Fes is the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco. Fes is on Priceline's list of trending international destinations for 2027, and its UNESCO-listed medina feels like a medieval city that never stopped working. Founded in the 8th century by Idris I, Fes preserves the largest car-free urban zone on Earth.
Inside its maze of more than 9,000 winding lanes, donkeys haul cedar timber across stone ramps, artisans chisel mosaic tiles by hand, and orange blossom mixes with roasting cumin and the smell of the tannery vats.
Which is better, Fes or Marrakech? Many tourists only see Marrakech.
But Fes gives you a slower, more authentic look at North African heritage, with old schools of learning, quiet courtyard riads and craftsmen still working by hand in the lanes.
Understanding Fes: the three city zones
Before exploring, it helps to understand how the city is divided:
- Fes el-Bali (Old Fes): Founded in 789 AD, this is the historic walled medina of Fes, Morocco's oldest imperial city, and where you'll spend most of your time. Cars cannot enter here. Everything moves on foot, by handcart, or on the backs of mules.
- Fes el-Jdid (New Fes): Constructed in the 13th century by the Marinid dynasty, this quarter houses the Royal Palace (Dar al-Makhzen), the historic Jewish Mellah, and quieter residential markets.
- Ville Nouvelle (Modern City): Built by the French during the protectorate in the early 20th century, this modern district features wide tree-lined boulevards, sidewalk cafes, the main ONCF train station, and contemporary hotels.
Heading on to the desert or Marrakech? Our 7-day Morocco itinerary shows how Fes links to the Sahara.
What to see in Fes, Morocco
Exploring the medina requires patience and a good pair of walking shoes. Here are the monuments you shouldn't miss:
1. Bab Bou Jeloud (The Blue Gate)
Bab Bou Jeloud is the primary western gateway into Fes el-Bali. Built in 1913, the triple-arched gate features striking blue ceramic tiles on its outer facade to represent the signature color of Fes pottery. Step through to the interior side, and the tiles shift to green to symbolize Islam. Outside the gate, you'll find open terraces where locals sip fresh mint tea and watch street life unfold.
2. Chouara Tannery
Operating since the 11th century, Chouara is the oldest and largest leather tannery in Fes. Raw sheep, goat, cow, and camel hides are first soaked in white vats containing water, limestone, and pigeon droppings, which soften the leather. Workers then knead the hides with their bare feet before transferring them into round earthen pits filled with natural dyes: saffron and turmeric for yellow, cedar wood for brown, poppy for red, and indigo for blue.
Leather shops have terraces over the vats with the best views, and at the door, staff hand you a sprig of mint to hold under your nose, because the smell of ammonia is strong.
3. Bou Inania Madrasa and Al-Attarine Madrasa
Founded between 1351 and 1356 by the Marinid sultan Abu Inan Faris, Bou Inania Madrasa is one of the few religious institutions in Morocco open to non-Muslim visitors. Its central marble courtyard displays monumental craftsmanship, featuring intricate zellij geometric mosaic tilework, carved plaster arabesques, and cedar wood lintels carved with Quranic calligraphy. Across town near the spice markets, Al-Attarine Madrasa is smaller but displays equally impressive tile geometry.
4. University of al-Qarawiyyin
Recognized by UNESCO and Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating university in the world, al-Qarawiyyin was founded in 859 AD by a wealthy refugee woman named Fatima al-Fihri. While the central prayer hall is reserved for Muslims, you can peer through the ornate brass gates into its courtyard of marble fountains and horseshoe arches.
Comparison of Fes vs Marrakech
This table compares Morocco's two premier historic cities to help set your expectations:
| Characteristic | Fes | Marrakech |
|---|---|---|
| Atmosphere | Scholarly, traditional, contemplative | Cosmopolitan, high-energy, commercial |
| Medina layout | Enclosed canyon-like alleys, car-free | Open public squares, busy scooter lanes |
| Artisan crafts | Hand-hammered brass, glazed blue pottery | Woven wool rugs, modern design studios |
| Nightlife | Quiet riad dining, rooftop tea terraces | Trendy cocktail lounges, rooftop DJ sets |
Practical 3-day Fes travel itinerary
This plan covers the medina's big sights without wearing you out:
Day 1: Western medina and historic madrasas
- Morning: Enter through Bab Bou Jeloud. Walk down the main pedestrian artery of Tala'a Kebira. Tour Bou Inania Madrasa and admire the Water Clock facade across the street.
- Midday: Stop for lunch at a shaded courtyard café, sampling pigeon or chicken pie (pastilla) dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
- Afternoon: Wander east toward Place Seffarine, where coppersmiths hammer massive brass cooking pots. Visit Al-Attarine Madrasa and browse the herbal spice stalls.
- Evening: Relax on your riad's rooftop terrace with hot mint tea as the sunset call to prayer echoes across the valley.
Day 2: Leather tanneries and artisan workshops
- Morning: Hire a certified local guide for a deep dive into the crafts quarters. Visit Chouara Tannery from an upper leather balcony.
- Midday: Enjoy a slow lunch of slow-cooked lamb tagine with prunes and toasted almonds.
- Afternoon: Walk up to the Marinid Tombs perched on the northern hillside. From this high ridge, you'll look down across the entire sea of flat medina roofs.
- Evening: Dine at a restored riad restaurant accompanied by live Andalusian lute (oud) music.
Day 3: Royal Palace, Jewish Mellah, and pottery hill
- Morning: Take a red petit taxi to Fes el-Jdid. Photograph the seven gilded bronze doors of the Royal Palace. Walk through the Jewish Mellah with its overhanging wooden balconies and visit the 17th-century Ibn Danan Synagogue.
- Midday: Continue south to the Potters' Quarter (Ain Nokbi). Watch master ceramicists shape raw gray clay on foot-powered wheels and chip geometric tiles for zellij mosaics.
- Afternoon: Pick up souvenir ceramic bowls glazed in cobalt blue before heading to the train station or airport.
Navigating the medina without getting lost
Getting disoriented in Fes el-Bali isn't a failure—it's part of the experience. But keeping these practical rules in mind saves stress:
- Follow the two main arteries: Tala'a Kebira (Big Slope) and Tala'a Seghira (Little Slope) run parallel downhill from Bab Bou Jeloud to the heart of the medina. If you ever feel lost, ask a merchant for "Tala'a Kebira" or "Bab Bou Jeloud."
- Use offline maps: Download an offline map on Maps.me or Google Maps before entering. While GPS can drift between four-story stone walls, the main pedestrian spine remains clearly traced.
- Faux guides: Young men near the gates frequently claim that a street is "closed" or that prayer is taking place, offering to lead you to a tannery for a fee. Politely decline with a firm "La, Shukran" (No, thank you) and keep walking.
- Official guides: Booking an official licensed guide through your riad or the regional tourism office for your first morning costs around 300 to 450 MAD ($30 to $45 USD). It's an excellent investment that keeps informal touts away while explaining the history.
Entry requirements, safety, and money
Here is what you need to know regarding travel formalities:
- Visas: Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, and EU member states can enter Morocco visa-free for stays up to 90 days. Check your passport requirements using our visa checker tool.
- Official guidance: You can review security advisories and consular alerts via the UK Foreign Travel Advice for Morocco and the Moroccan National Tourism Office.
- Cash and currency: As of October 2026, Morocco uses the Moroccan Dirham (MAD). Roughly 10 MAD equals $1.00 USD or €0.92 EUR. Cash is king in the medina. Credit cards are accepted at larger riads and upscale carpet emporiums, but food stalls, guides, and red petit taxis require cash. Keep a stash of 10, 20, and 50 MAD banknotes in your pocket.
Typical travel costs in Fes
Fes is still cheap next to southern Europe or North America:
- Riads & hotels: As of October 2026, authentic mid-range riads with tiled courtyards and breakfast included cost 450 to 900 MAD ($45 to $90 USD) per night. Luxury five-star palace riads start around 1,800 MAD ($180 USD).
- Meals: A hearty bowl of spiced fava bean soup (bissara) with olive oil and fresh bread costs 8 to 15 MAD ($0.80 to $1.50 USD). A sit-down dinner of chicken tagine with salad and mint tea runs 70 to 120 MAD ($7 to $12 USD).
- Monuments: Entry tickets to Bou Inania Madrasa and Al-Attarine Madrasa cost 20 MAD ($2.00 USD) each. Looking over the Chouara Tannery from a shop terrace is technically free, though giving the attendant a 10 to 20 MAD tip is customary if you don't buy leather goods.
Plan your days with our trip planner.
Frequently asked questions
How many days should I spend in Fes?
Two to three full days is the sweet spot. Two days allows you to tour the major madrasas, tanneries, and artisans without feeling overwhelmed. Adding a third day gives you time to take a half-day excursion to the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the holy hilltop town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun.
What should I wear when walking through the medina?
Fes is a deeply traditional Islamic city. Both men and women should dress modestly to show cultural respect. Loose, breathable linen or cotton clothing covering your shoulders and knees is ideal. Comfortable closed-toe walking shoes are essential for navigating uneven stone steps.
Is Fes safe for solo female travelers?
Yes, violent crime in Fes is rare. However, solo female travelers often encounter persistent verbal street harassment or catcalling in the medina. Wearing sunglasses, walking with purpose, dressing conservatively, and ignoring unprompted greetings helps minimize unwanted interactions.
What is the best way to travel between Casablanca and Fes?
The ONCF rail system provides reliable and comfortable service. High-speed Al Boraq trains run between Casablanca, Tangier, and Kenitra, connecting to modern express trains that reach Fes Railway Station in about 3 hours and 30 minutes. First-class tickets cost around 180 to 220 MAD ($18 to $22 USD).
