City and urban community in Shirak, Armenia
Photo: Armenak Margarian, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Gyumri is the second largest city in Armenia and the capital of Shirak Province in Northern Armenia. The city was hit hard by the 1988 Spitak earthquake, the consequences of which are still visible throughout the city in the 2020’s. The city is known as a cultural hub with numerous art galleries and a couple of good museums. The city is home to a large Russian military base which still dominates a part of the city (and provides employment). Russian and Armenian soldiers in uniform are a common sight.
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Huge square in the middle of town, with a church, a cathedral, a massive government building, fountains, restaurants, and all adjacent to the old town with great architecture and some small museums.
The big, round, black fortress on the top of the hill overlooking Gyumri is a good spot to take in the view. It once protected the Russian Empire from the Ottoman Empire. Nearby is the huge "Mother Armenia" statue.
If you're spending a few days in Gyumri, make your way over to this church, which is a bit different from the norm.
This museum is nearer the highway to Yerevan, and has beautiful traditional architecture, interesting rooms, and a cool dining room where you can order a meal ahead of time.
This gallery houses over 620 original paintings, ceramics, and graphics by Mariam and Yeranuhi Aslamazyan—Armenia’s pioneering female artists. Being well-integrated into Soviet political establishment, the sisters were able to travel a lot, which is reflected in both artists’ colorful works, in a fusion of Armenian heritage with global influences.
The most visited site in the Gyumri vicinity, some of the buildings here stood the test of time, some have been painstakingly restored by an Italian-Soviet joint team, and some buildings only have left behind their foundations to remind us of their past presence. Alongside a river, many Armenians come here for barbecues (khorovats), especially on the weekends. The pink stones contrast nicely with the green of spring, and the brown grass of late summer and fall.
Meet your guide at the City Research Center before starting your tour around the city of Gyumri. Despite a catastrophic earthquake in 1988 and the social and economic hardships that followed, Gyumri has maintained a strong cultural identity and charm, including a well-preserved old town. Strolling through the narrow streets of Gyumri’s historic district, visitors will find buildings and works of art that are both traditional and new, signaling the city’s rebirth.
Meet Albert and Avetik at the Vardanyan studio, just outside the artistic city of Gyumri. They will lead you through their family’s art-filled home and studio to demonstrate the entire process of artistic creation—from drafting to modeling to molding and final processing. You will see how each artist works in different materials but conveys the same underlying artistic philosophy. Albert's sculptures feature beautiful figures and more in bronze, gypsum, stone, and clay. Hrachya is a painter and mixed-media artist who often uses woven materials, which reflect the renowned traditions of Armenian carpet weaving, and makes innovative uses of color and depth. Albert’s youngest son Avetik is an architect, who draws inspiration from a variety of sources, including Gyumri architecture, local stone, wood, natural landscapes, and Christianity. Throughout the tour, they will present their creative visions for sculpture and painting, as well as Gyumri’s long traditions of artistic expression.
Blacksmithing has been one of Armenia’s most important crafts for centuries. It has been especially important in Gyumri, where there were exactly 247 blacksmiths, according to a 19th-century inventory of guilds. One of those blacksmiths must have been an ancestor of Gagik Martirosyan, a sixth-generation blacksmith, who in 1986 was nominated as “the best blacksmith” of the Soviet Union and in 2015 was named Armenia’s “National Blacksmith.” Today Gagik owns the Yerankyuni (Triangle) restaurant, named for a famous Armenian film set in World War II, which tells the story of five blacksmiths from Gyumri (known then as Leninakan).
Professor Susanna Mkrtchyan founded the Gyumri Aesthetics Center in order to preserve traditional Armenian values. Located on one of the oldest streets around Gyumri’s historical central square, the Center initially occupied the kolkhoz shop that sold the fruits and vegetables of collective farmers. Further expansions and renovations followed—particularly after the devastating earthquake of 1988. Gyumri Aesthetics Center is a place that fosters creativity, artistic self-expression, and art therapy to thousands of children, ages three to eighteen. The arts and crafts taught there include painting, dancing, singing, embroidery, rug and carpet weaving, crocheting, lacemaking, national costumes, doll-making, and traditional Armenian cuisine.
Join Karine in her kitchen and learn her family recipe for making chanakh—a nutritious comfort food, usually cooked with beef, but also sometimes with lamb. While you wait for the main dish to cook, you’ll have an additional option to make sweet pokhind dessert from whole-wheat kernels roasted and then ground into flour. Once you’ve got the basics down, you’ll mix the pokhind flour with a base of honey or milk and then add the ingredients of your choice, such as nuts and dried fruits. Then, roll everything together into ping-pong-sized balls of sweet flavor. After your meal, take a short tour of the farm where you may see, feed, and take pictures of the animals, sheep, cows, chickens, and indigenous Armenian Van cats and Gampr dogs.
Visit the workshop and studio in Gyumri and learn from Hasmik about her experiences reviving the traditional national costumes with her own signature style.Because Armenia possesses such a rich writing culture, you’ll learn about “bird letters,” a calligraphic tradition that entwines images of birds with the elegant letters of Armenian script. On either chiffon or silk, Hasmik will show you how to paint a scarf with your own bird letters, creating a special souvenir to take home. While the painting dries, get in the spirit and dress up in traditional Armenian costumes for your very own photoshoot. In the late 19th century, family photography became a common ritual in Armenia to mark special occasions and to demonstrate close kinship between generations and in-laws.
Meet with the guide and take a tour of the gallery to learn about the art and lives of the Aslamazyan sisters. After the tour, a local artisan will tell you more about their artistic styles and techniques. The sisters used motifs from their home in Armenia, their extensive travels, and their own creativity to create expressive works of art on everyday ceramics. You may choose to paint a miniature ceramic plate or to learn a decoupage technique on ceramic ornaments. While painting or while trying decoupage, try some tea or coffee and sweets in the garden courtyard. The gallery’s inner courtyard and wooden balcony are typical of 19th-century urban architecture in Gyumri. You may take your art piece home with you. Other souvenirs made by local Armenian artisans may be purchased in the gallery shop
Vazgen will share with you some of the main techniques for making Armenian pottery, and the current efforts to revive those traditions. By touching, feeling, and smelling the clay up close—and at different phases of production, from raw to baked to glazed—you will fully understand and appreciate the traditional techniques and processes. You will hear about Vazgen’s careful research to discover the best raw materials to make the best clay and how he creates various colors with different glazes, including the use of milk. Vazgen will also demonstrate the different tools and equipment he uses (such as molds and kilns) to fashion a variety of plates, bowls, and ritual pots for everyday life.
Mamikon Varderesyan is a young artisan and experienced biker who has developed two biking routes that allow visitors the opportunity to learn more about the people and places of the distinctive Shirak region. Mamikon’s two bicycle routes begin and end in Gyumri’s Independence Square,The Gyumri-Marmashen Trail, 50 kilometers long, takes you to: Marmashen Monastery,No photo description available.The Gyumri-Lernut Loop Trail, 66 kilometers long, takes you to: Lernut village where 150 people live on Shirak’s mountain slopes; the historic Jajur railway station at the trail’s highest point (2000 meters); the Soviet bunker that connects several underground tunnels that served as bomb shelters; the natural egg-shaped monument, known as Tsak Kar, considered sacred since pagan times; and Hatsik village.
A convivial spot to grab a coffee and the eponymous ponchik, a puffed ball of fried dough (reminiscent of the Indian poori) with warm cream inside, or something more substantial - a salad or a sandwich. Frequented by expats - because (very unusually for Armenia) the premises are non-smoking; the word seems to have gotten around to the tourists as well. There is another branch on Abovyan 248.
A branch of the national chain right on the Ankakhutyan square. The place is big, so there is rarely any wait. English menu. The pizzas are competent, but steer towards Adjarian hachapuri - boat-shaped creations of pizza dough and cheese, baked in the same oven, with an egg (or two, if that's your preference) cracked into the hollow and coming to the table barely set - it continues to cook as you tear the pieces off both ends and dip them inside. Messy and delicious.
Huge glass covered space, with water, plants, etc., bringing the outdoors to the indoors.
Nice cafe on the main pedestrian street which serves, among other things, decent coffee.
Italian restaurant and self-styled "lounge-cafe". The food is nothing spectacular, but the location is great at the end of the main pedestrian street.
Fish farm
Basic wine bar.
A basic bar/pub.
Tol chill bar
Western hotel. Good location for walking around in the center.
Very cozy homestay in the apartment of a local teacher. Close to the city centre.
By marshrutka
By train
Train options used to be limited to 2 daily departures from Yerevan, one leaving mid afternoon and one early evening around 18:00, with journey time 3 hr 10 min and the cost 1,000 dram.
By car
If you drive from Yerevan, take the federal highway M1.
By tour
Another good option for a visit to Gyumri is a day tour from Yerevan.
Gyumri's historic town center is quite walkable, and fun to explore, but beyond that it is a bit of a sprawling town, and to see everything it has to offer in a day, a car is needed.
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