//
Esquilino and San Giovanni are adjacent neighborhoods in Rome.
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
Built in the 9th century, this ancient basilica crowns the top of the Esquiline Hill. Tons of gold decorate the interior together with impressive mosaics (particularly when the floodlights are turned on), and there is a museum on the premises. If you are in Rome on Corpus Christi (Corpus Domini), which is the Thursday after the 8th Sunday after Easter, an early-evening service is held in San Giovanni by the Pope followed by a procession along Via Merulana to Santa Maria. Good opportunity for a close up view of the Pope.
This is a very large church with lots to see, as for example, the main part of the church has two layers of mosaics and paintings high on the walls, the altar and apse are spectacular, and then there are several more or less large chapels you won't want to miss, including the one with the amazing golden baptismal font. Allow at least an hour if not an hour and a half or more to visit the interior, even if you do not take any special tours, and also allow time to view the exterior from all sides. Overall, at least 2 hours would not be too much time to allot.
This is the cathedral church of Rome and first of the major basilicas. It's also the Pope's (as Bishop of Rome) Church. As such it ranks above all other churches in the Roman Catholic Church, even above St. Peter's. Be sure to check out the 4th-century baptistery (still in use - in Piazza di San Giovanni, slightly apart from the main basilica) and the medieval cloister (brilliant Cosmati columns)
The Scala Sancta (Holy Stairs) is, according to Roman Catholic tradition, the staircase used by Jesus Christ to approach Pontius Pilate to be sentenced to death. Attracts numerous pilgrims who climb the stairs on their knees.
It was constructed to hold relics of the Passion of Jesus. They include two thorns of his crown, part of a nail and three small wooden pieces of the Cross. The authenticity of these relics is much disputed, however.
Museo Nazionale degli Strumenti Musicali
Next door to Santa Croce. A collection of around 3000 pieces, although only a third of these are displayed.
This small museum records the liberation of Rome from German occupation during the Second World War. During the occupation the building was used as a prison. Stair lifts and chair lifts available for wheelchair users (call ahead).
Impressive gate built by Claudius in AD 52 and formed by the arches of two aqueducts. It was subsequently incorporated into the Aurelian walls. Nearby is the "Baker's tomb", erected for himself and his wife by a freed slave who became a rich baker. Note the friezes round the top representing the stages of breadmaking.
Gelateria Fassi
Ice cream: not as marvellous as Giolitti or San Crispino but still worth trying. Prices are reasonable, quality good. Old ice cream making equipment on display.
Good value Sardinian fish restaurant. Seafood antipasto, three pasta dishes, grilled fish and dessert for around €40. Don't try to order, just let them bring it to your table. Excellent Sardinian wines extra.
Very upmarket (with matching prices) baker. Great window displays but you may find the taste doesn't match the appearance.
A street side restaurant with excellent food, attentive service and warm atmosphere. Eat outside or inside, depending on the weather. Try the fish fillet baked in potato which should please anyone who likes fish - it is excellent. Their marketing says they are a pub, perhaps to pull in tourists hankering after home but this is an Italian restaurant. The waiters hustle passers by into becoming satisfied diners. The white table cloths, linen and cutlery are presentable. The menu is varied and does not stress pizza, though they do have it. There are a variety of meat and fish dishes and pasta. The house wine is modest but good value. There seems to be no wine list.
Seven-room guesthouse in a 19th-century building, with a two-room annex around the corner on Via Conte Verde. All rooms have a private bathroom, air conditioning and Wi-Fi; shared kitchen, washing machine, lift and roof terrace. The host meets guests on arrival; self check-in after 22:00. Guests must be 10 or older, unless the whole annex is booked.
Bathroom ensuite, free Wi-Fi, air conditioning.
Large two-star hotel of with 51 bedrooms divided in single, double, twin and triple. All rooms with private bath, flat screen TV and air conditioning.
A dorm-style hostel.
Housed in a modern building in very a central position. Wifi, Pay and sat TV are among each bedroom facilities.
An indoor market of ancient provenance that has moved from its longtime outdoor home all the way round the outside of Piazza Vittorio; it is still only a couple of blocks east of the piazza. The mercato is divided into a food section, with good and cheap produce, meat, and fish, and a clothing section, with clothes of all kinds, shoes, luggage, etc., at low prices and generally not fabulous quality. Get there in the morning for food; it's generally closed by afternoon.
Metro Line A connects Termini station with the basilica of San Giovanni.
Read in the guideChoose an airport to see hotels, stations, taxi ranks and car rental desks around it.
Rome · International · CIA
Loading places around the airport…
Articles and travel topics about Esquilino-San Giovanni and Italy.
Travel tipsUnderstand travel insurance for a Schengen visa in 2026. Learn mandatory €30,000 medical coverage, zero deductible rules, and embassy-approved policies.
7 min read
Travel tipsComplete 2026 guide to global tourist taxes and access fees. Compare entry fees in Venice, Bali, Bhutan, Kyoto, and Edinburgh, and learn how to pay them.
8 min read
Travel tipsFind out how much does a trip to Italy cost in 2026. Compare realistic daily budgets for hotels, food, trains, and museum entry across three travel styles.
8 min read
Travel tipsEstimate your Europe trip cost for 2 weeks in 2026. Compare realistic budgets for lodging, Eurail trains, dining, and sightseeing across three styles.
8 min read
Every section of the guide. Open one to read it in full.