Maranhão, Brazil
Photo: JKB fotos, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Atins is a fishermen's village in Maranhão turned kitesurfing hotspot nestled on the estuary of Rio Preguiças (to the east) into the Atlantic Ocean (to the north), a few km away from the dunes of Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (to the west).
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Seven Women Lagoon
The most common offer picks up clients at their accommodation at around 09:00, visits Lagoa da Capivara from 10:00 to 11:30 and Lagoa das Sete Mulheres from 11:45 to 12:30. From there it stops for lunch at Canto do Atins (see Nearby section below) and returns to the village at around 15:00. Apart from the lagoons themselves, there are beautiful viewpoints overlooking the prairies nearby. Reportedly, tours leaving from Atins depart in the morning to avoid daytrippers from Barreirinhas (which would crowd these sites in the afternoon).
Tropical Lagoon
The most common offer picks up clients at their accommodation at around 15:00 and stays at Lagoa Tropical from 15:40 to sunset. Considered by many the most beautiful lagoon in Lençóis Maranhenses, its waters go from transparent to turquoise to deep blue. It's a great place for contemplation, and there's plenty of time for exploring the dunes around. Reportedly, tours leaving from Atins depart in the afternoon to avoid daytrippers from Barreirinhas (which would crowd these sites in the morning).
Red ibises in flight
The most common offer sails clients from the Port of Atins to the mangrooves on the east side of the shore (10 min away), where one can walk around, pick up fresh cashew fruits if in season, and see the ocean. Shortly before sunset, people congregate on a little dune and wait for the red ibis to fly over their heads. It's common to then hop on the boat to watch the sunset from the water (but honestly that's a bit pointless since the view differs very little from the one that can be seen everyday for free from the beach). Compared to the similar tour done on the Paraíba delta region, this one is nice for the increased sense of proximity with the birds, but the flocks are much bigger on the delta. Local fishermen might offer to take you on this trip if you linger on the beachfront long enough - that's a great deal since for the same price you will have a private tour and can choose exactly when to move.
Virtually the only activity available in Atins that's not water- or sand-related
The cheapest meal in town: three types of skewers for R$ 5 each, including a portion of rice, salad or bread free of charge.
The prato feito of churrasquinho (barbecued chicken or beef) with rice, mashed potatoes, farofa and salad costs R$ 20.
Considered the best place for shrimps in Atins village, the most popular plate is a shrimp risotto-like dish served inside a pinapple, R$ 90 for two.
Once you get tired of eating rice, beans and farofa, come here for some real Italian fare. Dishes are made inhouse with fresh, natural ingredients. The owner and cook is an Italian man who helped put Atins on the kitesurfing map. They do not accept large groups.
The most popular dish, and the one that made it famous, is the barbacued shrimps, which comes with the usual rice, beans, farofa and salad. Also delicious is the camarão cremoso (shrimps in creamy coconut milk sauce). Remember people go there for good food, not for kind service. Portions are hearty.
Offering a similar menu and reportedly a much kinder service, this restaurant is more popular with Brazilian tourists and tends to be busier at lunch time. Locals say it occasionally affects food quality.
Serves burgers and homebrewed beers on tap (Pilsen and beer of the week).
Rooms are spacious and have independent shower, sink and toilet rooms. Breakfast is not included, but it offers drinking water and free use of wifi, guest kitchen and washing machine. It has an açaí stall and is across the road from the most popular bar in town.
Nice breakfast, free drinking water and a nice collection of hammocks under the shades of jambo trees. The showers are simple but seem like waterfalls, which is great to wash away the sand that inevitalby sticks to the skin and hair in this dunes region. There's a kitchen they use to prepare breakfast, but if you ask nicely, they allow you to cook. The pousada building is on the same land of the owner's house, which gives it a family vibe. Seu João, the owner, is a longterm inhabitant of the area and loves to tell tales of how Atins became what it is.
A huge property with bungalows dotted on the lawn, among the many animals that justify its ranch name. Everything is spotless clean and the decoration has a nice albeit kitchy attention to detail. If you want to join a tour, even if you're not staying there, it's possible to whatsapp their manager around 08:00 and inquire what is being organized for the day: +55 98 9190-9646.
Stylish boutique hotel, close to the beach and geared towards kiters, individual travelers as well as families (larger chalets), couples and groups of friends. Yoga facilities, a restaurant set at a fish pond, and view towards the beach.
The closest thing to a supermarket around. Also doubles as a stationery shop.
Dona Nonata is a smiling old lady who sells materials for artesanato (handcrafts) as well as hats, sous-plats and other objects made by her. Her shop also doubles as a pharmacy.
Overland, the connection with Barreirinhas is assured by private but regular 4x4 truck services doing Atins-Barreirinhas-Atins.
Read in the guideAtins is small, but do not underestimate the distances as all the streets are made of soft sand and walking them is tiring.
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