanmangafuchi Abyss; includes a hot spring bath and internet access.
日光パークロッジ
This laid-back, friendly and unapologetic lodge is about 20 minutes' walk from the town center, although the owner is happy to provide rides to and from the train stations (and to the temple area in the morning). There are twin, double and four-person rooms at ¥3990 per person. English is spoken. The lounge has comfortable sofas and a warm stove for the winter. Although most of the rooms have showers, there are lovely Japanese-style hot baths on the first floor. Zen yoga classes are offered every morning at 07:00 for ¥300. A simple breakfast is ¥395 and the vegan 'zen' dinner (¥1800, reservation required) is recommended, but be prepared to spend a couple of hours waiting for your meal after the advertised starting time. Parking is available.
About ten minutes to the temple area; includes a hot spa bath and internet access.
ロヂテ サンボア
A strangely French name for a pleasant little guesthouse a short walk from Tobu Nikko station. Run by an old Japanese couple who moved here for the quiet life. The guesthouse has small and cosy western style rooms, a communal Japanese bath, and serves excellent breakfasts and dinners. Lifts to and from the station are easily arranged. Adequate English is spoken, credit cards accepted, free LAN internet in the lobby.
湯守釜屋
Japanese and Western-style rooms.
千姫物語
Modern ryokan with both traditional Japanese and Western Japanese rooms. Indoor and outdoor hot springs available 24 hours/day. Impeccable traditional Japanese dinners utilizing a multitude of fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. Choice of Western or Japanese style breakfast. Very personal service, English spoken well. Every room has a beautiful view of the Otani River. About 300 m from Tōshōgū Shrine.
奥の院ホテルとく川
Traditional ryokan tucked away in the hills about 1.5km and a world away from the shrines. All rooms have Western beds but are otherwise fully Japanese in style with tatami mats etc. Gorgeous garden, large public baths with sauna, jacuzzi and indoor and outdoor tubs, and ludicrously lavish dinner service. If you pony up ¥10000/person extra for rooms in the "Aqua" annex, you'll get a personal hot tub as well.
日光金谷ホテル
The oldest surviving Western-style hotel in Japan, having opened in 1873.
By train
Nikko has two major train stations: Nikkō Station, served by Japan Railways (JR), and Tōbu-Nikkō Station, appropriately served by the private Tōbu railway.
By bus
Tohoku Express Bus operates one daily round-trip service from Tokyo Station, reaching Tobu-Nikko station in 3 hr. The trip costs ¥2500 one way or ¥4000 round trip.
The JR and Tobu stations have Tourist Information Centers open during daytime hours. Both stations are about 2 km to the west of the shrine area.
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