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Capital and largest city of South Sumatra, Indonesia
Photo: baka_neko_baka, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Palembang , also called Pelembang by the locals, is Indonesia's provincial capital of South Sumatra. Situated on the lowlands where the Ogan, Komering, and Musi Rivers meet, the Palembang metropolitan area is home to more than two million people. The city serves as the region's central hub and the main gateway for travelers eager to venture deeper into southern Sumatra.
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The first bridge to cross the Musi River in Palembang, and was the longest in Indonesia when it first opened in 1965. Originally a vertical-lift bascule bridge, its central span stopped being lifted only several years after opening. The bridge is the most prominent landmark in Palembang, being located right at its heart, connecting the two sides of Musi River.
Masjid Agung Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin Jayo Wikramo
This grand mosque was first opened in 1748, and has been renovated and significantly expanded a few times. The original praying hall and minaret are located on the western side of the compound (away from the main street), showcasing a mix between Palembang Malay, Chinese, and European architectural styles. The expanded praying hall is built around the original building with pyramidal roofs as well as a taller and slimmer minaret.
Benteng Kuto Besak
A walled compound from the Sultanate era on the northern side of Musi River. Originally completed in 1797, it is now used as the headquarter for the regional command of the Indonesian National Forces. The compound is closed to public due to its military use, though an enormous open plaza right in front of it functions as the city's main square. On the plaza there lies the Belido Fish Monument, dedicated towards a protected endemic species that used to be the main ingredient in local delicacies.
Kantor Ledeng
Built in the early 20th century, this building was influenced by the contemporary De stijl architecture, and was the tallest building in Palembang when it was first inaugurated. Originally served a dual function as a water tower and city hall, it now hosts the city's mayoral office.
A riverine island which has seen various uses throughout history, from hosting an outpost of the Sultanate and a detention camp for political prisoners, to being a destination for cultural and religious tourism. The island hosts a Buddhist compound consisting of Hok Tjing Bio Temple and the 9-story Kemaro Island Pagoda. The city's annual Lantern Festival (Cap Go Meh) celebration is centered around the compound, during which the northern side of the island will temporarily be connected with a pontoon bridge to the mainland.
Bukit Siguntang is a low hill in Palembang, widely regarded as one of the most important sacred sites associated with the ancient Srivijaya Empire. Archaeological finds and local tradition suggest the area was a spiritual centre, and it is believed to have been occupied as early as the 7th century. Today, the hill is a landscaped park containing a number of revered tombs linked to legendary Malay figures, making it both a historical and cultural pilgrimage site. Visitors can climb a series of steps to the summit, where statues and viewpoints offer a sense of the area’s significance. While little monumental architecture remains,
Monpera
Located opposite the Grand Mosque, it was inaugurated in 1988 to commemorate the struggle for Indonesia's independence in Palembang. Inside this brutalist-style building, there is a museum displaying various artifacts and historical photos related to the Five-Day and Five-Night Battle in Palembang (1947). There is also a dancing fountain in the monument's courtyard.
This municipal museum sits atop the remnants of Kuto Lamo, which used to be the royal court of the Sultanate before it was moved to Kuto Besak. Its current building, adopting traditional Palembang limasan architecture, was used as an office for the Dutch colonial resident. The museum showcases the history of the city, from the era of Srivijaya to the colonial period.
Museum Negeri Sumatera Selatan
This state museum showcases the history of South Sumatra province, with displays ranging from pre-historic megaliths to Srivijayan era statues and inscriptions. The museum complex also hosts an iconic Palembang limasan house that was featured on the pre-2016 Rp10,000 banknote—they may also lend you a copy of this old banknote if you want to take photos comparing its illustration with the real-life house.
Kompleks Makam Ki Gede ing Suro
A temple-like complex consisting of 7 structures made of brick and white stone, with an artistic style reflecting the influence of Majapahit from the 15th to 16th centuries AD. Gilded bronze statues from the Srivijayan era were also discovered at this site. It was used as an Islamic burial ground around the 16th century by the noble family of Ki Gede ing Suro, the progenitor of Palembang sultans.
Taman Purbakala Kerajaan Sriwijaya
An archaeological site hosting remnants of an ancient settlement (probably from Srivijayan era) with networks of artificial canals. The park displays many artefacts such as Buddhist statues, potteries and ceramics, but no major historic structures, as the buildings there were most likely built from perishable materials like wood instead of bricks or stones.
Rumah Saudagar Ong Boen Tjiet
Former residence of Ong Boen Tjiet, a famous 20th-century Palembang merchant of Chinese-Indonesian background. Facing Musi on its southern bank, it features a mix between Palembang Malay and Chinese architectural elements, and hosts collections owned and maintaned privately by Ong Boen Tjiet's family. Can be also be reached through land route, though the alleyways to the house fit motorcycle only.
Claimed to house the largest wood-carved copy of the Quran in the world, displayed page by page on the 15-metre high galleries. Reviews are mixed, with many travellers saying it is a must visit on a trip to Palembang and others complaining about a long drive on bad roads to a rural area and poor access for disabled people.
On the northern bank, the riverfront Kuto Besak and 16 Ilir plazas overlooking the Musi River and Ampera Bridge are popular spots for local families, youngsters and visitors to hang around and enjoy late afternoon breeze. There are also a row of warung terapung (floating eateries) boats on the east side of the bridge which offer various local delicacies. From the piers of Kuto Besak, one can also take motorboat trips to various destinations along the river (the price wildly varies depending on the length of the trip and the number of passengers). A trip just across the river or so (less than 2 km) usually costs Rp5,000 per person.
The sports complex with its grand Gelora Sriwijaya Stadium hosted parts of the 2011 Southeast Asian Games and the 2018 Asian Games. On Sunday morning it is a popular spot for locals to converge, do jogging or exercise.
A major urban park consisting of a large pond surrounded by vegetations and a nearby smaller pond. Every Sunday morning the streets around the park are closed to traffic, giving space for pedestrians to stroll around and street vendors to sell local specialties and delicacies.
The most famous mie celor restaurant in Palembang, situated at a market. The Mie Celor is similar to laksa, but less spicy and more condensed broth, with scents of prawn and coconut milk.
A constant flow of customers are craving for pempek at this tenant across the Palembang Indah Mall. Its Es Kacang Merah (red bean ice) can neutralise the spiciness of the broth or to be enjoyed on its own on a hot day. A popular gift idea from Palembang, they do delivery across the country even by air cargo!
While most of the pempek you see are typically either fried or steamed, this establishment has it baked or grilled, making the texture crispy outside and soft inside, without the guilt of too much oil. Recommended for its pempek lenggang (pempek filled with duck egg, grilled while wrapped in banana leaves).
The HAR stands for its founder, an Indian immigrant named Haji Abdul Razak who opened the murtabak restaurant which still stands 70 years later in the same spot! One of the most famous restaurants in town, their specialty is the Murtabak filled with minced meat and duck egg, eaten with curry. You can also order a plain murtabak or prata, or other Indonesian delights.
Most major cities in Indonesia have at least one prominent Padang restaurant, and this is the one that Palembang has. Famous for all-rounders of the spicy Padang food.
The restaurant, which is next to the governor's office, offers pindang - a smoked or steamed fish in a sweet, sour, and spicy soup - as its specialty. While Palembang primarily uses Pangasius (ikan patin) fish as its ingredient, the restaurant has other varieties such as fish head, shrimp, or other fishes, such as the second most favourite, ikan baung. Top it off with the sweet srikaya pudding or coconut water.
A Western restaurant with an open kitchen concept. Chic and quaint British style exterior and so is the food, from steaks to pizzas, for a generally lower price than hotels.
A dining experience by the bank of the Musi River with a fantastic view of the iconic Ampera bridge. Primary offerings include the Palembang's local delicacy, especially its pindang, seafood, and a few Chinese dishes.
Tune Hotel Palembang
The no-frills hotel brand that lets you pay only for what you need, but has complete facilities such as breakfast, Wi-Fi, air conditioning and TV.
Budget hotel with noticeably modest but clean rooms and minimum design. Restaurant is in a separate building downstairs but don't expect a wide variety of menus.
This Aston hotel is more modest than its bigger city counterparts. Provides large deluxe rooms, suites, and an option that includes Palembang cuisine for breakfast.
One of the best hotels in the city. Typical Accor style hospitality with spacious rooms, generous breakfast, a wide swimming pool and jogging area. Generally suitable for business travelers and families.
An 18-storey atrium hotel offering 174 rooms. One of the facilities they offer to guests is their the largest banquet and meeting space in South Sumatra, accommodating up to 2,500 guests reception-style. Guests could also enjoy their experience in their Pool Café that offers healthy food, snacks, and light refreshments.
PS
A quaint yet crowded mall at the heart of the city, attached to the Aryaduta Hotel and Siloam Hospital. While the original mall looks old, its new underground extension is more spiffy and has better restaurants.
To the right of the Ampera bridge is one of the most crowded places in Palembang. Some people refer to this bazaar as the Tanah Abang of Palembang. Women's clothing is widely sold. A lot of clothing sold here are in beautiful colours and embroidery with Indian/Pakistani styles. Bargaining here is a must. Pasar 16 is also good to buy traditional palembang textile called Songket. A must-buy in Palembang, you can get songket as a textile to make clothes, songket shoes, purses, cushion covers, calligraphy, art, hand fans, etc.
PIM
The classiest mall in Palembang. The most quantity of branded fashion, anchor stores, and food tenants in one building. It also hosts a lavish cinema.
By train
Palembang's rail network is serviced from Kertapati Station, 2 km south of the city centre along Jl. Kemang Kertapati road.
By bus
Palembang is connected by bus from other cities in Sumatra (Jambi, Padang, Pekanbaru, Medan and Lampung) as well to Jakarta in Java.
By light rail
To support the 2018 Asian Games, a light rail system was built. The single line has 13 stations connecting the airport, the city centre, and the Jakabaring stadium complex from north to south.
By bus
TransMusi is the best public transportation so far. For a flat rate of Rp5,500 (April 2016) you can hop on along its 11 lines in operation:
Choose an airport to see hotels, stations, taxi ranks and car rental desks around it.
Palembang · Regional · PLM
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