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Bokor National Park is being destroyed by a large hotel development. The eerie charm of the abandoned French hill station that included a shell of a church and the isolated upland nature reserve are rapidly becoming a tacky resort. The road up the mountain is now paved and provides easy access. The cooler climate and sublime views from the mountain remain and may provide some reason for a visit.
Animals have become much harder to spot. The waterfall, which only flows in the wet season, may still provide some sanctuary.
Tours still run up the mountain and cost approximately US$10, depending on bargaining skills. Lunch is included. The excursion can still be worthwhile provided it is viewed as an insight into Cambodia's Great Leap Forward rather than as an atmospheric expedition into a remote and haunting environment.
Several tracks enter the forest, one from behind the old tea plantation, the second from near the waterfalls. It is possible to stay at the ranger station which is basic but comfortable and, contrary to some reports, offers food and French wine.
There are lots of durian farms on the way to Teuk Chhou Rapids. It may be hard to communicate to a tuk-tuk driver that this is what you want to see, but a tourist office / travel agent can help you arrange it. There don't seem to be organized guided tours like for the pepper farms, but you can go to a plantation and ask for permission to look around – before you leave, buy some fruit as a thank-you. Even when durian is out of season it's mildly interesting; in January you can see the unripe fruit starting to grow.
Stand Up paddleboarding, SUP lessons and tours. Kayak rentals, swimming and cafe.