Subprefecture and commune in Brittany, France
Photo: via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
Saint-Malo is a city on the coast of Ille-et-Vilaine, the eastern part of Brittany, with a population of 47,000 in 2022. It's a ferry port but is best known for its walled inner town or intramuros.
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The focus of intramuros, this was built in the 1150s / 60s in a mix of Romanesque and Gothic, replacing the cathedral at Aleth.
Ship-owner's mansion of 1725. The guided tour is only in French, and you only see 3 of the 56 rooms.
Fortress on a tidal island, built by Garangeau in the 1690s to a design by Vauban. It's accessible only when the tide is out and the French tricolor is flying.
Large walk-through aquarium with a dozen habitats.
Usine marémotrice de la Rance
The world's first large-scale tidal power station, completed in 1966. The Rance estuary has a large tidal range, driving turbines generating 240 MW. A canal lock in the west end of the dam permits the passage of vessels from the English Channel. Guided tours available, must be pre-booked.
Jacques Cartier or Jakez Karter (1491 – 1557) was born and lived in Saint-Malo. He made three expeditions to Canada (mistaking the Iroquois word kanata, "the village"), mapping the lower St Lawrence river and claiming the area for France. Initially convinced that he'd almost reached China (since his sponsor the king also needed convincing), by his last voyage he realised Canada was on a separate continent. He brought back a fabulous treasure of diamonds that turned out to be worthless pyrites, and the trading colonies he established all withered away. The museum exhibits his life and travels.
Their daily selection of seafood galettes is a cut above the pack.
Speciality galettes with a huge variety of fillings.
Comfortable small nautical-themed hotel within the walled city.
Good location within the walls, mixed reviews for quality.
Venerable hotel, showing its age.
Basic hostel 1 km east of intramuros.
Clean efficient Accor-chain hotel.
Charming half-timbered hotel, interior authentically cramped.
Campsite on Aleth peninsula open April-Sep. Great views, shame about the loos.
By train
Trains from Paris Montparnasse run every couple of hours, with the fastest taking under 90 min and continuing to Brest.
By boat
Brittany Ferries sail here from Poole four days a week (7 hours) and Portsmouth six days a week (12 hours).
By bus
Flixbus runs once a day from Nantes and Rennes, but the usual inter-city transport is the car pool system Blablacar. From Rennes rides are frequent and take 40 min.
By road
Saint-Malo is 70 km northwest of Rennes, follow D137 expressway. From Caen (170 km) take A84 southwest to Avranches, then N175 / N176 to join D137.
Walking is the best way to explore the old town. A dinky "Tourist Train" also chunters around.
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St. Peter · Regional · JER
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