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Prefecture capital and Core city in Chūbu, Japan
Photo: 663highland, CC BY 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons
Nagano (長野) is the capital of Nagano prefecture, in the Chubu district of Japan. It flourished as a temple city of Zenkō-ji, a famous temple.
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善光寺
This temple, built in the 7th century, is a major pilgrimage site. Its major draw is the hibutsu (秘仏), or hidden Buddha. Its replica statue dating from the 15th century is displayed to the public every six years (the last time was in 2022, one year postponed for COVID19. The next is due 2027). A major renovation of the great inner gate was finished in 2007. You can see a beautiful row of houses along the street. There are restaurants with atmosphere. You can also buy a talisman as a souvenir.
西之門よしのや
A sake brewery with attached restaurant and shops, all housed in traditional buildings. The brewery has a small free museum, though it consists of little more than some historic photographs and a view of the stainless-steel brewing equipment.
長野県立美術館
Reopened in a new building in 2021. The prefecture's premier art museum. The Higashiyama Kaii Gallery showcases the tranquil landscapes (depicting Northern Europe as well as Japan) of one of the masters of nihon-ga (traditional "Japanese-style painting").
川中島古戦場
Kawanakajima Battlefield is the site of the famous battles fought between Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin in the 16th century, most notably the fourth battle in 1561. The battlefield was part of the wider plain where the forces of the two warlords repeatedly clashed during the Sengoku period. Today the site is a peaceful park with a shrine, monuments and information panels, including a statue depicting the legendary confrontation between Shingen and Kenshin. Little of the original battlefield survives, but it is an interesting stop for visitors interested in Japan's samurai history.
戸隠神社
Togakushi Shrine is a complex of five Shinto shrines in the forested mountains northwest of Nagano, associated with Japanese mythology and the legend of the sun goddess Amaterasu. The shrines are spread across the area, with the Okusha (Upper Shrine) reached by a roughly 2-km approach through an avenue of towering Japanese cedars, many several centuries old. The complex also includes the Chūsha (Middle Shrine), known for its large sacred tree, and the Hokosha (Lower Shrine). Togakushi is also famous for its soba noodles and hiking trails.
びんずる, 賓頭盧
Nagano's big summer festival, held on the first Saturday in August. Every year, more than 200 groups take part in this festival. They walk and dance through Chuo-dori, clacking together wooden scoops called shamoji. The festival's name comes from the Japanese version of Indian Buddhist saint Pindola Bharadvaja, and the procession ends at Zenkoji temple where festival-goers rub a well-worn Binzuru statue for luck.
加賀井温泉 一陽館
This unusual onsen has separate long narrow flowing indoor baths with brown water for males and females, and two outdoor mixed baths. Bring a large towel.
大室温泉まきばの湯
Has a large outdoor bath (rotenburo) with magnificent views across the Zenkouji Plain to the Northern Alps. Great anytime, but best in winter.
松代大本営跡
Large underground bunker complex built during the Second World War, it was meant to protect the Emperor and the central organs of government, but Japan surrendered before its completion.
ハングリーキャタピラーカフェ
Great sandwiches. Many of the foods enjoyed by the Very Hungry Caterpillar can be found on the menu. There are many other nice cafes and restaurants in the charming courtyard at the rear.Shinsyu soba is famous in Japan. It is healthy, delicious and cheap.
半兵ヱ
If the archaic kana above was not a big enough hint, this is a post-war themed izakaya. Fairly intimate dining for an izakaya with bar seating, tight booths and a tatami room for groups. The bar seating in particular wraps around the kitchen so you can see the staff cooking up a traditional Japanese storm. The walls are covered in war-time or post-war advertising right down to the old backwards right-to-left hiragana こばた ads and utterly bizarre airline ads. Music fits, too. No English and the menus lack any images whatsoever and are written 100 percent in kanji, but if this is no problem, you will be treated to a very pleasant surprise: the prices match the theme.
Western-style pool/dart bar. Hip Hop nights and the occasional tattoo show.
Small centrally-located nightclub.
A 200-year-old sake brewery that has opened a microbrewery. Free sake and beer tasting on site and excellent locally made beers.
パーレイ
The gaudy facade is shaped like a pirate ship and the interior won't disappoint. Apart from the electronic dart board, the theme is largely complete and flawless. Even the toilets follow the theme. Really. There's a cargo hold themed bar downstairs, too. This place attracts a young, upbeat crowd. The staff are cheerful, regularly cosplay as characters from Pirates of the Caribbean, and are fans of Gantz.
Owner very friendly with good English. Facilities are very good and clean.
森と水バックパッカーズ
Easy-going, convenient budget hostel. Pleasant English-speaking staff can supply tourist and outdoor activity information. Kitchen, living room, hot showers, free WiFi available to all. No curfew. Train lovers welcome!
善光寺教授院ユースホステル
Housed in a former temple building a few blocks from Zenkoji Temple. Owner speaks basic English, and is more than happy to use it.
御本陳藤屋
An elegant old traditional inn, founded in 1661 as a stage along the Northern Country road. The current building was constructed in 1923 and is a superb example of Taisho-era Western-style architecture.
犀北館ホテル
With a history of over 120 years, the Saihokukan Hotel is the choice hotel of the Emperor and his family when they visit Nagano semi-annually. The restaurants found within the hotel emphasize `slow food` methods of natural and healthy food preparation. Also a popular wedding venue with various styles and settings within and above the art laden walls.
八幡屋礒五郎
A 280-year-old store specializing in shichimi ("seven flavors"), a condiment consisting of ground chili peppers, sesame, citrus, and other spices, commonly sprinkled on soba noodle soup. Yawataya's distinctive tin containers are a fixture in soba shops throughout Japan.
By bus
Highway buses from Tokyo depart from the terminal in Shinjuku, and from the Sunshine City Prince Hotel in Ikebukuro. The trip takes around three and a half hours, and the fare is ¥4000 one-way.
There are buses that loop around the city center called the Gururingo (ぐるりん号). If you stay within the main area a ride is only ¥100.
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Matsumoto · Regional · MMJ
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