Subprefecture and commune in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
Photo: Myrabella, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Saintes is a city on the Charente river in Charente-Maritime, in southwestern France. It was the capital of the historical Saintogne County, many landmarks from its glorious past have been preserved, and as such it has been classified as a Ville d'art et d'histoire ("City of art and history").
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The large cathedral that's the namesake of the district dominates the old town. There has been at least two cathedrals here earlier, a Merovingian cathedral founded by St Pallais, and a Romanesque cathedral of which the southern cross and a dome have been incorporated in the current building. The Gothic cathedral was once much higher, up to three times higher than its current version. Traces of the ridge raising up to 39 m are still visible on the bell tower, and arcs on the outside raise up above the roof. During the 15th and 16th centuries it was built to those grand proportions, and the cathedral was almost finished when it was largely destroyed by Protestant troops in 1568 during the French Wars of Religion. There weren't funds to rebuild it as large as it had been, and the current height is about a third of what it once was. Surrounding buildings related to the cathedral like the bishops' residence were also not rebuilt.
An important pedestrian and shopping street, with more than half of the old town's shops. As such it's a great place to just walk around and do window shopping; or to make some side trips along the alleys. Most façades date from the 17th and 18th centuries though there are still some medieval houses left.
Another major shopping street in the old town, also known as the Grand’Rue (big street). It follows the routing of an old Roman street. It's pedestrianized and lined with palms and flowers. Looking towards the Charente river along the street, you can see the Germanicus arc. There's a great variety of businesses on this street from perfume shops and hotels to crêperies and art galleries.
The most "medieval" street of the old town, at least when it comes to the houses lining it which were untouched by the 17th century building project. As there are relatively few businesses, it's much less busy than the shopping streets and even overlooked by visitors spending a short time in the city.
In the heart of the Quartier Saint-Pierre, and first mentioned in a charter from 1340, it was one of the main churches within the city walls in the Middle Ages. The present church was built in "flamboyant Gothic" style, destroyed during the Wars of Religion and rebuilt as a smaller version in 1638. After the revolution it became disused for more than half a century until 1849, then functioning as a Carmelite convent until 1922 when it first became a grocery store and then a warehouse. In 2000 it was acquired by the Fraternity of St. Pius X, renovated, and is once again a religious building.
A Dominican monastery established in 1292, it was rebuilt in the 15th century. After the revolution it became a dwelling house. In the 19th century a certain Maurice Martineau with a large collection of books lived there and as he passed away in 1928, the house and the books became the property of the city. Therethrough the municipal library came into being, and which it has been ever since. Only the Gothic choir with its grand bay and inscriptions reveal that this was once a house of worship.
An art museum in a former échevinage (a seat of municipal institutions under the Ancien Régime), classed as a historical monument. The artworks on display are mostly from the 19th century by French painters.
Ethnographic museum in a building constructed for Marquis Monconseil in the 18th century. There are many different kinds of historical objects on display; clothing (an extensive collection of headgear), objects of daily life from jewellery to earthenware, replicas of habitations and boats
A square built in 1843 and named after 17th century bishop Louis de Bassompierre. It's a kind of an esplanade in front of the Fernand-Chapsal gardens where the Germanicus arc was reassembled in 1851. On the square there's a statue of 16th century potter Bernard Palissy who pioneered the Palissy ware ceramics style. The square is a venue for different events and a departure place for river tour boats.
A triumphal arch built in 18 or 19 AD by Caius Julius Rufus, to celebrate emperor Tiberius, his son Drusus, and his nephew and adoptive son Germanicus. In Roman times it marked the eastern entrance to the city and was placed in the front of the bridge across Charente. When the quai was modernized in 1843-51, the arch was disassembled and rebuilt 15 m away at its current place. Some Roman inscriptions are still visible on the arch.
Housed in 19th century slaughterhouse, this museum displays items from life during the Roman times. In particular, there's a great collection of gemstones excavated when ramparts were reconstructed in the late 19th century.
Right next to the Abbaye aux Dames, of which it is an outbuilding, and for a long time the only parish church on the right bank. It was first built in the 12th century to replace Bishop Palladius' funeral basilica, and later modified into Gothic style. This led to some interesting details; columns becoming unused, the Romanesque apse being replaced by a flat bay in "flamboyant" Gothic style, and the bell tower being shortened and covered by an atypical slate roof. There used to be a small cemetery below what's now a public square next to the church.
Founded by Count of Anjou Geoffroy Martel and his wife Agnes of Burgundy in 1047, it was once one of the most important female monasteries in southwestern France. It was richly endowed by the Dukes of Aquitaine and at its peak home to up to a hundred nuns from French nobility. Madame de Saintes, the abbess of this monastery, had a very powerful position. She carried a bishop's staff, for female religious leaders an almost unheard of privilege at the time, and also had the right to mint money and act as a judge. In 1320 it was placed under the protection of the French king, as the right bank became French territory, which greatly angered the Duke of Aquitaine (the English king). After the revolution, indeed already somewhat before, the monastery declined, and was converted into a jail and later a barracks. In the mid 20th century it became a religious building again, and is now also a cultural institution. The abbey also has a separate church, the Église Saint-Marie, which has an interesting bell tower which is said to look like a pine cone and a decorated portal, plus some additional buildings related to the abbey.
Haras National de Saintes
In a forested park of 9 hectares in size, until 2019 you could experience living 19th century heritage in the form of horse breeding. In 2019 the place was sold to an advertising entrepreneur who plans to convert the buildings into a headquarters for southwestern France, but they'll also house a restaurant, rentable space for startup businesses and apartments. As such you can just admire the buildings from a distance.
Sitting in a green valley, the Roman amphitheater was built almost 2000 years ago under the rule of Tiberius and Claudius. It could seat 15000 spectators (undoubtedly much of the city's inhabitants) and was one of the most important in Gaul. It's built to an elliptical structure and has a size of 126 x 102 m, and fits neatly into the valley. The amphitheater was used as a stone quarry during the Middle Ages, so it's by no means intact. Little remains of the cavea (seating area), the gates are somewhat better preserved. Still it's an important historical monument from the time when the city was named Mediolanum Santonum.
Founded in 1081 by Guillaume VIII, Duke of Aquitaine, it's actually two churches superimposed on each other with stairs in the nave connecting them. The basilica was built to house the relics of martyred Saint Eutrope with his sarcophagus in the upper church and his skull in the lower church. It has been an important stop on the Way of St. James route to Santiago de Compostela ever since. In 1096, not long after it was finished, pope Urban II visited to preach the First Crusade. In 1886, pope Leon XIII promoted the status of the church to basilica. Basilique Saint-Eutrope is considered an architectonical masterpiece with its Romanesque walls, Gothic choir, 11th century baptismal fonts, paintings and stained windows and one of the largest Romanesque crypts in Europe in the lower church surrounding the sarcophagus of the saint.
Temple protestant
The main place of worship of the Reformed church in the city. The church, finished in 1906, was built in many different styles - Neo-Romanesque, Neo-Byzantine and Art Nouveau and listed as a historical monument in 1998.
Logis du Gouverneur
One of the last parts of a 17th-century citadel. A few decades after its completion, the region of Saintogne revolted against the king, the rebellion was struck down, and Cardinal Richelieu ordered the citadel to be torn down. In addition to the governors house, there's little left of the fortifications. Later a Carmelite convent, a hospital (later wrecked) and a chapel was built on the grounds. The older buildings have been incorporated in the new Saint-Louis residential district.
Thermes de Saint-Saloine
Reduced to ruins today, the Saint-Saloine thermal baths were the most important ones in the Roman city. They were built towards the end of the 1st century and modeled on similar baths in Rome. Over the centuries, the baths were first converted into a church, then abandoned in the 16th or 17th century. From the nearby terrace there are nice views of the surroundings.
Built between 1840 and 1845 by the architect Brossard, this neoclassical church is the fifth church on the place; the first was built in the 5th century. The interior is covered in frescoes, paper decorations, stained glass windows. The façade is rather monumental with its pilasters, pediments and Italian-style belltower.
Jardin public Fernand-Chapsal
Formerly known as Parc Bassompierre, the garden on the Charente river offers great views to the old town and the cathedral. It's divided into a French and an English garden, and has a music kiosk and a playground for children.
A green walk next to the amphitheater, connected to the rest of Saint-Eutrope by a pastoral path named Vallon des Arènes.
The region is famous for its meadows and here they reach into the city. A true conservatory for plants and birdlife, this area of 120 hectares has been listed as a protected European Natura 2000 area. It's also welcoming to visitors and has walking trails and signs presenting the ecosystems to visitors.
Canoes can be rented for half a day to take a relaxed trip on the Charente and admire the city and its surroundings from the river. It's very pleasant when the weather is good. A journey of 20 km will take about 7-8 hours, a journey of 12 km about 4 hours.
Wooden ferry taking passengers on 1.5 hour-long river cruises where you can enjoy the landscapes and the city views in a relaxed way.
Small electric boats carrying five persons which can be rented without prior reservation and without a skipper's license required. Departing from Place Bassompierre.
A beautiful and comfortable cruise ship with 200 places. From the sun deck there are great views of the surroundings, and the sun deck has a bar and a covered lounge. There are morning, mid-day and afternoon cruises and the whole ship can also be rented for events like meetings or weddings.
Shooting with laser guns in dark labyrinths. For teams of at least 6 people, and players need to be at least 7 years old. A game normally lasts 20 minutes. It's a good idea to dress in black and don't forget your water bottle!
Twelve bowling tracks, rental of bowling shoes. There are also several billiard tables and a bar.
Karting track with a length of 700 m and karting cars for rent. For adults and children aged 8 and over (length requirement 1.35 m).
Cavalcade de la Saint-Sylvestre
New year is celebrated on a great scale here with 30000 people attending the festivities. There are parades, light shows, concerts and many locals decorate their cars and drive around on New Years Eve before the streets are blocked to cars at four o'clock in the afternoon. On Facebook.
Street art festival focusing on music and sound. There are lots of street musicians giving free concerts.
Another music festival, but with focus on classical music. A temporary stage is built on the Place du Palais de Justice for a big concert in the evening.
Fête nationale
The national day is celebrated with a military parade through Saintes by the Air Force who have a base just outside the city as well as a popular ball at night in the Fernand-Chapsal gardens.
A huge sports stadium with facilities for a range of track and field sports, rugby fields and tennis courts.
Founded in 1953, it's the oldest golf course in Poitou-Charentes. It's the heart of a park 40 hectares in size, and includes an 18 hole course, a practice course, a restaurant and the ruins of a Roman aqueduct.
One of the biggest skateparks in the region.
Big swimming complex designed by architect Éric Lemarié and opened in 2012. Indoors there's a 25-meter-long semi-Olympic pool, a leisure pool with a hot tub, a children's pool, a hammam, a sauna and a squash area. Outdoors there's another 25-meter-long pool with artificial waves and leisure facilities. Also used for events, there are seats for 500 persons indoors (year round) and another 600 persons outdoors (in the summer).
Gym arena open every day, with equipment for aerobic exercise.
Gym with equipment for aerobic exercise, weightlifting and bodybuilding. There are also fitness dance classes.
A small gym with classes in different martial arts from kickboxing to krav maga.
Théâtre Gallia
The theatre was established in a building built by Parisian architect Bourla in 1852 and has remained the city's finest cultural institution ever since. The façade of the building with its many details remains original, the rest was thoroughly modified in 1932 and demolished and rebuilt in 2003. It has a theatre stage and a cinema for art movies. On Facebook.
Ciné Atlantic
One of the largest cinemas in the Poitou-Charentes with eight auditoriums. They screen the latest releases, as well as documentaries and shows including live broadcasts of shows at the Metropolitan Opera in New York. Some screenings have subtitles for the hearing impaired. On Facebook.
Japanese cuisine, mostly sushi sets. The food is prepared on-site with fresh ingredients.
Bakery and snack place with sandwiches, salads, wraps, crêpes and ice cream to eat there or take away. The establishment doesn't have an alcohol license but has a range of sodas and juice.
A range of quality hamburgers, nuggets and sandwiches at low prices. There's a dining room upstairs for eating in, or you can take the food with you.
"Pasta bar" with a range of pastas and sauces, local ingredients are used as much as possible.
Specializing in dishes from the Indian subcontinent such as chicken tandoori, seekh kebab, and lamb tikka.
An old town institution, here you can enjoy sweet and savoury Brittany-style crêpes.
Buffets of fresh seafood and fish - this restaurant is about nothing else.
Inscribed in le Petit Futé et le Routard since its inception, it offers French cuisine in a welcoming environment. One of the few restaurants in town with many options for vegetarians, and there's also English service.
French cuisine with excellent food and service. 25 seats indoors, 35 seat outdoors. Consider making a reservation, because the place is often full.
Asian buffet with Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and Thai dishes where you can eat as much you like. On Facebook.
One of the only Chinese restaurants in Saintes, the place to go if you'd like Chinese food.
Italian pizzeria in a contemporary setting, also take-away. They also have Italian groceries and wine for sale.
Haute cuisine, a good place to go with large parties or to arrange a business meeting. The food is excellent but the ambience is a bit strict.
Gourmet restaurant in the old town.
marocain
Moroccan restaurant with a view to the Charente. You can enjoy tagines, couscous and similar dishes here.
Alsatian cuisine and brewery with several types of choucroute (Sauerkraut).
The theater bar is a nice place to have a glass direct next to the theater and justice palace.
Nice ambiance and sometimes small concerts. They also have tapas, tartines and ice cream.
In the heart of Saintes, in an old decorated building. Here you can enjoy good Italian chocolates, coffees and other hot and cold drinks.
A bar where young and old alike come to have a beer. They have a large selection of beers from England, Ireland, Belgium and Germany.
A lounge bar, brew pub and night club (at weekend nights) with a young clientele. In the weekends there's a DJ, and Thursday is student's night. Specializing in rum- and cognac-based cocktails.
The largest disco complex in the Poitou-Charentes with five dance floors and three restaurants. There are frequent themed nights. Several hotels are nearby and there's a dedicated bus service (Noctam'buss) on Friday and Saturday nights connecting the complex to central Saintes. On Facebook.
Nice breakfasts. Also a bread shop (Boulangerie)
formerly Première Classe
Modern budget hotel near the motorway.
Budget hotel with Wi-Fi, private parking, accessible rooms for disabled guests. Dogs are accepted.
Campground next to the Charente in a calm place, but just a 10-minute walk from downtown. Has washing facilities and Wi-Fi. Accessible for handicapped guests. Dogs accepted.
Next to the Charente in a small village near Saintes. They have a restaurant, Wi-Fi and baby care facilities.
Youth hostel near the Abbaye aux Dames with a capacity of 88 guests. Washing and cooking facilities and Internet access.
Hotel and restaurant.
Hotel and restaurant with a small garden to relax in. Rooms have provate bathrooms, tv, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. Accessible rooms for disabled guests.
Wi-Fi. Rooms have a/c, tv, bathroom, coffeemaker. Accessible rooms for disabled guests.
Hotel with elevator, secure bike garage, Internet access, baby care equipment, private garage, terrace, Wi-Fi. Accessible rooms for disabled guests.
Elevator, secure bike storage, baby car equipment, fax, private garage, living room, TV room, Wi-Fi. Accessible rooms for disabled guests.
Rooms with private bathroom, Wi-Fi, flatscreen tv. Accessible rooms for disabled guests.
Bed and breakfast in a "house with an old heart" with four rooms. Rooms have tv and Wi-Fi. There are laundry facilities for guests and free parking.
Downtown hotel in a 17th century postal building with modern facilities. Accessible rooms for disabled guests.
Two rooms in a building from 1895 at the right bank of the river. Roos have tv, bathroom and Internet access.
The Galeries Lafayette chain has a store in Saintes. It's a good place for shopping for clothes, jewelry and cosmetics. On Facebook.
A smaller shopping center with a supermarket and some smaller shops including a bakery, laundry shop and a book shop.
The Intermarche store has also a gas station and a pharmacy.
Local shopping mall with a pharmacy, a library (with parcel service), a bakery and a restaurant.
The only mall at the right bank of the Charente, with the same selection as the E. Leclerc in Coteaux at the left bank. It features a gas station and a small brewery.
Discount supermarket, part of the Intermarché group.
Discount supermarket of the German chain, near the Coteaux mall.
The second Lidl supermarket, in the east of the city.
The most important mall in Saintes with surroundings, built around a E.Leclerc hypermarket. There's a cinema, many restaurants, chain shops as well as small boutiques.
Built around a Hyper U hypermarket, several small shops.
Tuesday and Friday.
Wednesday and Saturday.
Thursday and Sunday.
By train
Saintes is served by Intercité and TER trains, and there are trains from La Rochelle, Bordeaux, Royan, Niort, Angoulême, Toulouse, Nantes and Quimper.
By plane
There's an airfield for light aviation. The nearest airports with passenger services are in La Rochelle (60 km northwest) and Bordeaux (100 km south).
By bus
Transports Routiers de Voyageurs de la Région Nouvelle-Aquitaine operates buses around the department. Eurolines in turn, has services all over Europe.
By foot
Two Grande Randonnée long distance walking routes go through the city: GR4 from Royan on the Atlantic coast to Grasse in southeastern France, and GR360 (Tour de Saintogne), formed like a distorted…
By bus
Most of the Saintes as well as Saint-Georges-des-Coteaux is served by the local BUSS network. Other nearby towns and villages are served by Allo'Buss buses that operate on demand.
By bike
In the 2010s, dedicated bike lanes have been built around town. There's a bike borrowing service in the city, operated by Cyclocom.
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