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District in Oddar Meanchey, Cambodia
Photo: User:Travelpleb on Wikitravel, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Anlong Veng is a district and small town in the Oddar Meanchey Province of north-western Cambodia. Its sole claim to notability is its connection to the later days of the Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot, Ta Mok, Son Sen, and Khieu Samphan, the leaders of the organisation, all had homes here. The district also holds the graves of Pol Pot and Ta Mok, as well as the remnants of the structure where Pol Pot was convicted of crimes against the Cambodian people. What might otherwise be an overly morbid itinerary is redeemed by the stunning mountain scenery. There is a border crossing with Thailand's Si Saket Province 13 km north of Anlong Veng town.
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This man-made lake was conceived and carried out by Ta Mok. Many large trees were killed by the flooding, and their trunks jut skywards like huge grey bones. The lake is unsettling to look at, but local people love the spillway created in the rainy season. Fishing, boating and the general splashing around are available, with just as many spectators as participants.
The best-preserved of the Khmer Rouge houses, Ta Mok's house in town overlooks the eerie lake that Brother Number Four created himself. Murals of Angkor Wat and Preah Vihear, as well as a map of Cambodia and a strangely bucolic scene of bathing elephants decorate the walls and are, as yet, undamaged by graffiti.
A tin roof and a sign urging visitors to keep the area clean are all the tribute given to Brother Number One by his country. Oddly enough a Thai lottery winner has erected a spirit house on the site in honour of the former Khmer Rouge leader, who he claims, appeared to him in a dream with the winning numbers. A small pack of children often materialises when visitors arrive.
Not much left here but a shell of a house, overgrown with foliage and 'decorated' with profane graffiti. Water storage tanks, an underground chamber and a nearby pond round off the excitement. The motorcycle ride to the site is the real attraction, passing through fields and jungle in the Damrek Mountains. You will see Cambodia's iconic 'Danger! Mines!' signs on many of the trees. Do not, under any circumstances, venture off the road. Unfortunately, these mines are still regularly killing and maiming Cambodians.
Graffiti artists have been at it again with this little shell although this time, it's mostly young lovers proclaiming their eternal fidelity. Considering the amazing views from this site, it's not surprising that it should have become a regular make-out hill. Oddly enough, there are not one but two tiny spirit houses nearby, ostensibly, recent additions. A guesthouse has also been built less than 100 m away, taking advantage of the view. Those who don't fancy a night up here can relax with a beer in one of the many hammocks. The landmine warning applies to the road here as well.
Ta Mok's grave site seems poised to become a much grander monument than Pol Pot's.
The king of Khmer kitsch with ostentatious furniture complemented with fairy lights. Rooms are clean and spacious. Air-con rooms are available for US$15. Has a restaurant.
Clean, spacious and secure. Has plenty of polished wooden furniture. Air-con rooms are available. Has a restaurant.
A bit small and run-down, but run by a very nice family. Fan and en suite toilet.
Clean and spacious, with a no-frills atmosphere that tends to attract budget travellers rather than the business crowd. Haggling is necessary to get a room for US$5 — the initial asking price of US$7 for a fan room isn't worth it given what else is in town. Air-con rooms are available from US$10. The lakeside setting is a plus, but comes at the price of being a little way from the centre.
A set of rooms in Choam. Air-con rooms are available (US$15).
By taxi
Share-taxis and pick-up trucks connect with Siem Reap (2 hr), Samraong (1 hr), Tbeng Meanchey (2 hr) and others. The four main roads to Anlong Veng are now all sealed.
The town is easy enough to cover on foot. Moto-taxis are eager to take the town's few visitors to the sites listed below for US$7–15.
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