Commune in Corsica, France
Photo: Ghirardi, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Bonifacio is a city at the south tip of Corsica. It has a spectacular location on white limestone cliffs, sculpted and undercut by the sea, so the buildings overhang the edge. It's named for Boniface II of Tuscany, who beat the Saracens, and (circa 828 AD) thought it wise to fortify this spot against counter-attack.
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This tiny chapel marks the spot where the last victim of the plague died in the outbreak of 1528. St Roch/Roque, a 14th-century Montpelier martyr, is particularly venerated for his intercessions against plague, and on behalf of bachelors, falsely accused people, and dogs. His Saint's Day is celebrated annually here on Aug 16.
Bastion Memorial
The Citadel's main museum, chronicling the turbulent life and times of the city.
Palazzu Publicu
Church of Ste Marie
This is the city's principal and oldest church, mostly Romanesque and probably built in the 12th century but much modified over time. It has a prominent bell-tower and three naves, with the central nave containing the relics of St Boniface. At the front, note the loggia, the covered walkway for medieval bigwigs to discuss city business. Beneath this is a large water cistern, fed from adjacent buildings by aqueduct-buttresses spanning the streets. In 1980 they tried to turn the cistern into a conference centre but, strange to say, it filled with water every time it rained.
Steps of the Aragon King
From the SW edge of the citadel, 187 steps lead down the cliffs (their diagonal notch is very visible from the sea) to the Cave of St Barthelemy's Well. This cave, which nowadays can't be entered, has a pool of fresh(-ish) water percolated down from the limestone above, so it was an important water supply for the city. A well was also drilled down directly from near the church of St Barthelemy on the headland. The steps are named for Alfonso V, King of Aragon, who was awarded control of Bonifacio in 1421 by the Genoans but the city held out against him. Fanciful legend has his men fighting up the stairs and being beaten back, but more likely he simply tried to block the water supply to force the city's surrender. He was unsuccessful and left. Reserve on line to get your ticket.
A rare example of Gothic style in Corsica, this church dates from the 13th century. The bell-tower is of no known style: it starts square, turns octagonal, then tops out in battlements. Occasional concerts are held in the church.
Tuscan watchtower
The watchtower is the only citadel structure that remains from the original 9th-century Tuscan fortifications. It's been smashed down and rebuilt several times: the most recent destruction was in 1901 (as it gave enemy artillery too good a marker onto the town) and what you see now is a 1980 reconstruction.
St Dominique was built as a Dominican convent; all that remains is the church (listed above) and this Loggia, the former refectory. Its colonnaded square hosts a Farmers Market on Friday mornings.
Marine Cemetery
Packed with 18th- & 19th-century family burial chapels and funerary art.
Société de promenades en mer à Bonifacio
1-hour and ½-day trips by a consortium of local companies, heading out to the Lavezzi isles. You'll see their boats and hear them barking for customers by the marina TIC.
Rudder of Corsica
The Gouvernail is a rock formation that on the map looks like the rudder of the boat-shaped Corsica. Follow the 168 steps down; there's a late 19th-century bunker dug into the rock for a cannon firing position.
In the morning there is a market where you can buy fresh fruit, pieces of vegetable pies, beignets, etc. Then sit outside on a bench and enjoy a cheap high quality breakfast or brunch with a stunning view.
Spectacular view if you get a table on the terrace to the south.
The restaurant is in the countryside where guests get a professional and friendly service.
Small resort with spa.
Friendly hotel on spectacular location on the highest ground in Bonifacio upper city on the southwestern pinnacle. Only the marine cemetery is between the hotel and the limestone cliffs overhanging the sea 70 meters below.
By boat
Frequent ferries by Moby Lines and Blu Navy link the town with Santa Teresa Gallura in Sardinia. They take cars, and their schedule often allows for a day-trip in either direction.
By road
The main road in is the N196/N198 (or T40) from all points north.80 per hour) and hike or take the Petit Train up to the citadel.
It's a stiff hike up to the Citadel, though if you've arrived by ferry at the western edge of town, it's as quick to stride off up the slope as to walk into town centre for alternatives.
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