City in Chūgoku, Japan
Photo: renfield kuroda from Tokyo, Japan, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Hagi (萩市 Hagi-shi) is one of Japan's most beautiful castle towns, with many old streets and residences that have survived untouched in this town of 50,000 people (2016).
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
萩城跡 Hagi-jō
Hagi Castle was built in 1604 by the Mōri Clan serving as the political center of the Chōshū Domain for over 250 years. After the Chōshū helped topple the shogunate, they took the lead the nation in modernization. As leaders, they wanted to set an example for everyone by dismantling a primary symbol of the feudal era in their own domain; Hagi Castle. Stone walls, the moat, and gardens mark the remains of the castle today. Plum blossoms line the moats and cherry blossoms bloom throughout the castle grounds in the late winter and spring respectively. Admission includes the Mōri House, which is just south of the park.
指月公園 Shizuki-kōen
Surrounding the castle ruins, this park is a popular spot for cherry blossom parties in the spring. Also here are a small shrine, a teahouse, the Jozangama pottery kiln (城山窯), and a hiking path leading up to the peak of Mt. Shizuki (about 140 m).
旧厚狭毛利家萩屋敷長屋
A longhouse dating back to 1856 belonging to the Asa Mōri family, descendants of Mōri Motonari who were granted land in Asa (present-day Sanyo-Onoda). It was part of a larger estate that included the main house and other buildings however, none of the other buildings remain. Since it is a longhouse, each section is opened as their own exhibit. As you walk from one end to the other, you can see inside and learn about the house and Hagi samurai life.
萩キリシタン殉教者記念公園
The park contains the graves of Christians exiled to Hagi from Nagasaki in 1868 with a monument for Christian martyrs. It is also associated with the story of Kumagai Motonao and Amano Motonobu. During the construction of Hagi Castle, the two men were accused of stealing stones meant to be used to make the castle walls causing a 2 month delay in the castle's construction. Mōri Terumoto, who worked directly under the Tokugawa, had the two men and their entire families killed over the incident however, rumors at the time suggested the two men may have been killed for being hidden Christians and the stolen stones story was fabricated as a cover up.
青木周弼旧宅
The home of Aoki Shusuke (1803–1863), a doctor and prominent scholar in Dutch medicinal studies. He was the personal doctor of the feudal lord Takachika Mori and treated Takasugi Shinsaku, who would light the spark that would lead to the end of the Tokugawa, for smallpox at the age of 10. The house is divided into the public doctor's office and the family area.
木戸孝允旧宅
A student of Shoin Yoshida at the local Meirinkan, later in life, at the behest of mentor Sakamoto Ryoma, Kido Takayoshi (1833 – 1877) joined Takamori Saigo and Toshimichi Okubo to form the new government during the Meiji Restoration and establish the Five Charter Oath, which abolished the provinces and created the modern prefectures.
菊屋家住宅 Kikuya-ke Jūtaku
The Kikuya merchant family lived in style, with a large house and a lovely garden. Today, their house is open to the public with over 5,000 period items on display, from dolls to a vintage phone booth.
旧久保田家住宅
The Kubota family were kimono merchants who moved to Hagi from Omi Province (present-day Shiga). Subsequent generations abandoned kimono-making to start a sake brewery.
口羽家住宅
Built between the late 18th century and early 19th century, it's one of the oldest samurai residences in Hagi. It was home to one of the domain's top officials. The house has a nice view of the Hashimoto River.
旧益田家物見矢倉
The Masuda from Masuda in Iwami Province lived here, but it is also believed to have been a secret spy location with a tower used to monitor who entered and exited the castle town.
明倫館
Established by the Choshu-han, this school for gifted children used to be on the third floor of Hagi Castle, but moved to its own facilities in 1863. The school building is still in use as a part of elementary school. Visitors are free to tour the grounds, but not the interior.
萩博物館
Built in 2004, this museum has exhibitions about samurai Yoshida Shoin and Takasugi Shinsaku.
高杉晋作誕生地
A highly-influential samurai who trained at the Shoka Sonjuku. He was the first to create a militia that recruited commoners that became known as the Kiheitai. After witnessing the defeat of his domain by Western powers, he pushed for modernization in the military, giving rifles to his Kiheitai soldiers. The simple belief that modernization would benefit Japan evolved into anti-Tokugawa sentiment as the Tokugawa actively opposed modernizing. He and his army won a civil war in the Choshu Domain to oust supporters of the Tokugawa and fended off direct attempts by the Tokugawa to regain control with weapons he'd imported from abroad. Other domains took note and began siding with the Choshu having proven their superiority. Although he died of tuberculosis in 1867, his leadership created the momentum that toppled the bakufu the following year.
The house remains with exhibits facing outside for visitors (you cannot step into the house). The well outside is where he was bathed after his birth.
田中義一誕生地
A signboard marks the location of the former Prime Minister's birthhome. Nothing remains of the house, but those interested in the man should visit the Tanaka Villa further south in the Hiyako area.
山口県立萩美術館・浦上記念館
Features displays of Asian pottery and Japanese ukiyo-e (wood-block prints).
旧児玉家庭園
Former residence of a high-ranking samurai. It has its own docking port connected to the Hashimoto River that allowed the family to come and go by boat directly from their home. A nice garden was built around the docking port that you can still see today.
旧田中別邸
The summer villa of Tanaka Giichi who served as a decorated member of the Imperial Army before becoming Prime Minister of Japan from 1927-1929. As a military officer, he influenced armywide policies and developed strategies that aided in Japan's victory in the Russo-Japanese War. After the war, he worked in Manchuria to protect Japanese interests and directed the military to go after Communists and stifle Chinese attempts at reunifying with ambitions to make Manchuria a part of the Japanese Empire and expanding from there. Not long after he became Prime Minister, the ruler of Chinese Manchuria and ally of Japan, Zhang Zuolin, was assassinated by rogue members of the Japanese army. The assassination was condemned in both China and Japan. After Emperor Hirohito made a statement against Tanaka, he and many members of his cabinet stepped down. He died just a few months after resigning.
The villa features pictures and items of Tanaka, along with his army uniforms. Outside there is a natsu mikan orchard, which was planted by the man who lived here before Tanaka.
旧萩藩御船倉
A structure built to house the ships that were being constructed to protect Hagi from nautical attacks. The sea once reached the boathouse, so ships could enter and exit the port.
旧小池家土蔵
A storehouse believed to have been used to house cargo from Hamasaki Port.
旧山中家住宅
The Yamanaka family were local seafood salesmen. They sold from here as well as sending fish to buyers in Kansai. Visitors can see items from the former business used by the Yamanaka's.
旧山村家住宅
A wealthy family, the Yamamura's had their main house, a teahouse, and a storehouse around a central garden.
梅屋七兵衛旧宅
A sake brewer and local arms dealer, he traveled in secret to Nagasaki to procure 1000 Chinese guns for the Choshu Domain, which helped them win the Boshin War and eventually bring down the Tokugawa shogunate.
笠山
It is the smallest active volcano in East Asia, and offers panoramic views of the Sea of Japan. Look for the lovely camellia flowers during February and March.
明神池
A small pond at the foot of the mountain, which houses saltwater fish.
萩反射炉 Hansharo
This massive furnace was built in 1858 for the production of modern weapons, but rarely used. It's partially in ruins today, but still an impressive sight.
恵美須ヶ鼻造船所跡
The shogunate had banned shipbuilding in the provinces to avoid uprisings however, as outsiders took more interest in Japan, the ban was lifted in 1853 and within a few years the Choshu Domain began building warships with new Western technology from Russia and the Netherlands. The ruins of the shipyard were registered as part of Hagi's World Heritage listing.
阿字雄の滝
A unique waterfall that falls down columnal joints from the Abu Volcanoes.
松蔭神社 shōin jinja
A Meiji-era shrine dedicated to Yoshida Shōin, a young samurai who taught many of the students that went on to become major statesmen in Meiji Japan. Yoshida himself would not see it, though; chafing under the policy of sakoku, he tried to persuade Commodore Perry to smuggle him out of Japan, was imprisoned, and was later executed after plotting against the shogunate. Within the grounds of the shrine, his school Shōka-sonjuku (松下村塾) is preserved. There is also a hall dedicated to his life story (09:00-17:00, ¥650).
伊藤博文旧宅 itō hirobumi kyūtaku
The former residence of Hirobumi Itō, the aforementioned first Prime Minister of Japan, and himself a former Shoin student. He served four terms as prime minister and drafted the Meiji Constitution. After serving as Prime Minister, he went on to secure the signing of the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1907, which gave Japan power over Korean affairs, and instated himself as Resident-General of Korea. Although Ito intended to make Korea a protectorate, a vote for annexation and internal pressure from the Imperial Army led him to agree to annex it. It didn't end up mattering, though, because his initial hesitancy was enough to get him ousted from his position by more rabid supporters. A few months after his ousting, he was assassinated on his way to meeting a Russian diplomat by a Korean nationalist. He was featured on the 1000 yen banknote from 1963-1986.
Here, you can not only see his childhood home but the residence he built in Tokyo was moved here and placed beside it. Even without knowing his story, his journey to higher status is clear when comparing the houses side-by-side.
東光寺
This is the family shrine of the Mori clan. The beautiful gate, belfry, and temple buildings show Chinese influence; behind the temple are the graves of several Mori warlords — and 500 stone lanterns to mark their power. It's a short walk east of Shoin Shrine.
玉木文之進旧宅
The home of Yoshida Shoin's uncle who first established the Shoka Sonjuku as a local private school.
藍場川
It was built for transportation of goods, and also to supply water for extinguishing fires. Today, the path along the canal makes for a nice stroll.
長門峡
The gorge was featured in the ukiyoe series Selected Views of Japan by Hasui Kawase in 1922 and recognized as a National Place of Scenic Beauty in 1923. The gorge follows the Abu River from Yamaguchi to Hagi via a 5.1km hiking trail.
大照院
The Mori warlords who aren't at Toko-ji are buried here - along with the graves of several retainers, who committed seppuku upon the death of their masters. The atmosphere at Daisho-in is strikingly calm, though, compared to the pomp of Tokoji. Daishoin is listed among the temples of the Chugoku 33 Temple Pilgrimage.
観音院
Part of the Chugoku 33 Temple Pilgrimage, Kannon-in, also known as Tamae Kannon (玉江観音), was built overlooking the Hashimoto River. It is said that private meetings were held here by some of Hagi's most prominent and influential figures in the years leading up to the fall of the shogunate. The temple offers an incredible view of Mount Shizuki, the castle town, and the Sea of Japan.
熊谷美術館・熊谷家住宅
Located in the former residence of the salt-merchant Kumaya family, the museum features over 3000 items from the family's collection, such as paintings from Sesshu and a Siebold piano (the oldest piano in Japan).
大板山たたら製鉄遺跡
Traditional iron-smelting technology (tatara) from the ancient Kibi Kingdom in Okayama, traditionally used for swords, was given new purpose in Hagi to produce iron for warships. The Heishin-maru is one of the ships known to be made with this iron. Today the ruins are listed as part of Hagi's World Heritage listing.
佐々並市伝統的建造物群保存地区
A small town built along the Hagi Okan (萩往還) in the Edo Period to connect the capital of Nagato Province (Hagi) to the capital of Suo Province (Hofu). It was used by travelers as a resting point with inns and shops. Many of the buildings still exist today.
旧小林家住宅
A former inn along the Hagi Okan.
旧湯川家屋敷
A samurai residence that uses water from the canal to form an attractive garden. The water is even directed into part of the house for domestic use.
桂太郎旧宅
The second-longest serving Prime Minister of Japan who served from 1901 to 1913 and the first to be removed from office after a no-confidence vote, this is his childhood home. He studied at the Meirinkan from here. He was well-accomplished before becoming Prime Minister as a general in the Sino-Japanese War and the Governor-General of Taiwan. As Prime Minister, he oversaw Japanese victory in the Russo-Japanese War and the annexation of Korea. His popularity waned as the public believed he was more concerned with military expansion than with improving domestic life. Eventually the Diet also lost faith with a no-confidence vote.
The house has a nice garden with a statue of Katsura Taro.
渡辺蒿蔵旧宅
Considered a leader in shipbuilding who helped construct the Tategami dock, said to have been the best dock in all of Asia at the time. In his youth, Watanabe studied at the Shoka Sonjuku before traveling to the United States and United Kingdom to study naval architecture. He returned to become one of the heads of the Nagasaki Shipyard. The house is larger than most in Hagi. In addition to the main house, there is also a storehouse, a tearoom, and a garden.
萩八景遊覧船
The Hagi Tourist Association runs pleasant cruises on the Hashimoto River and the Sea of Japan, with a guide to direct attention to the Eight Fine Views.
俥宿 天十平
Rickshaw tours of the historic sections of the city center. They have standard itineraries to match the tour length, but substitutions can be made.
柚子屋本店
The natsumikan is a citrus fruit that's grown in many local gardens, and squeezed into a tasty juice. At Yuzuya Honten, you can buy natsumikan and other local fruits whole, enjoy them as ice cream, or lend a hand at turning them into juice or marmalade. It's on a peninsula directly north of the city — either take a cab or walk west from JR Koshigahama Station.
須佐湾遊覧船ジオクルージング
A cruise of the bay to enjoy local geological features along the coast with the hornfels cliffs as the main highlight. Advance reservations required.
萩城下の古き雛たち
Hina doll displays are set up in many of the historic samurai residences in the Horiuchi area. On the last day of the festival, there is a ceremony where girls put special dolls in the waters of the Aibagawa Canal called nagashibina.
萩焼まつり
This festival is at the beginning of May. About 50 pottery shops from around the city come to the City Gymnasium to exhibit and sell their wares. It's a great opportunity to buy hagi-yaki at a low price.
萩夏まつり
This festival at the beginning of August. On the first day, about 8,000 fireworks are lit over the sea off Kikugahama.
萩万灯会
The lanterns surrounding the Mori Clan graves are lit up at Daishoin Temple on August 13 and at Tokoji Temple on August 15
萩時代まつり
During weekends in November, this festival involves people in traditional Choshu garb on parade through the center of town.
あじろ
Kaiseki sets of the best of the local seafood catch. May not be suitable for single diners.
ふじたやそば店
A local institution — though a bit tricky to find — Fujitaya serves hot tempura and other dishes, but the specialty is seiro-soba, in which tasty soba noodles are delivered to your table in a steaming basket.
網焼きレストラン 見蘭
A grill restaurant known for Kenran Beef from a local farm. It can be eaten as steak, yakiniku, and in other dishes. In the same complex, they also have the Midoriya Honten, which in addition to offering meat to buy directly, they have foods that you can eat while you walk, such as croquettes and fried beef cutlets, as well as takeaway bentos, all of which feature their signature Kenran Beef.
庭園カフェ 畔亭
Lunch sets in a lovely garden setting, in Jokamachi. Later in the evening, the same folks run Sam's Irish Pub (see Drink).
季節料理 いすず
Sea urchin and other tasty sea critters.
丹吾亭
Delicious, freshly caught seafood, including knockout sashimi.
満悦
A Chinese restaurant serving ramen, gyoza, fried rice, and other popular Chinese dishes.
かくれ椿
A lunch-only curry restaurant that also serves hot sandwiches.
ナマステキッチン 萩
An Indian curry restaurant.
An Italian restaurant with a variety of pasta dishes and Italian wines.
たぬき
The restaurant offers 25 different kinds of udon dishes.
長屋門珈琲 カフェ・ティカル
A traditional café with specialty coffee.
惺々庵
A café with a beautiful Japanese garden, right by the Kikuya House. They have a selection of hagi-yaki on display.
こづち
An izakaya with seafood and locally-made alcohols.
グラン・ジュテ萩
A hotel with "cottage" rooms that are a bit more spacious than typical hotel rooms. They offer single and family "cottages".
萩ロイヤルインテリジェントホテル
A good business hotel. Amenities include Internet access and a breakfast of rice balls & miso soup. Rooms have private baths, but there's a small public bath available.
萩ユースホステル
Excellent location near the castle ruins. 68 bed hostel with some single rooms. Bicycle rentals available.
はやし屋旅館
A traditional ryokan in the isolated Sasanami Historic District.
須佐湾エコロジーキャンプ場
Tent campsite, with huts and cottages.
萩ゲストハウスRuco
Has a Japanese-style room, a Western-style room, and a mixed-gender room.
ビジネスホテル長谷川
An average business hotel.
萩本陣
Western and Japanese-style rooms in a hotel eight stories tall, with a rooftop lounge and some very nice public baths.
萩焼の宿 千春楽
A hot spring inn with easy access to the beach at Kikugahama. The rooms aren't quite sparkling, but the armored samurai mannequins guarding the lobby ought to keep away any troublemakers.
萩一輪
A hotel with a view of the Sea of Japan that offers rooms with private onsen. They also have additional offerrings (some for extra fees), such as massages, rental bikes, kimono rentals, and hagi-yaki painting. Reservations cannot be made for single travelers.
北門屋敷
Elegant Japanese-style rooms with a beautiful garden and outdoor baths. Good seafood dinners as well.
萩の宿・常茂恵
The height of luxury in Hagi — this is a gorgeous ryokan with a raked-stone garden, onsen, free pick-up from the train station, and more.
萩焼
It is the local form of Japanese pottery and the top souvenir from a trip to Hagi. It is unique because of the way it reacts to water; over time, you'll notice delicate changes in its color. A few pottery shops offer visitors the chance to cast their own hagi-yaki — check with a tourist information office to see what is available.
田町商店街 Tamachi shōtengai
It runs through the center of town with an array of small shops, modern and traditional.
萩しーまーと Hagi shīmāto
A complex of shops and restaurants that sell fresh seafood and hagi-yaki.
ジョイフルセンター須佐
Souvenir shop that offers fresh and special seafood.
萩ぷりん亭
As the name suggests, they make their own puddings that you can purchase as a unique local souvenir. They also sell soft-serve that you can eat while you walk.
By train
The closest Shinkansen station is Shin-Yamaguchi. Many Hikari and a few Nozomi trains stop there.
By bus
By bus
The Hagi Junkan Maaru Bus (萩循環まぁーるバス) runs 07:00-19:00 to almost all of the tourist sights.
By bicycle
Most of the major sights can be easily reached by bicycle. You can rent one at several places around town, such as JR Higashi-Hagi Station and Hagi Castle.
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