
Capital of Heilongjiang, China
Photo: Photo by Lin Yang, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Harbin (哈尔滨 Hā'ěrbīn) is the capital of Heilongjiang Province in northeast China. The city is notable for its Russian influence and the yearly Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival, giving it the unofficial title Ice City.
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
Harbin's old quarter, which covers a wide area of the city near the Songhua River, is still today mostly made up of buildings that were constructed by the Russians at the turn of the 19th century. Most of them are built in baroque or byzantine style with spires and cupolas and interesting shades of yellow, white, green, or red. While St. Sophia is known as the main architectural attraction to the city, areas of the city such as Harbin's old quarter are made up of buildings that have been left untouched since the Russians left. While most of these streets are fairly decrepit and in need of repair, at least the area has been free from the wrecking ball like many other historical districts in China. Only because Harbin has yet to attract the world's investment.
中央大街 Zhōngyāng Dàjiē; lit. Central Avenue
This cobblestone lined street is a pedestrian only street that could serve as a perfect remnant of the bustling international business activities at the turn of the 20th century. The 1.4-km long street is a veritable museum of European architectural styles, including Baroque and Byzantine façades, Jewish architectural wonders, a Russian restaurant, French fashion houses (Fake Chinese Brands), American snack food outlets (Mcdonalds and KFC and a Chinese owned "American Bar"), and a Japanese restaurant. In winter, one can walk out onto the ice or take a dog sledge or horse sledge ride. It is the prettiest site in Harbin as far as the city itself is concerned, however, if you go mid-day during the weekend be prepared to push through the crowds.
A section of the city just west of Zhongyang Dajie is still dominated by Russian buildings built around the turn of the century. Not well maintained but an interesting walk and you can maybe find Russian antiques in some of the thrift stores.
冰雪大世界
A magical kingdom built with 400,000 cubic meters of ice and snow. Highlights include the 500-meter super ice slide, the Snowflake Ferris Wheel, and the Asian同心 Main Tower. Lights turn on around 16:00-16:30, creating a dreamlike atmosphere.
松花江铁路桥
Built in 1900, this was the first bridge across the Songhua River in Harbin and served the railway system for over 100 years. In 2016, with the opening of a new bridge nearby, it was converted into a pedestrian bridge. It offers excellent views of the river and the city skyline.
圣索非亚教堂 Shèngsuǒfēiyà Jiàotáng
One of the few still standing Orthodox churches in the city. It is now converted into a Harbin Museum of Architecture. Inside there are exhibitions of many photographs from old times. Definitely worth going into, however, if you are used to European Churches do not expect the quality.
哈尔滨犹太新会堂 Hā'ěrbīn Yóutài Xīnhuìtáng
Has been restored and contains an impressive collection detailing the history of Jews in Harbin. There were 20,000 at one point and the synagogue is well worth a visit. Further up Tong Jiang Jie is the old synagogue that is now a youth hostel and cafe, with the old Jewish school next door -both worth a detour to look at from the outside.
极乐寺 Jílèsì
Large and active Buddhist temple.
哈尔滨文庙
This Confucius temple is one of the largest of its kind in northeast China. The Heilongjiang Museum of Nationalities can be found inside the temple.
老道外
Laodaowai used to be the poorest part in Harbin. A century ago there were only two districts in Harbin, east (Daoli, "Dao" means Avenue, and "Li" means inside.) and west (Daowai, "wai" means outside). The rich expats lived in the east part, and the poor locals lived in the west part. In the early 1920s, some Chinese businessmen started their business in the area. The constructions they built around that period were combined with Chinese elements, such as crane and peony designs, and baroque styles, and form a unique "Chinese Baroque" architectural style. In 2014, the government renewed the area and now it is a tourist site.
Nowadays, Laodaowai ("lao" means old.) is an area for one to experience "local's" lives (that means the unique architectural style, and food, food, food, food, and food). The area is vaguely defined within Shengping St 升平街 (north), Jingyang St 景阳街 (west), Nanxun St 南勋街 (south), and Nanershi St 南二十街道 (east). If you are confused for where to start with, at Jingyang St, in between Nanxun St and Jingyu St 靖宇街, there is a later-made entrance for the LaoDaoWai area. Start from there and walk to the east, and you will see all the small streets cross one another. There are many doors (locals call them "MenDong" 门洞), which from the first sight might look like private property, in between small stores. Walk through the doors and you will reach the garden inside and the next street.
There are countless snack bars and restaurants in the area, and they are a main attraction. Keep in mind the snack bars are by Chinese definition, and many are small with few tables. They are the taste of Harbin and very popular. But in case you expect western styles (air condition, waitors speak/menu in your native languages, etc.), do not bother to go. Also if you are one of those count calories for every bite, do not go either, since watching others eating while you cannot eat is unhealthy.
Some of the popular nosheries are (from west to east):
Zhang's Stuffed Bun 张包铺 at the cross of Nanxun St and Naner St 南二街. Most popular dishes are rib buns 排骨包, tofu bun 豆腐包. At its busy time expect to share table with others.
Li's Grilled Meat 李家扒肉馆 at No.25 BeiDaLiuDao St 北大六道街 is for meat lover. Feel how the pork melts inside your mouth.
Nanbashun 南八顺 at Nanba St 南八街. Similar with hot pot. At Nanba St there is also a good pancake store. You can schedule your next on diet period after the visit.
LaoRenYi Restaurant 清真老仁义饭店 with several branches is an old and popular halal restaurant. Must try includes steamed dumplings.
At Shiliudao St 十六道街 there is an old market, with BBQ insects.
A few kilometres south of Acheng centre, you'll find the ruins of, the capital of the 12th century Jin dynasty. It's been declared a national historic reserve, and apart from the ruined city walls there's a museum on the site as well.
东北虎林园 Dōngběi Hǔ Línyuán
This is without a doubt Harbin's "must see". Not for the faint hearted or obsessive animal lovers. There are literally hundreds of tigers in several huge pens. If you want to go by bus instead of taking a taxi, take the 88 line (facing the train station, walk into the small street on your left for 300 m before seeing the bus stop) to Shangye Daxue 商业大学. It should take about 30 minutes, and it is the third stop after the long stretch of highway crossing the river. Then, take the 54 bus towards the same direction, and you will see the entrance to the Tiger Park on your right after 5 minutes or so.
江畔公园 Jiāngpàngōngyuán
Long tree covered walkway that stretches the city-side banks of the Songhua river, a really nice and pleasant walk.
太阳岛 Tàiyángdǎo
Park offering a pleasant to stroll during the warmer months and on the weekends newly married couples can be seen taking pictures. In the winter it becomes part of the snow sculpture festivities. However, as with everything in Harbin, the park is still very Chinese with a cage full of squirrels, a petting deer area (just have to buy them some food), go carts, a pond that is just full of turtles, and newly weds sporting bright colored dresses.
兆麟公园 Zhàolíngōngyuán
During the winter this park houses ice sculptures for the festivals, but during the off season, it is a pleasant stroll as well.
葡萄王国 Pútaowángguó
A live operating "organic farm" that has expansive grape and corn fields. In the fall you can enter the fields and pick as many fresh grapes as you want and watch how the Chinese process corn.
防洪胜利纪念塔 Fánghóng Shènglì Jìniàn Tǎ
Built in 1958 to commemorate the successful defense against the 1957 Songhua River flood. The 22.5-meter-tall tower features a circular platform with relief sculptures. It marks the northern end of Central Avenue and is a popular spot for riverside views.
侵华日军第七三一部队罪证陈列馆 Qīnhuá Rìjūn Dì Qī Sān Yāo Bùduì Zuìzhèng Chénlièguǎn
A museum at the site of a former bio-chemical weapons research and testing facility built by the Japanese army during World War II and used to perform experiments on over 10,000 civilians and POWs. The museum tells the story of these individuals. The displays are very extensive with detailed information in both Chinese and English, though you may struggle to see everything due to the very large number of people that typically visit the museum. After looking around the museum, you may then visit the actual buildings where Unit 731 carried out its notorious research, including the main administration building and the burnt-out remains of the prison facilities.
黑龙江省博物馆 Hēilóngjiāngshěng Bówùguǎn
A comprehensive museum housing Heilongjiang's history, nature, and art collections. Permanent exhibitions include "Heilongjiang Historical Relics," "Natural History," and the "Harbin Past — Early 20th Century Social Life" exhibition, which recreates scenes of the city a century ago. Built in 1922, the museum is a landmark of Harbin.
黑龙江辽金历史博物馆
As the name indicates, this museum focuses on the history of the Liao and Jin dynasties. It is said to contain over 10,000 artefacts.
黑龙江省美术馆
A provincial art museum founded in 1962, housed in a three-story European-style building from the 19th century. Its collection focuses on modern and contemporary Chinese art, especially woodblock prints from the Beidahuang and Heilongjiang schools. The museum also holds a significant collection of Russian oil paintings.
黑龙江省科学技术馆
东北烈士纪念馆
During the Japanese occupation, this building was used as the Harbin police headquarters of the Japanese puppet state of Manchukuo. It played a pivotal role in the suppression of all those opposed to Japanese rule. A number of prominent Chinese patriots were imprisoned and tortured here. In 1946, about one year after the Japanese surrender, Harbin came under the control of the Communist Party of China, and the Party decided to turn this place into a martyrs’ memorial. The memorial opened in 1948. Today it has exhibitions on 162 individuals who died fighting the Japanese and 118 individuals who died during the Chinese Civil War.
龙塔 Lóngtǎ
Tallest steel structure in northeastern Asia. Only built for the Chinese need of having something as the biggest and the best. Somewhere along the way they forgot to add any pleasant looking qualities to it. There is a revolving restaurant on top and views of the city. You can walk outside at the top and even strap on a harness for a thrill.
A nice way to work your way back from Sun Island in a gondola car that takes you over the banks of the Songhua.
Built in 1900, this bridge was the first bridge across the Songhua river in Harbin and has served the railway system for more than 100 years. In 2016, with the opening of a new bridge nearby, it was converted into a pedestrian bridge for visitors.
冰雪大世界 Bīngxuě Dàshìjiè
Large buildings and sculptures made of ice. Best viewed after sunset. This festival is one of the main reasons people come to Harbin in winter.
冰雪游园会, 兆麟公园 Bīngxuě yóuyuánhuì, Zhàolíngōngyuán
Rather small exhibits compared to the other two main festivals. Best viewed after dusk.
太阳岛国际雪雕艺术博览会; Tàiyángdǎo guójì xuědiāoyìshù bólǎnhuì
Beautifully carved snow sculptures, massive dimensions. However, if you plan to visit the Ice and Snow World then this is not a must see. Pretty expensive for what you get to see and all other activities in the park are extra.
哈尔滨之夏音乐节 Hāěrbīn Zhīxià Yīnyuèjié
Held every two years in July (next will be in 2018), this festival is organized by the city and brings in famous Chinese bands for free concerts held in the city square.
哈尔滨国际啤酒节 Hāěrbīn Guójì Píjiǔjié
The city takes a break and honors the local "Harbin Beer" for a week. A whole public square is cordoned off and there are stages that host music concerts and dance contests. Most of the beer drunk is the local Harbin brew, but there is a tent for international beers. In the summer of 2005 a number of the foreigners in the city assembled a "drinking team" and ended up getting into a drunken brawl with some locals and got hauled away by the police.
洗浴中心 Xǐyù Zhōngxīn
Literally all over the city. Many local people do not shower in their own apartments but use these public shower houses instead. There are upscale, midrange, and low end places. Check with a 5-star hotel to get the most up to date facility for the type you prefer. Upscale spas will cost about ¥120 plus additional ¥200 and up for a massage. Low end ones cost ¥30 plus an additional ¥100 for massages. Shanghai Tan (上海摊 Shànghǎitān) and Jiannianhua (嘉年华 Jiāniánhuá) are two of Harbin's longest established sauna/bath houses, but nowadays their facilities are entirely neglected as new entrants divert customers.
万达国际电影城 Wàndá Guójì Diànyǐng Chéng
You will notice that during the warmer months (and even sometimes in the winter) there will be legions of senior citizens out on the street doing a group dance complete with drumming and costumes. This is called niu yang ge and if you are adventurous just jump in and dance along!
Very popular among the Chinese in Harbin. Most of the larger hotels have a bowling alley. There is also a bowling club behind the Sino Way hotel with 2 floors and pool tables.
Believe it or not, people swim in the Songhua during the winter, but after all the pollution spills, it's probably not even safe to swim during the summer. If you are looking for a clean pool to swim in, try the pool at the Shangri-La Hotel or Heilongjiang University.
哈尔滨恒详国际健身俱乐部 Hāěrbīn Héngxiáng Guójì Jiànshēn Jùlèbù
One of Harbin's nicest health clubs that includes a full pool, American workout equipment, sauna and hot tub, indoor track and cafe.
美丽方舟健身俱乐部 Měilì Fāngzhōu Jiànshēn Jùlèbù
This is a great and cheap health club. Foreign students and teachers hang out here.
马迭尔冰棍
One of the icon of the city. Visit Harbin without Modern Ice Lolly is like going to Beijing without seeing the Great Wall. While everywhere in Harbin sale Modern Ice Lolly, only the hundred-year shop in Zhongyang St is the real one. Hardly can one find a place with everyone in all age group on the street hold an ice lolly, and it is worth to go and have a look even if you are not a sweet tooth. The shop has no advertisement and the ice lolly has no packing, and it can be sold 10,000 per day, all year around. Only two flavours and ¥5 for one. Do remember to try it in winter when it is -30 °C! Everyone's favourite!
火锅和哈尔滨啤酒 Huǒguō hé Hā'ěrbīnpíjiǔ
Can be found anywhere in Harbin.
串儿; Chuàn'ér
Sold on every street, try asking for grilled bread buns (考馒头; Kǎomántou), it's really good. Finish everything off with an egg and tomato Gada Tang (soup).
哈尔滨红肠 Hā'ěrbīn Hóngcháng
A treat only known to Harbin, you see stores selling it everywhere, it is REALLY good.
Lots of Bread and pastry stores around the city, including Zhongyang Dajie.
Hawthorn fruit stacked on sticks and served covered with a sweet sauce. You tend to find other fruits available also.
Lamb with spices grilled over coals served with sesame flat bread from the nice Uighur guys (from Xinjiang province) on a street between Hong Bo Shopping Center and Guogeli Dajie.
春饼 or 卷饼; Chūnbǐng or Juǎn bǐng
A tasty wrap of potato strips, cucumber, sausage and egg all with a spicy sauce. Sold on the street or in most markets (even Walmart). If you want a real spring roll experience go to Lao Changs on Zhongyang Dajie (mentioned below).
东方饺子王 Dōngfāng Jiǎozi Wáng
Unbelievable dumplings at a great price.
老上号砂锅居 Lǎoshànghàoshāguōjū
Delicious small Dongbei snacks like dumplings, grilled breads.
小七烤鱼 Xiǎoqīkǎoyú
Spicy grill Sichuan style.
A little Cafe near Harbin Institute of Technology run by a Papua New Guinean and his Taiwanese wife. Western food like burgers, milkshakes and an omelet breakfast. Good strawberry and banana smoothies and carrot cake but some of the other items on the menu a bit variable. Coffee is fairly good too.
湘鄂美食
Great Hunan and Hubei style restaurant in a nice atmosphere.
金汉斯啤酒烤肉
Great draft beer that is all you can drink during lunchtime. The food is Chinese BBQ with assorted and spiced meat kabobs. A chain restaurant that is available in any large city in China.
大丰收
Traditional Donbgei cuisine in a unique environment. The only tea in the house is made from wheat.
福成肥牛
Great Hotpot restaurant always bustling with Dongbei atmosphere.
老昌春饼
Pancake like food stuffed with vegetables and meat, a staple of the northeast and tasty as hell! You'll order plates with the fillings, such as meat, potato stripes, soy sprouts, ... and stuff the pancakes with them. Due to high popularity, Old Changs opened a few other branches in the vicinity. If this one is too crowded (expect more than 50 people to be waiting for a table during lunch time), try the branch at Xi 13 Daojie (西十三道街68号) a few hundred meters south.
Great hotpot, especially their beef and potato. Heat source is piped in from the ceiling straight to the pot, none of the wimpy table-cooker stuff. They have a great spicy broth, and there is tableside sauce mixing available.
吴记酱骨炖菜馆
Dongbei style ribs that are simply amazing! You eat them with your hands and are given plastic gloves to keep things clean. The other dishes are great too and it's always packed and full of energy.
吴记酱骨炖菜馆
吴记酱骨炖菜馆
大全烧烤
The locals call this the best BBQ joint in town. Always packed, really good. When you go there, ask for the (Honey Plum Meat) Mizhimeirou
小资再现新派港式餐厅
Harbin's trendiest restaurant in terms of design and the people who go there. Fairly good HK style food.
千里马百合料理
Affordable Korean food in an upscale environment, packed with Chinese families and businessmen out on the town for a dinner.
高丽园
A chain found all over Harbin that is consistently good.
马尔哈巴
This is a great mom and pop sized restaurant which has some low and medium priced dishes. If you don't know Arabian food, the dishes are similar to many Indian and Lebanese dishes. They also have hookahs/shisha with flavored tobacco if desired.
露西亚西餐厅
The owner is half Chinese, half Russian, and has created a fantastic atmosphere that feels like a high-class cafe in London or Paris. Elegant furniture, tasteful music, a working grandfather clock (with chimes) and a display to commemorate one of the last White Russians who lived in Harbin make this a place well worth visiting. Service is good too. The name in Chinese is 'Luxiya' i.e. Lucia → 'Rossiya' (Russia).
必胜客
Standard pizza hut faire. Another Pizza Hut is on Guogeli Dajie.
Upscale hotel dining with a huge assortment of western foods. Managed by a western head chef. The quality of this buffet is reasonable. Look out for the live silk worms in the chef station.
Also known as
Same as above.
波特曼西餐厅
Mentioned in almost all of the guidebooks but its really nothing more than a Chinese version of western food. You are better off going to Hamama's or a Russian cafe. However they do have steak, fillet mignon, and goose liver pate, if you want to spend the money.
京桥铁板烧 jingqiao tiebanshao
Japanese BBQ where you are seated in private rooms and real Japanese cook your food right in front of you!
铃兰日本料理
Another but less expensive Japanese restaurant. Full menu of sushi, tempura, Japanese curry etc. can be had here. Seating is in cozy bamboo paper rooms with heated seats! Atmosphere is very good. You can order affordable packages at around ¥100 per person that includes all-you-can-drink Kirin beer.
天阳金象缘美食餐厅
Thai dishes cooked by Indian chefs. You can buy alligator meat here and listen to a singing Thai dance troupe.
新天地百事成饮食
Extravagant. Maybe a place to close out a business deal.
天天鱼村
Upscale Chinese seafood dining. You can mingle with Harbin's moneyed and enjoy exotic fish. When you walk in you can pick which fish you want from the giant tanks.
布鲁斯酒吧
Dirty, crowded, and dangerous. Everything that is Harbin, Russians, Mongolians, Turks, Canadians, Brazilians, Koreans. Frequent staging ground for fights between Koreans and Mongolians or Russians fighting with Russians. The staff has also been known to get involved in fights or start them. Friday nights 22:30 and afterward get really crazy when about 80% of Harbin's foreign newcomers head out to Blue's to party. Also, at 23:00 you can buy a bottle of Vodka for ¥10, but it is devil water from Anhui has made many people go nuts and dance on the pole for hours. During the week it is full of Chinese.
入迷咖啡
避风塘茶楼
上岛咖啡西餐厅
Coffee house, here you can meet a lot of foreigners
Coffee House, unlike Starbucks it's not quite as packed with people and you can still meet a lot of foreigners here
鹿鱼咖啡
This is a good place to relax and escape the crowds or to warm up on a cold winter day. Situated in a historic Russian building right next to Zhongyang street, the warm atmosphere and nicely decorated surroundings, combined with a creative coffee blend from the friendly owner, will let you forget that you're in a city with a population of 10 million.
There are two foreign students dorms at HIT that may have overnight accommodation. Each room has its own bathroom/TV with good heating during the winter. Can be full during the holidays. Central location with good security. Refused accommodation to non-HIT students in October 2007. No English. Not likely to accommodate you, and you are best to exhaust other options before attempting.
In city centre, about 40 minutes by bus from Harbin Airport. It is cozy, clean and safe. The facilities include TV, air conditioner, fridge, 24 hour hot water, microwave oven, double beds, bedsheets, blankets, closet and with good heating in the winter. Priced at ¥199 per night, including electricity and water fees.
勃莱梅大酒店
Western style hotel that must have been great when it was new.
Fantastic location, right in the middle of the pedestrian mall of Zhongyang Dajie. Very limited English but quite helpful staff, and the history of the hotel makes it an interesting place to stay. There are old artifacts in the lobby such as old movie projectors and silverware. Rooms are comfortable and range from standard to suites.
Decent hotel with English-speaking staff right in Hongbo square
友谊宫宾馆
Good location and decent rooms.
Founded in 1906. The building is in Art Nouveau style. Chinese and Western restaurants.
Impressive lobby.
香格里拉大饭店
Look for discounts, available most of the year except for the ice festival.
万达大酒店
Formerly Singapore Hotel (新加坡大酒店) and "Wanda Hotel", this is out in the new development zone. Comparably new facilities.
华旗饭店
This hotel is billed as Harbin's 3rd 5-star hotel, but most likely it's 3-4 stars. Comparably cheap due to the location.
秋林公司
Founded in 1900 as part of a Russian department store chain, Churin is an icon of Harbin. The company’s main branch on Dongdazhi Street is now a cross between a traditional department store and a modern shopping center, that is to say there is a mixture of shops owned by Churin and shops owned by other companies. The underground floor sells the most famous red sausage and lieba (列吧, the big Russian bread). Also do remember to try the non-alcoholic drink brewed from lieba, Da Lieba Gewasi (大列巴格瓦斯). If you’re interested in Churin’s history, you should head to the staircase in the middle of the building where some old photos are displayed on the walls. If you climb to the top floor, you can also view a small collection of antiques acquired by the company over the years.
西联汇款 xilian huikuan in Chinese
This is the only bank in the city where you can exchange Travelers Checks.
金太阳索菲亚精品城
This shopping centre is Harbin's answer to Beijing's Xidan. Multi story fashion market lined with small stalls selling the hottest fashions from China at cheap prices.
红博世纪广场
Not to be confused with the underground market, this is a huge mall in the basement of the Harbin exhibition center. There is also a fried chicken chain from Texas. There are daily fashion model shows.
This small convenient store has every health care product you can think of including western deodorants and shampoo. If you're in the city just for a few days and you need something quick it's fine, but if you plan to stay in Harbin longer, find yourself a Chinese convenient store. Watsons has a lot of European and American Brands but also the multiple of the prices the same things have in the west. And you still may want to avoid Chinese bleaching creme for your face (especially if you have sensitive skin) and that you can do in a Chinese convenient store, too.
麦德龙
German owned walmart type supermarket with the city's biggest selection of western food, a huge selection of imported wine, alcohol and beer, cheese, pastas and ice cream. It's all there, including the steep prices!
学府书店
Harbin's largest bookstore is near Heilongjiang University on Xuefu Lu (学府路).
花鸟鱼工艺品交易场
Huge assortment of fresh plants, birds and tropical fish.
By train
Being a major Chinese city, Harbin is well connected by train and is a convenient way to travel.
By car
Harbin is connected to the rest of China via the China Highway 102 via Changchun. Harbin is also connected via road to Inner Mongolia, Russia, and Jilin.
By bus
The main long-distance bus station (长途客运站 Changtu Keyun Zhan) is across the square from main train station.
By bus
Still the backbone of Harbin's public transport system, at least until the Metro expands, the bus system covers pretty much every part of the city.
By subway
The Harbin Metro 哈尔滨地铁 has three lines in operation: Line 1, which follows the river east-west, Line 2 which crosses it north-south, and Line 3 which forms a loop on the south side.
By ferry
In summer, several ferries operate along the Songhua River, mainly travelling between the north and south banks of the river.
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