Prefecture and commune in Pays de la Loire, France
Photo: Velvet, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Nantes (Breton: Naoned) is the capital of Pays de la Loire region in northwest France. Historically it was part of Brittany, whose dukes built up its castle and made the town their capital. It was also a major port on the Loire. Nowadays the economy of Nantes is driven by the service sector; in 2023 the population was 327,734.
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Castle of the Dukes of Brittany
Sturdy moated castle built from 1207, though most of it is from 1466. It was a ducal and royal seat, notably of Duchess Anne, whose dynastic marriages sealed the union of Brittany with France in 1532. The Revolution did it little harm until a powder magazine explosion of 1800. It became a museum in 1924 but closed for reconstruction in 1990, re-opening in 2007. The main entrance is west by the tourist office and you can also approach north or south; these all bring you into the courtyard and the ticket office for the museum. Courtyard, ramparts and garden are free to enter.
Magnificent Gothic cathedral built in fits and starts from 1434. In modern times it has been seriously damaged by Allied bombing in 1945, by an accidental fire in 1972, and by arson in 2020. It therefore remains closed. The arsonist was later given shelter in a church mission, in the spirit of "turning the other cheek". He then murdered the mission priest.
Fine Arts Museum
A beautiful building of 1801 with an extensive permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. It has absorbed Chapelle de l'Oratoire, a baroque chapel of 1655 now used as an exhibition space.
Huge collection of minerals, fossils and stuffed animals, plus live snakes.
This T-47 destroyer was commissioned in 1957 and named for a 17th century admiral. Her only battle action was in 1962 as a troop carrier against the OAS uprising in Algiers. She retired in 1988 and is moored here as a museum. Visit by guided tour starting every 30 min and lasting 90 min.
The novelist Jules Verne was born in Nantes in 1828; shipping and the sea figured largely in his early life. He went to Paris to study law in 1847 and a thwarted love affair on a visit home soured him against Nantes. This museum of his life and works opened in 1978 and was renovated in 2005, the centenary of his death. He never lived here but it has his original furniture and personal items.
Gallery of wacky mechanical animals. A guided tour continuously circulates, which you need to join as the guides stir each animal into life, and visitor movement is limited while these are in motion. (You especially don't want to be caught in the path of the monstrous spider.) The highlight is the Great Elephant, which stomps alongside the gallery spraying water at everyone. Those over 13 can ride it for an additional charge - book this in advance, as there are limited seats.
Above-average quality at this sit-in fast-food cafe.
Friendly small grocery cafe.
Small brasserie just north of Feydeau.
Pleasant cafe-bar for coffee and light bites next to the Basilica.
Good Mexican food.
Pleasant coffee-shop and bookshop.
Chain pub near the law courts similar to TGI Friday. Mixed reviews on value for money.
Chic cafe-bar with good menu selection. You're paying for the location.
Smart restaurant with varied European menu.
Spanish tapas and similar cuisine.
Tartare is the specialty here, oozing with garlic.
Small restaurant, so are the menu choices and portions, but fresh and creative dishes.
Rightly called "the most beautiful brasserie in France" for its turn-of-the-century decor. Seafood is a specialty, lively service. Fixed price menus are available for €15 and €25. A cheaper way to experience this delightful place is to go in the afternoon for dessert and coffee.
Very good bistro food in a relaxed atmosphere.
Excellent, imaginative cuisine and friendly service.
Clean well-run site open year-round, on tram route to centre.
Efficient central chain hotel.
formerly Kyriad
Comfy mid-price hotel, the family rooms are spacious.
Great location, some rooms poky, good venue for meetings and conventions.
Comfy simple chain hotel.
Small central hotel, now part of Accor chain.
Slick clean budget hotel with its own parking.
Great reviews for this smart business hotel in a former courthouse.
Modern edge-of-city place with pool, good for motorists, but rooms lack safes.
By train
Hourly trains from Paris Montparnasse take 2 hr 20 min via Le Mans and Angers, and continue to Saint-Nazaire.
By road
From Paris follow A11 west. From the Channel ports follow A28 to join A11 at Le Mans.
By bus
Blablacar runs three times a day from Paris (Bercy-Seine), taking six hours via Paris Orly Airport, Le Mans and Nantes (Route de Paris) to Nantes Airport. In 2023 an adult single is about €30.
By taxi
City fares, last published in 2019, are €7.10 flagfall, €1.78/km travelled and €26/hr waiting. These apply M-Sa 07:00-19:00.
By bike
Nantes is bicycle-friendly, with bike lanes along most major roads, and many small streets only accessible by pedestrians and cyclists.
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Nantes · International · NTE
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