Coastal town in Mayiladuthurai district, Tamil Nadu, India
Photo: Rangan Datta Wiki, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Tranquebar or Tharangambadi is a small coastal town in Tamil Nadu 120 km south of the former French colony Pondicherry (Puducherry). Tharangambadi literally means the land of the singing waves. From 1620 to 1845 it served as a Danish trading post in India and came to be known as Tranquebar. Tranquebar is also known for its ozone-rich beaches.
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A Danish 17th-century fort facing the coast. The construction of the fort began immediately after the arrival of the first Danish trading expedition and the establishment of a treaty regulating trading rights between the Nayak Raghunatha in Thanjavur and the Danish East India Company in 1620. Until the end of the 17th century the fort was used for residential and storage purposes; subsequent increase in population forced the Danes to move out and occupy surrounding areas as well. While it used to be crumbling away, the Fort has been renovated by Indian volunteers and Danish non-profit organisations. It houses a small museum inside that has some artifacts and a history of the Danish Settlement.
The New Jerusalem Church was built in 1718 by the German missionary Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg. It replaced the old Jerusalem Church which proved too small for the growing local Christian population. The church has a cross-like floor plan. The Danish coat of arms is inscribed on the top of the gateway leading to the interiors of the church. The interior contains several memorial plaques and even a few graves including that of Ziegenbalg. The church is housed in a large compound which also has several graves.
Small cemetery that holds the whitewashed graves of several Danish colonial officials and tradesmen. Don't expect a Danish style cemetery as found in Copenhagen. It is a small compound with a locked gate and several headstones standing forlornly in a barren patch of land.
'Landporten' as the Town Gate is called in Danish forms part of the fortifications that were built around Tranquebar in the 1660s. In 1791 the original gate was destroyed and the existing one constructed in its place.
Ziegenbalg Press
The press where Ziegenbalg printed his first Tamil Bible still stands and is located inside a local school. The printing press is displayed along with the printed copy of the first Tamil Bible. The handwritten Tamil Bible by Ziegenbalg is also on display. The press is still functional and one can gets his name printed in Tamil by using the blocks made by Ziegenbalg.
Consecrated in 1701, it is the oldest Protestant Church in India. Prominent with its combination of colonial and Indian architectural features, its construction together with the fortification of the town marked the moving out and spreading of the Danish population into the surrounding settlement. The structure went through many reconstructions before it reached its present form.
The plaque commemorates the landing of the first Ev Lutheran missionaries to India. The plaque stands at the very spot where Bartholomaus Ziegenbalg and Heinrich Plutschau landed on 9 July 1706. It was erected in 1906 by the Leipzig Ev Luth Mission to celebrate the 200 years of landing. The plaque is mounted on an irregular mountain-like memorial topped with a cross. The plaque was severely damaged during the tsunami of 2004. In 2012 the monument was upgraded, with a stone-tiled floor and low octagonal boundary wall.
Tharangambadi Maritime Museum is housed in the former residence of the Danish Commander. The 18th-century bungalow. It was restored by the Danish Tranquebar Association. It now houses the Tranquebar Maritime Museum. The museum contains a remains of an old ship along with boats and other maritime artifacts. Also, there is a section dedicated to marine creatures. A golden statue of Ziegenbalg stands at the entrance of the museum. The statue was put up in 2006 to commemorate the tercentenary of his landing. Plaques both in English and Tamil mention the achievements of Ziegenbalg.
The colonial bungalow once served as the residence of the Governor of Tranquebar. It overlooks the sprawling open space known as the parade ground. The Bungalow has been restored and there are plans to put it into some adoptive reuse.
One of the most stately buildings of colonial Tranquebar it once served as the residence of the Danish Governor. It is named after Johannes Rehling and dates back to the first half of the 18th century. The building has an elegantly decorated white colonnaded facade giving it an elegant look.
The coastal town has its share of beautiful beaches. The beaches are rich in ozone and a 1960 Danish research puts Tranquebar as one the top ozone-rich beaches in the world. The beach has rocky outcrops and is unsuitable for bathing and swimming. The Dansborg fort towers above the beaches of Tranquebar.
Masilamani Nathar Temple
Dating back to the Pandian era, this temple was erected in 1306. An inscription to this effect is exhibited in the Dansborg Museum. The temple was dilapidated and heavily eroded by the sea but thanks to restoration undertaken by INTACH, the temple is now as good as new and is worth a visit.
This centre is being developed for presenting the traditional arts and crafts of this region. The centre is located in a set of restored Tamil houses that were taken up by some NGOs after the tsunami.
A good place to start is the Bungalow on the Beach on King's Street. Ask for a map there and set out to see the sights. At a comfortable pace the tour should not take more than a couple of hours. You can end the tour with a beer at the Bungalow!
The only dining option in Tranquebar. They serve a fairly decent continental fare with main course at the range of ₹200.
You can order a beer here, just that it comes marked as fruit juice in your bill. ₹150 for a bottle of Kingfisher.
The most upmarket place here, it is housed in the renovated British Collector's house. Run by the Neemrana group it has about eight rooms ranging from ₹500 to ₹5000 per night (Oct 2009). No internet.
The annex of The Bungalow, it is next to the Town Gate and has six rooms ranging from ₹000 to ₹3500 per night (Oct 2009). No internet. No restaurant: you must walk 5 minutes to the Bungalow for meals.
Another place run by Neemrana with three rooms ranging from ₹1000 to ₹2000 per night (Oct 2009). No internet.
The budget accommodation option also run by the Neemrana people has non air conditioned rooms available from ₹600. They serve breakfast and lunch but for dinner one has to go to the Bungalow.
By bus
The best way of getting to Tranquebar is by bus. Bus route 324 runs all the way from CMBT (Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminal) in Madras along the coast to Nagapattinam south of Tranquebar.
By train
Mayiladuthurai is the nearest railhead and is located 31 km from Tranquebar. Mayiladuthurai is well connected with Chennai and Rameshwaram.
Tranquebar is small enough for you to easily be able to walk around and the entire area can be covered in 3-4 hours.
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