Syracuse (Italy)

The first sight you reach after crossing the bridge are these remnants of a temple to Apollo, with two columns and part of the wall. You can't enter, just look over the railings.

This was built as a Greek Temple of Athena in the 5th century BC on older foundations. In the 7th century it was converted to a church, incorporating most of its former construction including the Doric columns. In the 9th century, it became a mosque; in the 11th century the Normans converted it back into a church adding a new roof with mosaics in the apses. Then after the 1693 Sicily earthquake it was rebuilt in grand Baroque style.

In the apse, behind the altar, there was a large painting of the "Burial of Saint Lucy" by Caravaggio which was returned to Chiesa di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro.

It's a pond with a fresh water source surrounded by papyrus reeds, which inspired many poets and writers. The legend says that Alpheus, son of Oceanus, fell madly in love with a nymph named Aretusa. The nymph didn't share his feelings. To save her, Artemis turned her into a water source. Zeus also turned Alpheus into a river, allowing him to meet up with Aretusa, but these watery legends are sending a stern strategic message. Ortigia has its own fresh water supply, drawn from the limestone aquifers, so its enemies should think twice about trying to besiege it.

In the middle ages Syracuse was fortified as a bulwark against Ottoman expansion. The island of Ortigia was guarded by fortresses at each end: the northern Marchetti fortress has long gone. The smaller, later Maniace fortress remains at the southern tip, with Vauban-style bastions and a dry moat cut between fort and city. There are small exhibitions on the history of the fortress, and of Norman ceramics discovered at the site.

East side of Via Cavallari are the ticket offices, a large parking lot for buses, toilets & fast food, and a vast display of tourist tat. Buy tickets there or across the road at the complex of ruins and sights on the west side. The order of listings below follows the recommended itinerary, though you're not tied to it, so if one area is congested by tour groups, it's easy to skip and come back to it later.

From the entrance, follow the driveway to descend into a great bosky hollow. These are the ancient stone quarries, worked on from the sixth century BC. Two grottos or galleries burrow into the rockface. Largest is Orecchio di Dionisio or "Ear of Dionysius". Some grotto! - its dimensions are worthy of the gothic nave of a city cathedral. The name arises from its acoustics: the legend says that the tyrant Dionysios could stand outside and listen to whispered conversations of those imprisoned therein. Difficult to believe this, once you've savoured the distorted echoing babble of tourists.
The second and smaller is Grotto dei Cordari ie the cave of cordwainers or ropemakers. Dark, not particularly straight, far from dry, so it's not obvious why they would work here.
At the very north end of the quarries are Necropoli Grotticelle - which supposedly contains Archimedes' tomb, but the site of this is unknown. It's probably easier to view from the street after leaving the park.

Built circa 470 BC but with reconstruction in the 3rd century BC and Roman period. Further work continues today, so you can look down on it but can't enter: they're rebuilding the stage, and a tier of wooden bleachers. Greek drama is performed here May - July, typically at sunset. These performances are in Italian, without amplification as the natural acoustics are so good. It is the largest remaining Greek theatre on Sicily, but there isn't much left other than the seats.