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City in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
Photo: Eric Pouhier, CC BY-SA 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons
La Rochelle is a city in Charente-Maritime on the Atlantic coast of France. It has a charming old town and harbour, and is often called "la ville blanche" (the white city) for its limestone buildings: they're handsome in any weather, but brilliant when the sun shines down from a big blue Atlantic sky. In 2020 La Rochelle had a population of 77,210.
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Bunker built during the German occupation 1941-45 and now a fascinating museum of that period.
Housed in the 18th century Fleuriau Hotel, this depicts La Rochelle's relationship with the Americas, especially Maritime Canada and the French Caribbean.
Land-side maritime museum plus eight 20th century ships moored in the Bassin des Chalutiers. Jan-March the ships can only be seen by guided tour.
Grand collection of mechanical toys and scale models.
You need two hours to see all the multiple habitats and 82 aquariums. Ample signage in English, you don't need to pay extra for the audioguide.
Old-style museum with stuffed animals from many lands. Several rooms are closed for renovation hence the reduced admission fee.
18th century mansion with period furniture, still the home of its builder's family. The park and outbuildings are open April-Oct but you can only see inside by guided tour in July and August.
A 42-m Ferris wheel next to the tourist office.
"Les Maritimes" play rugby union (15-a-side) in Top 14, the top tier in France. They usually do well and qualify for European tournaments. The stadium dates to the 1920s, but has been renovated several times and now has a capacity of 16,000. It's named for Marcel Deflandre, who was club president in 1940 when rugby league ("rugby-a-treize") was outlawed by the Vichy government, its assets handed over without compensation to rugby union clubs, and the union game greatly strengthened in France.
Cheerful inexpensive pizzeria.
Le Resto
Fast-food mussels.
Arab-style kebabs and wraps, open late.
Good seafood on quayside - and that's all they serve, apart from rolls, so it leaves you short of a main meal.
Appreciative reviews for this bistro by the ramparts, serving mostly seafood.
Little Italian restaurant.
Great food in a relaxed setting.
Friendly cafe just west of Vieux Marché, fresh food and lots of veggie / vegan options.
Pleasant bistro in a quiet square.
Restaurant with panoramic views.
Well-known seafood restaurant earning mostly good reviews.
Acclaimed seafood restaurant run by Gregory Coutanceau.
You'll need to book well ahead and have deep pockets for this superb seafood restaurant.
The city is part of Charente-Maritime AOC. It's double-distilled from Ugni Blanc, which is too dry and acidic to drink as wine, at Cognac Godet near the bridge to Île de Ré, and Pineau - Cognac Bossuet who have an outlet in town.
Irish pub with TV sport, welcoming to visiting rugby fans, no food. It's named for the fellow who invaded Killala, County Mayo in 1798 in support of the Irish rebellion, and gave the London government an almighty fright. US President Biden's ancestors emigrated in the aftermath.
The only youth hostel in town. No kitchen or communal lounge, so it may not suit sociable backpackers.
Great value for money in the heart of town.
Good central budget choice, but it helps if you're not tall.
Smart boutique hotel, very central in Vieux Port.
Upmarket hotel run by chef Christopher Coutanceau, part of Relais & Châteaux group, so comfort and dining are excellent.
Another from this budget chain.
2-storey apart-hotel with indoor swimming pool in the "Bastion Saint Nicolas" district. Clean and helpful.
Higher prices but only Ibis quality.
Venerable facade, modern within, and very central.
Comfy convenient place.
By train
TGVs run from Paris Montparnasse every couple of hours, taking 3 hours via Poitiers and Niort.
By bus
Flixbus runs once a day from Paris Bercy Seine, 7 hr. They also run from Nantes (2 hr) and Toulouse (6 hr).
By road
From Paris take the A10 onto N11 for La Rochelle. From Bordeaux take A10 then exit onto A837 then D137.
By boat
Cruise liners occasionally call at La Rochelle, docking at the far end of Viaduc Président Christian Morch, 10 km west of town near the bridge to Île de Ré.
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La Rochelle · Regional · LRH
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