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Largest city in Benin
Photo: Cellule de communication et l'administration de Azalaï Hôtel Cotonou au Bénin, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Cotonou is the largest city in Benin and the country's primary port of entry for visitors. The city is in the south of the country, on the coastline.
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
Notre Dame des Apotres
Noted for its distinct burgundy and white striped tile architecture. The cathedral is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Cotonou.
Run by one of Benin's first families (current head Lionel was defeated in a presidential election in 2016), the Fondation Zinsou is devoted to showing contemporary art in Benin and providing supporting arts education for children. Their main Cotonou gallery hosts rotating exhibitions and is probably the best place to snag a peek of contemporary Beninese art, though the Fondation also exhibits internationally-renowned artists to provide the Beninese public the chance to see these works in person. An institution worthy of any city, but acutely needed in Cotonou.
The largest mosque, and possibly all of Benin, it's a center of it all for Cotonou's Muslim communities. Zongo is a Hausa word meaning "foreigner", which gives an idea of the pan-Africanness you'll find in the neighborhood.
A bizarre Cold War anachronism, this traffic circle features a larger-than-life statue - seemingly rising out of nowhere - of Bulgaria's first Communist leader, Georgi Dimitrov. There used to also be a statue of Lenin in the city, but it was torn down when Benin ceased its efforts to become a communist nation.
Martyrs' square
A big North Korean-built monument to those who died fighting against colonialism. Hosts artists, a food truck, and occasional public concerts.
Statue to honor the Agodjié (Amazone) women warriors of Abomey, Kingdom of Dahomey, as popularized in the movie The Woman King.
Statue in tribute to resistance fighter Bio Guera on horseback in a charge against the French colonialists.
Red Star
A roundabout that is another tribute to Benin's communist past in the form of a large red star, but you are probably better able to see it from a plane if you get the chance upon departure or arrival.
Avion sur la plage
You can enter this old Lockheed L-1011 Tristar which the owner has parked on the beach
The Institut Français is a fixture of the Cotonou cultural scene, holding concerts, film screenings, theater, stand-up comedy, and more.
The national stadium of Benin and anchor of a sports complex, Stade de l'Amitié hosts not only football matches, but also concerts and markets on the adjacent esplanade and parking lots. The Stade is also the site of a large number of restaurants and bars, making it a popular location for Beninese to head on weekend evenings to get the party started.
Yerevan Beach Playground
Interesting stretch in that you have an Airbus A300 parked in the sand behind you. May be a little dirty. Just west of here is an extensive beach called Fidjrosse Beach (Plage De Fidjrosse). With both of these, watch out for powerful surf and don't go after dark.
Another beach with the well-known namesake and even a sign of him if you want a photo op. This beach is a little dirtier than the other, and also subject to strong surf and security considerations.
The go-to for fast-food here. Cotonou may lack McDonald's and KFC, but it's got a proper shawarma spot that also does ace burgers and other Lebanese dishes.
A local institution that's been running for several decades. This is not the very best Beninese food you will eat, but it's a great introduction: they have an ample selection of dishes and an indoor dining room, both of which are far from the norm at low-end restaurants and maquis here.
This maquis does not have a name, but you'll know you're there when you see a grillmaster tending to meats cooked over a grill made from an oil drum. This is the best place in Cotonou to score grilled pork or "hanlan", more traditionally associated with Porto-Novo.
A bakery and brunch spot that's always packed. Offers a range of breads and pastries, often using locally-sourced products (some of which are also sold here). Affordable crêpes, omelettes and sandwiches are available if you want to sit in.
Cotonou outpost of a chain that serves Italian-style ice cream, paninis and pizza across the Global South, Ci'gusta rapidly became the city's top spot for ice cream upon its opening. A welcome respite from the equatorial sun, though it does get crowded.
A French-run restaurant with spiffy throwback décor, L'Aubergeade serves African and European fare in large portions, especially grilled meat and fish. There's also a smart cocktail menu here - overall, great value for your franc.
An oasis way out from the centre along the beach, La Cabane du Pecheur is the best spot in Cotonou for seafood. There's a large selection of fish and other seafood, usually caught fresh, and grilled in a style that will satisfy both African and European palates. Take a 4x4 if possible.
An incredible spot for Lebanese food, with a significant Lebanese clientele. Fantastic hummus, baba ghanouj, and other Lebanese specialities, fresh-baked bread, perfectly grilled meats and more at reasonable prices. Note no alcohol served.
Maquis du Port does excellent pan-West African fare at upmarket prices. With its seaside location, it can be counted on for fresh fish and is open late.
Pili serves classic grilled meats: chicken, guinea fowl (a bigger, uglier, tastier chicken), beef and fish - all with a liberal helping of piment on the side. There are salads, side dishes and wines, but that's not why you're here.
Probably the best restaurant in Cotonou. Serves up a wide variety of Indian dishes from across the subcontinent, and has a few Chinese-style dishes as well. Good luck finding a nicer, more engaging person to take your order than the guy who runs this place: he's a gem who will make certain you have as much or as little spice as you want.
Believe it or not, Cotonou even has decent Thai. With the local preference for piquant plates, Southeast Asian food actually fits in well here. Wide range of curries, soups, noodles and rice dishes available.
As a former Marxist-Leninst state, Benin cultivated ties with Mother Russia - sending students for cultural exchanges and building Stalinist monuments around town. Those days are gone, but Slavic gastronomy still survives in the form of this swank outpost, which also boasts a well-stocked vodka bar.
Cotonou is very short on the type of coffee shops where hipsters congregate to bury their nose in their laptops. This is the closest thing to it, and probably the only place you can find iced coffee. The colonial undertones are wack, but they always have a rad collection of African tunes and books for sale. Also does a happy-hour on Fridays from 18:00-21:00.
Most come for live music on Friday nights, when the house band plays afrobeat, jazz and even 1950s rock-and-roll until the wee hours. But it's good to drop by any night of the week for a cheap beer right on the beach under the glow of the Christmas-kitsch lights.
There are innumerable buvettes in the complex surrounding Stade de l'Amitié, so you really can't go wrong, but a good choice is Drink City - chiefly due to the beer on tap that is available. There are even rumours that they have had Guinness on tap, a real rarity, in addition to the more common Castel. Rotisserie chicken and grilled fish are on hand for the hungry.
A sprawling, multistory complex that includes a nightclub and rooftop lounge, Maison Blanche is one of the more comfortable places to enjoy beers at local buvette prices.
The main spot for expats to hangout in Cotonou. Come by for a Saturday night happy hour (18:00-18:00) to order a beer tower and see yovos gettin' rowdy.
Part buvette, part funky art installation, Le Parking is a neat corner out in Fidjrosse. You'll see why they've named it Le Parking once you've arrived: one of the artists here has repurposed an old VW van to be part as part of the fixtures.
Tucked away at the end of the Haie Vive strip, MAD Lounge is a hookah bar popular with twentysomethings, who come dressed to impress. It's the kind of place that has Trace Urban on at a good volume, but still feels relaxing thanks to the airy, thatched-roof setup and comfortably plush furniture. Good spot to start out before a night of dancing.
Probably Cotonou's foremost live music venue. It's not very big, but there is a good-sized, professional-looking stage in the back, and a bar stacked with cases of beer in the front. Has an eclectic roster of bookings. The kind of place with Fela Kuti and Thomas Sankara portraits on the walls.
Code Bar has been the trendiest spot for both locals and visitors to party since it opened. It's not quite a club, more an open-air layout and lounge-y cabanas. Plenty imbibe the bottle service or cocktails and take a turn on the dance floor to the blend of African and hip-hop beats. Also hosts a popular Thursday happy-hour BBQ.
Is a local artists' collective that hosts weekend concerts: Thursday salsa, Friday reggae, Saturday jazz, though the program can vary. Get in touch with the local Rastafaris in the upstairs lounge.
Seems a bit out of place: like a Hard Rock Cafe descended on a slapdash African city. Nonetheless, you'll find lots of bluesy electric guitar music, and drink prices aimed at the wealthy toubab clientele.
Fan room.
The House CanelYa
Smallish accommodation in a converted apartment building type of situation, with garden and bar and a few blocks from the beach.
This one is right on the beach with a restaurant and bar overlooking the beach, and has a pool, a/c, and wifi.
Great for those needing access to Akpakpa and central Cotonou. Has free Wi-Fi and a rather nice swimming pool. There is a free shuttle service for the airport. The Sunday all-you-can-eat buffet (10000 CFA) is worth the trip even if you're not staying here.
An African hotel chain popular with business travelers. This isn't the newest hotel by any means, but it's been well-maintained, the rooms are comfortable and even stylish, and it's close to the Port of Cotonou and the main commercial areas in Ganhi.
A newish, mid-tier hotel that is in good shape.
A fascinating place that is allegedly the largest market in West Africa, and it is huge in both size and range of products. Be prepared to bargain and brace yourself for noise, crowds, scents and sensory overload.
Where artisans sell their products, everything from figurines traditional masks to richly-coloured cloth. Can be a bit of a tourist trap with some pressure to buy.
By car
From Porto-Novo, head south on RNIE1 and then west for 45 minutes to Cotonou.
By bus
Buses from nearby capitals Accra, Lagos and Lome are plentiful. Amongst others, ABC Transport offers daily services.
By bush taxi
Virtually every Beninese town has bush taxi transport to Cotonou, although smaller towns in the north will probably only have one per day or fewer, or may only get you to the next-closest town with…
By train
There is no longer train service in Benin.
By taxi
Conventional drop taxis taking you directly to your destination like you might find in New York or London are not the norm in Benin - most taxi drivers wait at fixed intersections for passengers…
On foot
Cotonou is not a particularly attractive city to wander about on foot, but much of it is also based on easily navigable grid system - making foot travel a decent option for those looking to wander or…
By car
Driving in Cotonou can be harrowing.
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