Bandar Seri Begawan doesn't feel like a capital. There are no traffic jams, few tall buildings and almost no crowds, just gold domes, wide green lawns and a slow brown river.
That calm is the appeal. The things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan are mostly free or cheap, and because the old center is so compact, you can see the best of them in two unhurried days without ever needing a car.
Here are the sights that matter, with opening rules and prices as of October 2026. Most of them sit within a 20-minute walk of the waterfront.
Visiting the gold-domed Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is the city's landmark. Finished in 1958, it carries the name of the 28th Sultan, the father of today's ruler.
Its main dome is covered in gold, and the building rises 52 meters over the old town. The builders shipped in Italian marble, granite from Shanghai and stained glass from England.
The mosque stands in a man-made lagoon. On the water sits a stone copy of a 16th-century royal barge, once used for Quran reading contests.
Go back after dark if you can. The floodlit dome reflected in the lagoon is the best photo in Brunei.
Non-Muslims can visit outside prayer times, and entry is free. Cover your shoulders and knees, take your shoes off at the door, and borrow a robe if staff offer one. Women should cover their hair.
The biggest mosque, Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah
The Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque in Kiarong, about three kilometers from the center, is the largest in the country. It opened in 1994 to mark 25 years of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah's reign.
Count the domes: there are 29, one for each Sultan, since he's the 29th. Four minarets stand at the corners, and up to 5,000 people can pray inside at once.
Inside you'll find huge chandeliers, gold calligraphy and thick carpets. The Sultan even has his own entrance, complete with an escalator.
It's too far to walk comfortably in the heat. A ride on Dart, the local ride-hailing app, costs a few dollars.
What's inside the Royal Regalia Museum
The Royal Regalia Museum on Jalan Sultan tells the story of the monarchy. The star is a gold-covered chariot built for the coronation in 1968, ringed by life-sized figures of the royal guard.
Upstairs, you'll see jeweled daggers (keris), gold crowns and gifts from foreign leaders. It's more interesting than it sounds.
As of October 2026, the official museum listing gives these times and prices:
| Royal Regalia Museum | Details |
|---|---|
| Non-resident adult | BND 5 |
| Monday to Thursday, Saturday | 9 am to 5 pm |
| Sunday | 8:30 am to 4:30 pm |
| Friday | Closed |
Expect to take your shoes off and leave large bags at the counter.
Kampong Ayer, the water village
Across the river from the waterfront lies Kampong Ayer, a village of stilt houses that has stood here for hundreds of years. In 1521, Antonio Pigafetta, who sailed with Magellan, wrote about a whole city built over the water.
It isn't a museum piece. Families live here with electricity, piped water, schools, clinics and mosques, all linked by kilometers of wooden walkways.
Getting there is simple. Stand on a jetty along the waterfront and wave, and a small wooden water taxi will pull up within minutes.
- Crossing: As of October 2026, a quick hop over the river costs about BND 1 to 2.
- Private tour: An hour exploring the channels costs roughly BND 20 to 30. Agree the price first.
- Views: The Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery has a lookout tower, and from the top you'll see the gold dome of the old mosque across the river.
Ask for a late-afternoon trip into the mangroves if you'd like to see proboscis monkeys.
A walk along the waterfront
The riverside promenade is the nicest walk in the city, especially in the early evening when the heat drops and families come out to sit by the water. Start near the old mosque and follow the river past the cafés and the water taxi jetties.
You'll see the stilt village right across the water. Boatmen will call out to you as you pass, so it's easy to hop across on a whim.
The Tamu Kianggeh market sits a few minutes upriver. Go early in the morning, when stalls sell tropical fruit, rice cakes and jungle herbs you won't have seen before.
When to visit
Brunei is hot and humid all year, with daytime highs around 30°C. The wettest months are usually October to January, and February to April tends to be drier.
Ramadan changes the rhythm of the city. In 2027 it's expected to run from around 8 February to 9 March, and the palace open house usually follows in the first days after it ends.
You can map out your days with our trip planner.
How to get around Bandar Seri Begawan
Most families in Brunei own cars, so public transport is thin. The purple city buses charge a flat BND 1, but they don't run often. Brunei Tourism says the service runs from about 6 am to 8 pm.
Street taxis are rare. You'll mostly use Dart, which works like Grab or Uber with upfront prices.
As of October 2026, a Dart ride from the center to the Jame' Asr Mosque costs roughly BND 5 to 7. The airport is about 15 minutes from town.
Where to eat
Head to Gadong, a few kilometers from the center, for the city's best food. At the Gadong Night Market, nasi katok (fried chicken and sambal on rice), satay and grilled fish cost a dollar or two a plate.
In the old town, the Tamu Kianggeh market by the river sells fruit, snacks and local herbs in the morning. Try ambuyat, the sticky sago dish that's Brunei's national food, at least once. On Fridays, many stalls close for a while around midday prayers, so eat lunch early or late.
Rules and etiquette
Brunei is calm and friendly, but its laws are strict. GOV.UK's Brunei advice sets out the main points:
- Neither alcohol nor tobacco is on sale. If you're a non-Muslim of 17 or older, you can import a small quantity of alcohol for private use, as long as you declare it at customs.
- Every Friday, from noon until 2 pm, shops and restaurants shut for prayers.
- During Ramadan, don't eat, drink or smoke in public in daylight.
- Don't criticize the royal family. It causes real offense and can lead to legal action.
For a full three-day plan, see our Brunei itinerary. For costs, read is Brunei expensive.
Frequently asked questions
Is Bandar Seri Begawan safe?
Yes. The UK Foreign Office says crime levels are low, though petty theft and burglaries do happen. Take the usual care with your bag and phone.
Can tourists visit the Sultan's palace?
Only for three days after Ramadan ends, at the Hari Raya open house, when the doors of Istana Nurul Iman open to everyone. The rest of the year, you can see the gates from the road.
How many days do you need in Bandar Seri Begawan?
Two days covers the city. Add a third for a day trip to Ulu Temburong National Park, where a longboat ride and a canopy walk take you deep into Borneo's rainforest.
