
City in Isfahan province, Iran
Photo: Mohammadjavad Ebrahimi, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Varzaneh is an ancient Central Iranian desert town in Isfahan province still showing evidence of its 5,000-year-old civilization.
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Built in 1100 CE. Three centuries later, in the Timurid era, it was extensively renovated. Its splendid Mihrab and all the tile designs at entrance of mosque and around the Mihrab makes the mosque a very special one in this region. You do not have to pay to visit this 600-year-old mosque. Local people say prayer here three times a day. If you do not wish to say prayer with them, wait for some minutes until people leave the mosque before you visit. The door is open from very early morning, until 1 hour after sunset. Though, if there is an occasion, including celebrations, memorial of a recently passed away local person, then mosque might be a bit occupied a couple of hours per day. If there is such an occasion, you would be listening to quite loud voice from the 20-m-high minaret, from almost all of the town. That is actually a function of Jame mosques in Persian post-Islamic age. In particular, on Friday afternoons, you could listen to the speech Imam speaking about religion and recent social, political issues. Like any other religious center around the world, from churches to temples, to enter such mosque wearing modest clothes is necessary. The dome and the minaret of the mosque are clear from almost everywhere in town, therefore it is easy to reach. It is in the centre of town.
The last old bridge over Zayanderud river and has 10 arches; 7 of the arches were built about 9 centuries ago during the Seljuq dynasty. While an extension of the three other arches was done by local people about 140 years ago. You would be able to recognise the extension by a small wall. The bridge is 67 m long and 6.5 m wide. The old bridge connects the old district of town to the new one. Some boat bike and motorboat tours are organized around the bridge for tourists.
A sample of very beautiful Qajar design traditional big house. In Yusefi house, you would find bedrooms, baking room, guestroom, water reservoir, fountain and gardens, wells and windows in traditional kind. The house is a museum as well, having collection of photo tableaux from local region, a sample of all of agriculture and cuisine appliances and gadgets. The house truly introduce you how people in Varzaneh and villages around were living hundreds of years ago. Yusefi house is located in northern part of old district of town, close to an intersection which is so-called between locals as Darvazeh-Abbas دروازه عباس, meaning (King) Abbas gate.
Pigeon houses
In dry regions, like Varzaneh district, the droppings were prized by farmers and collected for fertilizing their arid fields. From Varzaneh to the west, until Ezhieh (a town 25 km west of Varzaneh), and also from south to Hassanabad (a town 25 km south of Varzaneh) there are plenty of dovecotes or pigeon houses. The dovecote are also called Kabootarkhaneh in Persian literature, which means simply house of pigeons.
An old system of grinding wheat, has been revived for using male camels. Historically, the last time Iranian were using this system was a century ago. Mr. Mohammadi, the owner and founder of the camel-mill, is using it mostly for tourist purposes, though he grinds wheat occasionally. He sings, while pulling rope of camel, a very nice folklore song. The building is designed in completely traditional manner, as you can see in the pictures. The camel-mill is located off road of cemetery of town. Mr Mohammadi will offer you tea if you visit camel-mill.
Haj-Ibrahim revived the system from 50 years ago, using a specific race of ox which is so-called between locals as Zaboli race (Zabol is a town in southeast of Iran). In the case of Haj-Ibrahim's ox, it took more than 6 months to prepare the ox, being wild in the beginning. The very astonishing part is that now ox would work only by the song of his owner, in the sense that, the ox would start working and taking water from well, when Haj-Ibrahim starts singing. Plenty of such oxen can be found at southern east of Iran, or in Baluchistan region of Pakistan. The complex is mainly a well, an ox, rope, pulley and bucket. Using this system, water will be pumped to the fields, without making air pollution. For six hour working of an ox per day, the water for 1500 m² wheat field will be supplied, which is very efficient system. The system was broadly used from 600 years ago, till the 21st century when farmers beganto use fuel water-pumping machines. Haj-Ibrahim will offer you tea.
A water reservoir or āb anbār (Persian: ابی انبار) is a traditional reservoir or cistern of drinking water in Persian antiquity. While, a wind-catcher (in Persian, Badgir, بادگیر) is traditional Persian architectural element to create natural ventilation in buildings. In Varzaneh, you can see a water-reservoir employed a windtower to cool down its water. There are seven water reservoirs in Varzaneh in total.
There is a saying that King Abbas I established 999 caravanserai in the Persian empire to facilitate and promote trade and travelling, one of them is in Varzaneh. You can find this caravansary in the eastern exit road of Varzaneh, being about 400 years old.
The sand dunes are from 5-62 m high. The average height of sandy dunes are highest between deserts of Iran. It makes the landscape spectacular. There is no regular transport from Varzaneh to the desert, which is 15 km away. However, taxis would be quite cheap to take you to desert. The sand dunes usually do not move considerably, so you can camp for several nights there, having an easy access to town. However, except for late spring and summer, the temperature often drops below 10°C and to 10° below freezing in January and February), due to the lack of humidity. Thus, you would need sleeping bags if you want to camp there. The desert is about 45 km across.
The magic point of this region is that, close to Varzaneh dry desert, you can find Gavkhooni wetland. Gavkhooni is a preserved ecosystem, which is host of thousands of bird, migrating from north mostly. The number of the birds varies each year, depending on the rainfall of that year. In fact, the majority of wetland is dry each year. Generally, the wetland has a rich wildlife. From gees, storks, flamingos and Iranian zebras and deer to many other reptiles can be found in this area. To reach Gavkhooni, you need to take the Gavkhooni road on the east of Varzaneh for about 25 km. As a sign of your arrival to wetland, you would see a completely black mountain, simply called Black Mountain (Persian Kooh-Siah, کوه سیاه). The stones are very light, having many holes inside. The mountain is indeed the remaining of black magmas.
Another interesting spot is the salt lake, which belongs to Gavkhooni ecosystem, being the southwestern part of the wetlands. It is more than 15 km² in area and the salt plain stretches to the wetlands. There is a part of that which locals are mining salt from. It is glorious to see a blue sky with purely vast white ground. There is a short road to the salt lake from Varzaneh, which is not asphalt. Take the Shiraz road from Varzaneh for about 40 km, reaching to Khara village. Then from Khara, you have about 15 km in a specific road for salt lake. Starting from 8 km in latter road, you will see the signs of a big salty area until 10 km afterwards.
The 1000-year-old citadel located on the bank of the Zayanderud river and has survived natural disasters and many wars for 1000 years. Having very thick walls made of adobe mud brick) made it a protected complex for people living in the region. The thickness of walls varies from 3-4 m and they are about 9 m high. The citadel has an area of 40,000 m². Nowadays, only four families live inside. The citadel is containing four mosques, a pigeon house, a water reservoir, a mill and many houses. It is protected by fourteen round towers and you would enter by two gateways.
A hot spring. The pools are located inside a traditional historical buildings, dating back to Safavid era. Due to the fact that its hot water is rich in many minerals, its medical effects for nervous and joint pains has been verified. The complex is equipped with massage room.
The oldest restaurant in Varzaneh.
A traditional house, with common bathroom and toilet, and Wifi. Reza Khallili the owner is very friendly, speaks English and will drive you to the sand dune for 300,000 rials. Homemade dinner is 150,000 rials. Reservation via e-mail or text message is possible.
Negaar Hostel
Traditional courtyard guest house, all mud-break, with private bathroom and toilet in each room. Reservation via e-mail or text message is possible. You can ask any of the friendly staff, Mohammad who speak English, French and Persian, for home-made food.
A traditional mud-brick courtyard guest house, with private bathrooms, toilets and WiFi. Reservation via e-mail or text is possible. You can ask any of the friendly staff, who speak English and Persian, for home-made food.
Guest house containing 4 private rooms with private bathrooms and 3 dorm rooms with shared bathrooms. The house contains a big yard with gardens and a traditional pool in the middle. There is a kitchen in the house. Rooms can be reserved and the price is €8-13 (including breakfast and Wi-Fi). Tours are offered to the desert and ancient places.
Azar Camping In Desert
Azar is a group of expert local people who arrange camping in the desert. The budget package includes a tent and transfers to the desert €15. The full package includes a tent, transfer with off-road cars to the desert, fire, sandboard, BBQ as dinner in the desert (or vegetarian food in case you are vegetarian) and breakfast €30. Extra charge for discovering the desert with a camel. The tours will start 1 hour before sunset and finish the day next after having breakfast in the desert and heads back to Varzaneh before it gets hot. Moreover, you can join daily tours to salt lake, pigeon tower, Citadel, wetland and also our sports activities such as ATV motorbike in the desert, off-road cars, camel riding, zip line.
From Isfahan, travellers can go to the Jey terminal and take the Varzaneh buses or minibuses, paying 40,000 rials (Dec 2016) You do not need to make a reservation for ticket in advance.
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