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Prefecture and commune in France
Photo: Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Toulouse is the chief city of Haute-Garonne in the Occitanie region of France. It stands north of the Pyrenees on the River Garonne, halfway between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France (after Paris, Marseille and Lyon), with a metropolitan population of almost 1½ million in 2020. It's known for its rugby, its aerospace industry and for violets, which are used to make bonbons and liqueurs.
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A red-brick church from the 11–12th century, it may well be the largest Romanesque construction in the world, partly because it was an important stopover on the pilgrimage to Santiago. Huge as it is, it's the only remnant of the former Abbey of Saint-Sernin. Notable features are the great bell-tower, the gates, the "ambulatory" passage, and the thunderous organ. In the 19th century the church was "restored" by the famous French architect Viollet-le-Duc: some of his re-imaginings of the Middle Ages are now being undone. Saint Sernin or Saturnin (d 257) was one of a group sent from Rome to Christianise 3rd century Gaul; he was martyred by being dragged to death by a bull.
Musée Saint-Raymond
An archaeological museum with Roman artefacts from around Toulouse as well as the largest collection of Roman busts found in France. The site in ancient times was a necropolis then a hospital for pilgrims on the road to Santiago. The present building is from 1523 and became a museum in 1892.
This church was founded in 410 AD as a pagan temple to Apollo but demolished in 1761. The present neoclassical building was completed in 1883 and restored in 2017–19.
This great ramshackle edifice is partly Gothic but mostly Dog's Breakfast – the medieval builders made a hash of things on a sublime scale. They half-built one church, abandoned it, started building another, abandoned that, while other sections were added and added instead of starting over with a clear site. The Archbishop of Toulouse has to come to work in this Frankencathedral.
Great mansion house built in the 16th century in Renaissance style for a rich merchant. It now houses the personal art collection of Georges Bemberg (1915–2011).
Magnificent red-brick building in Neoclassical style, lording it over the pedestrianised main plaza. It houses City Hall (with a grandiose "Salle des Illustres") and the city's main theatre. They no longer do guided tours but you can see much of it free.
Museum of the history of the city.
Deconsecrated mother-church of the Dominicans (called Jacobins in France because their first convent was in Rue St-Jacques in Paris). Built in Gothic red brick, it contains St Thomas Aquinas' relics. It's now a museum, enclosing the convent, refectory, chapel of St Antonin and Salle Capitulaire.
Fine arts museum set in a former Augustinian monastery surrounding two delightful cloisters.
Incorporates the typical features of a Japanese garden, including a lake, a tea pavilion and a planted garden consisting of a dry waterfall, as well as the obligatory lanterns and red bridge.
Vast former abattoir now housing a contemporary arts museum, and there is also a nice garden overlooking the Garonne.
Museum of fine and decorative arts from the Middle Ages to 1939. Dupuy (1867–1944) was an art collector whose wealth came from pickled gherkins.
You'll think you're walking into a monastery: the gardens were part of an old Carmelite friary before expanding south.
Stark depictions of wartime events.
Asian arts and Egyptian antiquities museum in an exotic garden built in 1893. It remains closed.
Advance online booking is essential, via Manatours at least 2 days in advance. There's a 90 min guided tour of the Airbus A350 production line in the JJ Lagardere factory (possibly the biggest building in the world) then a visit to the Aeroscopia Museum. Tours nowadays don't take in the older factory in the Clement Ader building.
Space City
Scientific theme park with interactive exhibits on space travel and replica spacecraft. Most suited to 5–14 year olds.
See demonstrations of crazy custom contraptions, plus the chance to ride on a huge animatronic Minotaur, which costs the same again.
An aircraft museum where one can see more than 20 aircraft, notably Airbus ones like Concorde, A320, A340, A380, A400, but also various fighter jets.
Performing arts theatre with a special interest in circus.
Theatre and artists collective.
This Turkish place is quite popular with students, and it's not hard to see why when they serve a generous portion of good food at low prices.
The ground floor is a big food market. Upstairs are five little restaurants open until 15:00, with a string more on the street east.
The best of the cluster around the market, with home-style cuisine.
Good value home-style cuisine at this cosy brick-lined bistro. French cuisine.
Simple authentic vegetarian Moroccan dishes, charming boss.
Cuisine of Gascony, the southwest corner of France. Great value for the quality.
Authentic Argentinian cuisine such as empanadas in a friendly atmosphere.
East Med staples such as falafel, kebabs and shwarma, in an authentically chaotic ambiance. Cash only.
Vegetarian / vegan restaurant with a wide menu or choice from the buffet.
Regional fare in a friendly atmosphere.
You're paying for the sumptuous interior, but this is high-end cuisine, and the fixed-price menu is good value.
Busy tapas bar with friendly atmosphere that offers meals, beers on tap and a real happy hour. Tapas here are tasty and generous. It's a popular place so it's better to get there a little earlier in the evening.
High standards for a small menu of classic French cuisine, but not much for vegetarians.
A team and a welcome at the top. Local products cooked with passion. The service is very warm and attentive. More than reasonable in view of the quality of the products. Original dishes, elaborate, homemade, a lot of work behind. Very welcoming staff and a beautiful ambiance.
Charming bistro with regional cuisine.
Friendly place, friendly team. Always a pleasure to come and eat in this warm little place, the meal is always delicious, exceptional prawn risotto. For lovers of duck breast it is tasty and melts in the mouth. Large terrace.
Simple authentic cuisine superbly done. The set menu is great value.
Scots-themed pub with food, micro-brewery and huge selection of whisky.
Brewery organising classes where you brew your own.
Just what you need to enjoy the local ambiance, a trad Bavarian beer garden.
Clean friendly hostel less than 1 km from centre. Not much of a common area, but each room has an open kitchen and lounge area.
These are serviced self-catering apartments, ranging from studios to one-bedroom layouts. They're mostly for extended stays but often have short-term availability. Some are suitable for people with reduced mobility.
Built in the 19th century, given a 1930s make-over commemorating aviation in the city: St-Exupery was one famous guest. Mostly clean and efficient.
Convenient hotel, usually smart and clean.
The hotel is an 18th-century building and feels its age, with mixed reviews for comfort and cleanliness.
formerly Hotel Athénée
Standard reliable Best Western chain hotel.
Small and stylish hotel, centrally located, with a blend of modern and classic design.
Clean, efficient friendly place 3 km from airport, with shuttle bus.
By train
By road
From Paris the quickest is usually straight south on A10, A71 and A20. You can also stay on A10 to Bordeaux then turn inland on A62.
By bus
FlixBus runs twice a day from Paris Bercy Seine (10 hr non-stop) and once from Marseille (6 hr via Nîmes and Montpellier).
By boat
Toulouse is the mid-point of the "Canal des Deux Mers" linking the Atlantic with the Mediterranean.
Toulouse is a big city, but the historical centre is compact, between the Garonne River and Metro B Line. You can walk to most attractions.
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Toulouse/Blagnac · International · TLS
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