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Commune in Occitania, France
Photo: Christian Ferrer, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Bouzigues is a lovely coastal town in Hérault, southern France. It is known above all for its oyster production and numerous quality seafood restaurants. Bouzigues can be thought of as a seaside resort without the resort, with very limited accommodation, and not too many tourists. It is a perfect getaway for anyone who wants to enjoy a slower pace of life.
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Port de pêche et port de plaisance
The town's delightful little harbour should be the focus of your visit. Traditional wooden fishing boats are moored alongside flashier-looking yachts and all sorts of pleasurecraft. There are four different jetties to walk down, each with its own character and slightly different view. Take a wander past the colourful shack on the easternmost quay nearest the plage des Pyramides; you might see the boat repairman in his blue overalls pottering about on the various crafts under his care, not really working as such, but looking, listening, musing at what needs doing, and often pausing to greet passersby.
Interesting museum all about life in and on the Étang de Thau in all its forms. The first part of the exhibition charts the history of the shellfish industry in Bouzigues from the 19th century to present, including many artefacts from fishermen past and present. If the subsequent aquarium of étang marine life, complete with cooking suggestions for each of the species displayed, seems a bit farcical, you will enjoy the third part of the visit much more. This is a rather in-depth look at the biology of the étang, with a focus on conservation and finding a balance which works for wildlife, the fishing industry and tourists equally. The museum is kid-friendly, and most of the information panels contain translations in English and German.
Discover the pretty backstreets and squares of the old town, admiring the colourful buildings which press in on either side. Try not to miss the old communal well on chemin des Aiguilles, or the charming little garden on the south side of the town church, rue Jean Jaurès. The church (Église Saint-Jacques le Majeur, daily 10:00–19:00. Free.) merits a look inside, as it is the final resting place of the feudal lords of Bouzigues. Finally, if you're standing on place du Général de Gaulle, and wondering why half of the square is 2 m higher than the other half, it is because this was the original harbour; where people and traffic now pass through was once underwaterǃ Take care on some of the narrower streets, as some drive their vehicles recklessly fast.
Cute little petting zoo that is home to all sorts of cuddly critters - goats, pigs, donkeys, deer, cows, emus, llamas - and their equally friendly keepers. Onsite, there are a picnic area and children's playground.
Firefighters' Museum
A hidden gem of an attraction run by volunteers who are themselves firefighters. The museum is home to a great many objects associated with the Pompiers (helmets, uniforms, fire engines) from 1780 to the present day.
A space has been cleared through the seaweed for swimming - stay between the floats. If you paddle softly enough, you will likely see fish basking in the warm shallows. Views over to Balaruc and Sète, and easy access to walks along the étang (see below).
This so-called "little beach" is ironically the slightly larger of the two. It has a net for volleyball, and the advantage of much less seaweed. Views over the oyster beds towards Mèze and, on a clear day, the Pyrenees.
A former railway line turned cycle trail and footpath, links to Mèze in the west and Balaruc in the east across 12 km. The casual visitor will much prefer the route east out of Bouzigues, which runs very close to some gorgeous wetlands and mudflats, allowing you to spot the local birdlife. Hunting buzzards, graceful pink flamingos and various species of heron (grey and night herons, great and little egrets) are common, and the lucky may glimpse the blue flash of a passing kingfisher, or else catch sight of a red squirrel hurrying about its business. It is possible to go as far as Balaruc-les-Bains, but the route loses most of its charm after the large equestrian centre.
Bateau-promenade Bleu Marin
Hop aboard the Bleu Marin for a guided visit to the oyster and mussel beds, including a chance to see the shellfish at various stages of their life cycle as they grow on underwater ropes from larvae to harvest. The commentary is very comprehensive and peppered with banter, though unfortunately is only conducted in French. However, the chatty crew of two warmly welcome English-speaking passengers and provide sheets to read which give a rough summary of the commentary.
Sinaué
Environmentally-friendly and silent electric boats which you can rent without a permit, and take for a day's fishing, sightseeing or offshore swimming. The company train you in navigation and safety before letting you loose, and can recommend itineraries upon request. Wheelchair-accessible boat available by reservation. Contact the company to confirm operation and prices.
Carnaval de Bouziges
A procession of costumed performers and floats accompanies the effigy of "Monsieur Carnaval" through the streets to the belvedere above the harbour, where he is burnt at the setting of the sun. Join the townspeople for a costumed ball in the Espace Fringadelle that same evening.
Brocantes de Bouzigues
Three times a year, stalls selling furniture, linen and all sorts of trinkets turn up to line the seafront. Most of it may be worthless, if harmless, bric-a-brac, but you never know when you might stumble across a gem...
Fête de Saint-Pierre
This festival of the patron saint of those lost at sea begins with mass in the parish church, and continues with a procession of local children dressed in traditional Languedocian costume to the harbour. Here, boats are blessed by the priest and a jet of water is fired in salute. At nightfall, a small boat on the harbour wall is ceremonially set on fire.
Fête Nationale
Though national celebrations occur on 14 July, Bouzigues is typical of small towns in conducting its major festivities the evening before. Expect a torchlit procession, patriotic fireworks, and a public ball on the belvedere, with food, drinks, music and dancing, to last late into the night. Most people spend the 14th en famille, with some choosing to stay at home, perhaps tuning into the televised military parade in Paris, or else attending the regional celebrations in Montpellier. In Bouzigues, the town council puts on family-friendly games and activities at the port all afternoon.
Fête de Saint-Jacques
Celebrating Bouzigues' patron saint, the main event takes place on Sunday. The townspeople march to music from the town hall to the saint's namesake church. That evening, a funfair and the obligatory ball take place at the port.
Foire aux Huîtres
Some 20,000 visitors descend on Bouzigues for an annual celebration of all things oyster. At the heart of things are the shellfish producers, whose delicacies you can sample in abundance, but also present are a multitude of other local food, wine and craft artisans. There are a number of events to keep you occupied, from 'best quality oyster' competitions, to tasting workshops, live music performances and fireworks on the Sunday evening.
Succulent and fresh food served in generous portions, and with friendly service. When it's busy, service can be slow, so it's worth arriving early to beat the crowds.
Jean-Christophe Cabrol has been serving his own étang-grown oysters at his restaurant since 1989. You can dine in on a selection of mixed platters, or take away.
Faultless cooking, and the moules are especially good. Aside from the usual Bouzigues fare, their in-house specialities are mixed seafood brochettes (skewers). The service is inconsistent, depending on who you get.
Remember "Le 29" is pronounced "le vingt-neuf" in French, rather than "le twenty-nineǃ"
Good, solid food. Serves a plethora of typical seafood, as well as burgers "à la française": cheeseburger with quality steak and camembert/reblochon, chicken or swordfish burger with Mediterranean salad; exciting stuff! Reservations by telephone or in person.
A friendly and competent service complements some very fresh and delicious seafood. Pre-order for bouillabaisse (Mediterranean fish stew). If you can, try to be seated upstairs for a better view over the water.
Don't tell anyone, but... this could be the best restaurant in Bouzigues. One chef, one waitress, 16 covers. Intimate setting and superb cooking "à la plancha". Chef Antoine's speciality is octopus, but he seems to be able to turn his hand to all of the local seafood. Booking is essential.
French-style artisan pizza made to order. Mitcho is a popular local character, and cooks at a leisurely pace while chatting to his customers. If you don't wish to wait you can order ahead by phone.
Sports bar that also serves coffee. Mostly frequented by locals. Free wifi and friendly landlady.
Harbourside location with views over marina and étang. Rooms are individually decorated. There is a bar and restaurant on site.
Motel-style establishment with modern rooms and a swimming pool. On-site restaurant with a proximity to the water that is unrivalled in Bouzigues.
Small campsite with space for 48 caravans and campervans. You can also hire a chalet. On-site health club, TV, free wifi, launderette, fridges and bike rental. Also home to two friendly donkeys.
minimarket
Fresh fruit and veg, small deli counter with meats and cheeses, regional produce, tinned goods, alcohol, beach items and other essentials
bakery and cake shop
Great local bakery which makes excellent bread; try the aveyronnais rather than a baguette. Tasty but small selection of savoury snacks and sweet pâtisseries. On the downside, the viennoiseries (croissants et al.) are disappointing, and if you ever manage to raise a smile from the bloke behind the counter, you're a special person indeed.
twice-weekly market
Very small market (about four stalls) selling local produce.
Les Savons de Bouzigues
Specialists in hand-made soaps and cosmetics, which the owner makes herself. Other craft products from local artisans also sold.
Tobacconist and newsagent which also sells some souvenirs and local wine
Vintage clothing and the best postcards depicting Bouzigues.
By car
The busy D613 is a local link road from junction 33 of the A9 autoroute, the main coastal motorway linking to Montpellier, Nîmes and beyond to the east and Béziers, Narbonne and other points south…
By campervan
There is a designated campervan parking area on chemin de la Catonnière, just off the roundabout labelled Bouzigues - ouest.
By bus
60 with a Montpellier tram ride included (Dec 2020).
By boat
With the étang being linked to the open sea at Sète and the start of the Canal du Midi at Marseillan, Bouzigues is a popular stopping point for touring boats, although like with parking, space is…
By bike
While the direct railway line to Bouzigues is long gone, its route is not, and there is still a very high quality green way cycle track (voie verte piste cyclable) running parallel along the coast…
Everything you'll want to see is within a short walk from the port, though some people prefer to discover the town on their bikes.
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